Any one help
Wife reversed off the driveway only to discover that the brake pedal was rock hard and wouldn't stop her. Luckily the hand brake still worked. All the ignition lights were also on although the engine was still running. The fluid is fully topped up and all the brakes have been recently replaced.
any ideas would be appreciated
Phil E - (#1118) Phil E, 22 Sep 01

I am relatively new to the vehicle (mine is a Masterace) but my thoughts would be to check that vacuum assistance is available. If your vehicle is a diesel, then the vacuum pump is, I think, mounted on the alternator drive, ie, in line and driven by the same pulley. Is the belt broken ? This would be indicated by the alt light staying on. Has a vacuum pipe come away from the pump ? No doubt others can throw more light on the problem but, I have tested the brakes on my vehicle, without the engine running, and you do need great effort on the pedal to give even a minimum of braking, as per your symptoms - (#1121) John Davis, 23 Sep 01

I have a problem can someone help when i got my townace itseams like who ever had it before tampered with the self adjuster some how itlooks like crossed/damaged the threads so when i came to change my shoes to de-adjust it locks the shoe onto the drum i tried loosing the h/brake to no effect even tried beating/forcing the spindle through the exam hole and can someone tell me if this self or slacken adjuster is a specialest part or is there an equivalent in the local shops or do i need the man from japan . - (#2657) winston, 6 Apr 02

You do know that one side has a L/H thread? - (#2659) david miller, 6 Apr 02

Hi,
Does anybody know where I can get a caliper repair kit for my 1988 Masterace.It is the dust covers I need desperatly as two of mine are split.
It's a 4x4 CR30 and the calipers are the twin piston type.Would they possibly be the same as the Spacecruiser?
Thanks.

- (#2940) Dave, 14 May 02

Hello Dave. I have not had to replace any of these items although I have just fitted pads etc and cleaned up the front brakes, calipers etc. I see from the Toyota CD that there is a service kit, part No 04479 for this, twin piston system. It includes the gaiters for the guide rods, piston seals and dust covers. It might be best to go to your local Toyota dealer and they might be able to cross reference re other models using this kit and, possibly, might have them in stock

- (#2943) John Davis, 15 May 02

i own a Master ace surf (d reg)petrol and my front brakes need replacing i have the part number (adt34223)and was wondering where i can get hold of some pads i live in manchester,i have tried one breakers in manchester but can not get a reply.are the pads easy to fit or do i need to go to a garage?

Tony

- (#6082) Tony Dutka, 9 Nov 02

Are you sure they aren't the same as the SpaceCruiser! Take them off and into a decent factors. They usually have pattern diagrams in the back of pad catalogues (Mintex certainly do).

- (#6083) Ian Dunse, 11 Nov 02

Tony,
Agree with what Ian suggests. To get them off car needs to be jacked up on a proper jack not the Toyota emergency one, with the wheel off. the caliper is secured with a single bolt which can be a very tight fit. Once undone and removed caliper swings up and out of the way you should see a hole where the bolt can be placed to hold it up there. Pads then easy to get out, springs should stay in place and only the anti-rattle shim come out. The piston will need to be pushed back a bit, watch the fluid level to ensure it does not over flow. New pads in and re assemble.
From your posting I'm not sure how mechanically capable you are, if you are at all concerned with the above do not do it, your life may depend on it!

- (#6110) clive, 11 Nov 02

sometimes when your driving it's okay but other times you can press the brake and it'sa as if there is none there. we thought do they need bleeding. Anyone any ideas?

- (#7480) shirley riley, 28 Feb 03

Ideas ? Yes, check and bleed the brakes TODAY. Tomorrow may be too late.

- (#7481) John Davis, 28 Feb 03

Shirley
John is absolutley right, and if your not completly sure about it get someone like ATS or your local tyre brakes exhaust place, they will usually check them for free.

