decided to remove my injector pump to get it calibrated (29mpg slightly low ) .contacted my local pump specialists who said if i removed it they could calibrate it on the test rig . removal is difficult there are lots of pipes and also a electrical plug (watch out for the sneaky rear pump bracket which means removing the starter motor ). when i tried to finally remove the pump from its shaft i discovered resistance . further checks revealed it is directly connected to the cam belt pulley with no intermediate shaft ..so it looks like the timing belt needs to be removed ..( finally my question ..has anyone changed the cam belt ..as it isnt like most engines ..it looks like i will have to remove the lower aliminium cover which houses the viscous fan and all the belts will have to come off too ..what a job ..also i dont have any timing info ..anyone done it ? - (#444) J Adgo, 5 Jul 01

Yes I've done it, not too bad. The only difficult bit is removing the crank pulley DO NOT under any circumstances use a leg-style puller, use only a puller that engages in the tapped holes in the pulley.
Timing (for turboD) is 0.67- 0.73mm @TDC, there is a small tdc mark on the crank pulley that matches a "pin" on the oil pump casting.
HTH - (#446) David Miller, 5 Jul 01

I recently replaced my crankshaft pulley and timing belt( 1992 2.0TD lite Ace). It seemed a horrendous task but actually it’s not that bad. Never having done this before the disassembley took about 2 to 2 1/2 hours and the re-assembly about 1 1/2 hours. For easy access-drivers seat out- 4 bolts-2 front –2 back then manipulate the seat out of it’s runner. Remove the drivers floor pan – a series of bolts around the outside. Remove the auto stick shift housing 4 star heads- 2 front 2 back I think and slide it over the gear stick . Disconnect the wiring connectors. Disconnect the brake cable- This can be fiddley. Remove the cable connected to the stick shift by prizing free the retaining clip. You should now be able to remove the entire drivers floor pan. All this takes about 45 minutes. You could probably replace the belt without doing this but I suspect you would need to be a contortionist. Remove the fan shroud – 1 bolt each corner I think. Remove the belts. If like my vehicle you have a plastic cowl covering the bottom of the engine in way of the bottom pulleys this needs removed for easier access. Remember to slacken the center bolt on the bottom belt tensionner and the bolt on the alternator tensionner ( best accessed with a universal socket extension piece ) Then slacken the mounting bolts and remove the belts. Remove the viscous fan bolts and fan blades. Remove the bolts surrounding the timing cover. As David suggests take care removing the crankshaft pulley ( mine fell off as it was loose- no problem there! ) Timing marks are as David indicated 1 at 3 o’clock on the cam shaft pulley, 1 on the pump and 1 as a v indicator on the crankshaft timing belt pulley. Be careful replacing the crankshaft pulley to ensure your key locates well into the slot in the crankshaft – lots of light and peeking behind the timing belt cover! Rebuild in reverse order. If I recall spanner / socket sizes required are 10,12,14.17,and 19. It’s a lot easier when you know what to do! Hope I covered everything. - (#453) stephen judge, 5 Jul 01