My Mastersurf has electric curtains that don't work - anyone any idea how they work? I haven't had time to look at them yet, planned for the w/e! - (#97) Phil Jones, 2 May 01

Be honest do you really need power curtains? The time you need them is when you park up and want to keep the sun out (ah sun that brings back distant memories!). First you need to unhook the curtain stays and then manouvre the rear ones around the rear seats (if in the folded up position). So while you are there, why not simply slide them along the track?
Seriously, I used mine a lot last summer and have never used the power switch yet except to show off to friends who usually take the piss anyway. If you really want to fix them, check for the obvious like bad earth or pulled or broken wires. It's going to be a devil of a job tracing wires back from the centre console though. - (#99) Ian Dunse, 2 May 01

Fair comment Ian!Maybe I'll save that one for when I'm really bored out of my skull!! - (#100) Phil Jones, 2 May 01

Never mind electric curtains, my town ace came without any! We've got the tracks, but no curtains - anybody know where I can get some? And the top rail? Thanks! - (#291) Barry Powell, 14 Jun 01

Hi all, Does anyone know where the power to the rear elec. curtain is fed from? Was working, but now stopped.
I have power to the side curtains, but none to the rear.
Have checked all the main fuses & all ok. Are the side curtains fed from somewhere else? If so where?
Don't think the switch has packed up, but going to check that next, but it would be nice to know where the power is fed from, is a seperate fuse/breaker fitted or even a relay? Please can anybody help?! Or its going to be a nightmare trying to chase all those wires, thanks again,

Tony.

- (#6555) Tony Lloyd-Jones, 22 Dec 02

In the past it looks as if someone tugged off my console cover without reaching in and unplugging the curtain switch - wrecking the switch mechanism. As a result I did study the switch and wiring last summer, and found I could make all the curtains move but didn't go any further.
At the switch the side and rear curtains are all using the same power feed so I doubt they have separate fuse/breakers. At the rear both top and bottom rails contain motors so if both motors have stopped your fault is in their common wiring into the tailgate, or in the switch. As to which area to search first I would ask myself which area got disturbed most, recently. Otherwise the console cover is easy to remove so look there first. I have some notes that I made on the switch connections, email me and I'll dig them out.

- (#6556) Dave Mason, 23 Dec 02

Tony, have you put an AVO on the rear rail wiring to confirm you have no volts there, as Dave says, if you DO have no voltage there, then you probably have a broken wire from the switch, if there is no supply to the switch, then it must be between the fuse & switch, but I would then think the side curtains wouldn't work either. If you DO have voltage at the rear rails then I suspect you have dirty contacts on the rear rails, as you probably know, the rails are linear motors, so rely on the two tracks built into the rails to supply power to the coils in the 'shuttle' units, if there is any dirt on the tracks then the current will not flow into the coils on the shuttles. I find that periodically I have to squirt a dose of contact cleaner into the rails & run the cirtains back & forth a few times to clean up all the contacts, then they run smoothly again for a few months, switch/contact cleaner available from your local electrical shop, Maplin, RS or even some better motor factors keep it. Good Luck.HTH Rob.

- (#6557) Rob Drinkwater, 23 Dec 02

hi rob, thanks for your info, already proved no voltage at rear curtains with a dvm, but side curtains are getting a voltage. dave was right, they share the same power source, so looks like i've got a break from outgoing side of switch to rear connections - nightmare! did start to trace wires/fault just before xmas & there's voltage leaving the switch to a main connector block, then wires disappear under carpet & out under bus through a grommet, i think(haven't had a good look yet), still its something to keep me out of trouble just after xmas. if i do end up having to trace the whole wiring circuit, i will post all relevant info. etc to this site for archive. bound to help someone else in the future.
thanks again, merry xmas.

tony.



- (#6558) Tony Lloyd-Jones, 26 Dec 02

Not a serious comment I suppose but, what a boon my rear curtains are, operated from the drivers console, when that increasing number of drivers seem to want to burn the paint of the back of the vehicle in front, with about half a million watts of headlight and foglight power, all operating at the same time.

- (#6559) John Davis, 26 Dec 02

if you cant get them working then just get the mrs to open and shut them on your comand

- (#6560) Andy, 28 Dec 02

Hi to all the people that have commented on this thread. Just to let you all know, out of six curtain rails, I now have five working! One over the side/sliding door doesn't work - copper tracks too warped. The reason the rear rails weren't getting any power was that a connector at the rear of bus had come apart, now sorted. All the others had power, but just needed a good clean up with a switch cleaner.
Thanks again for all who helped.
Andy, your just jealous because you're CURTAINLESS!!
You can keep your 'stuck on' black windows.

Regards,

Tony.

- (#6561) Tony Lloyd-Jones, 29 Dec 02

What a wonderful web site. I wish I had come across it ages ago.
Has anyone investigated a fix for warped copper tape in the curtain tracks? None of mine have everworked and having been told by the importer that they were always the first thing to break down I have never seriously hoped to fix them. My tapes are so warped that the curtains are stiff even if you close them manually.
Anyone got any thoughts?


- (#7006) Frank Tierney, 1 Feb 03

There is a reliable cure for warped copper tracks. The process involves ultrasonic cleaning, controlled heat (to aneal the copper) and about 2 hours of careful disassembly/ reassembly of the magnets etc. If anyone requires info please email me for details. 6 'knackered' rails have been brought back to full spec by my process and the armatures now travel along the rails at breakneck speed when not fitted with curtains! I tried to compile a "how to" description but it is too complex to do without destroying the rails.
On another note, i'm still trying to get hold of a pair of electric REAR curtains (grey). Has anybody got a pair I could purchase?
Regards
Ray

- (#7007) Ray Ambler, 1 Feb 03