NUKe

- (#7482) NUke, 28 Feb 03

I know this is slightly of the subject but having scoured this great website, have been unable to locate the answer to my problem.
I have just failed the mot on various minor things which i have repaired through your help, however one item i am stuck on is to do with the handbrakwe on the passenger side showing zero breaking.
I took off the brake drum and adjusted the adjustor to no avail, so i followed the part back to the end of the cable of the handbrake where this meets a pulley system which is meant to pull both cables leading to both rear wheels, however this does not happen on mine and the part twists to pull only on the drivers side. Anybody got any ideas please

- (#7836) Robert Gingell, 26 Mar 03

Robert,
You have located the pulley/lever system, ie, the equaliser where the effort, from the single handbrake cable, applies the pull to the two rear cables. Is the equaliser bar free to "rock" on it's pivot? My thoughts would be that the passenger side cable has lost it's anchorage,ie, it's outer sleeve is not located correctly at the rear of the drum. The system relies on each cable being tensioned so that an equal force is applied to both brakes. The CD has a good illustration of the layout and it would be no trouble to email a picture which might help you in checking the various moving, and anchored, items on the system

- (#7837) John Davis, 26 Mar 03

Robert,
Inner cable may have siezed, can it be moved by hand when disconnected? If not then replacement is the best option, you could try releasing it but how long before it stops again?

- (#7838) Clive, 27 Mar 03

Help!!!!!!!Where can I get brake shoes for my Greg townace?Halfords told me they could do them for £135 & as they were doing the MOT I told them to go ahead.I just went to collect it and was told that they ordered the wrong ones.They now say they dont think they can get them.

- (#8771) Graham Stratten, 28 May 03 11:35

no problems at all, look in ace answers, check the telephone number of your nearest adl blueprint company, and they will be able to supply. about £23 for a complete axle set, inc vat from this very helpful company, part no adt34108af

- (#8772) John Davis, 28 May 03 13:45

Just replaced my front brak pads.
The problem is it looks like the calaper is sticking
have tried to free it but no luck any one got one Driver side.
also can any one tell me what the warning light is that shows an oilcan with it looks like water under it
it in orange and is on the far right side of the dash.
Toyota Town ace 2.turbo d on a fplate
thanks

- (#10815) anthony, 23 Sep 03 14:49

The orange oil can is oil level. Usually comes on half way down the level indicator on the dipstick.

Checkout the archives for information re the sticking brake calliper. New ones are expensive if I remember correctly.

- (#10816) dave Bright, 23 Sep 03 14:54

If you have changed the pads the calipers must have moved. You can take it completly off the top spigot, clean it, it should have a chrome like shine, and put a squirt of copperease or the like on it. Refit the caliper and do the same with the bottom bolt. Should slide in and out now.

- (#10817) Clive, 23 Sep 03 16:56

Thanks for the info I found the info on the OIL.
but the brakes have cleand the caliper it slides ok on the spigot the problen is the drum the pushes on to the pad will not slide back it will push out but will not release there for the brake sticks.

- (#10818) anthony, 24 Sep 03 14:55

A lot of people remove the caliper piston and clean it up - result in 2 days time it sticks again. The problem is almost always water getting past the outer dust/moisture seal and then behind the main piston seal where it reacts with the ali and becomes larger due to the expanding effects of corrosion, thus compressing the seal and strangling the piston until it sticks. Remove it, and gently clean the seal groove. Check the dust seal, as thats where the water got in the first place and renew the brake fluid which absorbs moisture (hygroscopic) .. finally biuld it back up with some brake piston grease behind the dust/moisture seal (dont use normal grease , it will almost certainly sulk when it comes into contact with the brake fluid residues)> If the piston is corroded to any depth its scrap as it will tear the seal.
Jim

- (#10819) j adgo, 24 Sep 03 18:02

I have been trying to bleed rear brakes but always have air in brake line. Noticed brake fluid coming out of brake fluid resivor. I could really do with some advise what is causing problem.

