Can anyone tell me how to test the viscous fan coupling?
I am another who is having problems with overheating, the water leaving the system via the overflow bottle.
It only appears to happen when the weather is hot, a/c on, fully loaded and when travelling under load up hill.
I have a new thermostat, new rad cap and a new radiator, only thing left is the fan coupling although I believe that was replaced when I had a replacement engine fitted 12 months ago.
Anyone help??
Ta Phil - (#1041) Phil, 10 Sep 01

Sounds like a head gasket. Is yours 4x4? If so is the electric fan working? Does the aircon shut off if the engine overheats?
A quick test of the viscous clutch is to tie some thread. round one of the fan blades and attach it to the body. if the engine is cold, the fan should remain stationary when the engine is started. If the test is repeated with the engine hot, the thread should break.
Also try driving with the engine cover up- you might find that the fan stops at high revs.(you'll need to sustain cruising rpms for a while) - (#1044) David Miller, 10 Sep 01

as I have stated before I was looking for fan that work all the time and now I got one .
it is the same one that toyota have fited but I made some addition to it I drielled 4 hole in the casing it is made of aluminum and it is easy to drill I then got 4 bolt and nuts and tight it up now the
fan is on all the time the only draw back is it can be a bit noise some time but it keep the bus
cool at all time it is great .
Hope that may help some one - (#2016) bigmoe, 30 Jan 02

I just took apart the viscose fan assembly and noticed 2 holes had been drilled through by the previous owners? This would have turned the fan into a rigid fan had the bolts been in place. They were missing, just 2 holes for all the fluid to escape, making the fan pretty useless.
So does anyone know what effect if I make the fan rigid? (Big Moe?) If there is an adverse effect I am thinking short term rigid should be ok?
Where if needed can I get a replacement viscose fan assembly? Your comments will be very welcome. - (#2209) Harry Chrisna, 12 Feb 02

If you were to make the fan 'rigid' it would do several things,
1, The fan would be incredibly noisy, as it would now be spinning faster with engine revs.
2, Your fuel economy would get worse, as now you are wasting engine power 'dragging' air through the radiator unnecessarily.
3, The 'extra' air drawn through the radiator would probanly make the engine run 'cold' & less effeciently (especially at the time of year).
If I were you I would convert over to an electric fan as your viscous coupling has obviously had it. Either get a Kenlowe/Pacet kit, or a second hand electric fan off another car in a scrap yard. HTH regards Rob. - (#2212) Rob Drinkwater, 12 Feb 02

I'll second Rob's comments- I've done it myself, look at the writeup on
http://freespace.virgin.net/steve.ford_elliott/townace_contents.htm
David - (#2214) david miller, 13 Feb 02

Any ideas which vehicles carry an electric fan suitable and what would the hook up be?
I imagine this would have to hook up with a heat sensor, any idea on location and type of sensor?
Harry - (#2215) Harry Chrisna, 13 Feb 02

I used a fan from a Bluebird diesel, but as Rob says, just buy a Pacet kit. The come complete with a thermostat, or there is an electronic controller available from deemon tweeks - (#2216) david miller, 13 Feb 02

Harry
I've just had a new engine (Euro spec Camry) put in mine so if you still want a viscous fan you can have my old one (they had to use the one that came with the Camry block).
Reply via this or email direct, whichever you prefer. - (#2224) SteveFE, 14 Feb 02

Thank you to all for your advice on replacing the viscose fan.
I tried to replace the fluid in the coupling after repairing the holes but the fluid is not available. I am told it is a sealed unit? Not much that can go wrong in there, the coil at one end must contract or expand opening two holes that would allow the fluid to move around the channels. I am thinking if the viscous coupling does not work then as you have advised replace or go electric. Toyota wanted around 120 for the part.
I went electric, got a fan off a Rover, with a little adapting fitted it against the radiator. I do not need the cowling now which was cracked anyway.
So the question is how to hook it up to run?
I tried to locate Deemon Tweekes as David recommended for an electronic controller, no luck so far.
I am trying to keep my costs down and I suspect with a name like that it will be exspensive?
I had thought to take a common heat sensor, stick it on the engine next to the temp sensor near the starter with liquid metal. Then I imagine a relay would be needed to interface with the sensor and fan?
any ideas as I am not completely sure?
So far I am running with no fan, I took it for 15 miles on the motorway with no overheating! The new rad was well worth it. I dont plan any long journeys until it is fixed. - (#2323) Harry, 23 Feb 02

RS do a small thermostat, as used in coffee makers etc, that you could bond against the rad somewhere.Or there is a temp.indicator switch for a fiat that has the same thread as the sensors near the filler neck. If you fit it in that location, 105C is anbout the right temp. On the rad, about 90
www.deemon-tweeks.co.uk, IIRC - (#2325) david miller, 23 Feb 02