- (#11004) Gordon Robinson, 3 Oct 03 18:14

Hello to one and all

i have a super extra td 4wd, there is a bad judder when braking. i have skimmed front disc, new pads still the same , bought replacement dics had these skimmed new pads but still the same ,3 times in all and no change,, even replaced tyres. had back drums skimmed but problem is at the front. back to the garage again yesterday, stripped and checked but couldnt find any thing wrong. did say there was a little play in the bearing but not enough to cause this much juddering. every thing else seems ok
any thoughts would be most welcome, please.
are the bearing available !! is there a part number for them
thanks
javed

- (#11604) javed, 12 Nov 03 5:05

Hi Javed
There is some info on the archives under transmission/breaks/break shudder. it suggest it could be related to the pad spring or anti rattle shims. Silly question here perhaps, but I take it you don't have ABS breaks?
- (#11605) dave Bright, 12 Nov 03 6:10

Hi dave.

thanks for emailing me back so quick. i did have a look at the archives Dave but apart from the pad springs there does'nt seem to be much else to go by. the pad springs are ok.
However ive just dismantled drivers side again in the hope of seening something and i noticed the inner bearing in the hub had a lot of play in it,,, although when i replaced the dics and tightened with nuts etc theres no movement in the disc at all !!
gratful for any more thoughts
thanks
javed
by the way what looks like a large cog on the inside of the cover for locking into 4WD came away from the spring ,, took me bloody ages to get it back on

- (#11606) Javed, 12 Nov 03 8:48

sorry meant to say no i dont have ABS

- (#11607) javed, 12 Nov 03 8:49

Is the judder at all speeds and all types of braking? Suggest you check balljoints and bushes (Famous old Sierra problem...) and check the rear drums for out of round too...

- (#11608) david miller, 12 Nov 03 8:59

Are the hubs getting hot inferring something sticking? Presumably all has been cleaned up during your disc change. Are the pads too tight in the lug recesses? Some aftermarket pads don't fit too well and I've had to file the lugs down in the past. The upshot is the pads might be grabbing and not releasing when you release pressure on the pedal. Are the pistons in the caliper moving freely and not rusted up?

- (#11609) Ian Dunse, 12 Nov 03 10:24

Hi every one

thanks for all you comments. DM. The judder is at all speeds !! when i brake driving slowly it almost feels like the gentle wobble of a warped tyre but when driving faster and braking the judder can be felt on th brake peddle and steering wheel.
The rear drums have been skimmed. the pads sit ok ! the pistons are moving freely with no signs of rust, and all ball joints and bushes were checked and seemed ok.
The only thing which i noticed was, after coming back from the garage i decided to dismaltle the drives side again, every thing appears ok accept the bearing in the hub has a lot of play in it ,, although there is no play in the disc when put back together ,, could this be the cause ??
thanks for your thoughts
javed

- (#11610) javed, 13 Nov 03 3:35

Yes play in the bearing would be noticeable as a rumble but you would notice it all the time. Not just when braking. Something worth fixing but I doubt that is your problem. Are your discs running true?

- (#11611) Ian Dunse, 13 Nov 03 3:43

WOW ian that was a quick reponse mate !!
I have 2 lots of discs skimmed 2 times each and although i was charged each time there was barely anything to take off. So i guess the discs should be ok!! cannt think of what else to look at
Is there a parts number for the hub bearing may be worth a try.
thanks ian

- (#11612) javed, 13 Nov 03 3:50

Javed

I doubt that your bearings will be worn, just need tightening up. Trouble is you are going to need a 54mm hubnut socket which are nigh on impossible to get in this country. There is a 55mm one you can get which may do the job. Check your e-mail for pics on what to do.

Ian

- (#11613) Ian Dunse, 13 Nov 03 4:23

Javed. You seem to have covered everything else and it may well be that your wheel bearings are the cause of the judder. It's worth taking them apart, re-greasing and torquing them up correctly. Ian kindly supplied me with some email attachments showing the dismantling and toquing procedure when I did my wheel bearings, and I fabricated the socket. You are welcome to borrow it as it can easily be posted.

- (#11614) John Davis, 13 Nov 03 8:30

I have felt judder when braking caused by wheel bearings, though not in a Townace, and caused by wear rather than just too much play. The stress is different during braking (or steering) and I'd expect this to be especially noticeable on a non-driven wheel.
See Ace Answers - Reference (button on left, has page of Links) and "Repair front wheel bearings" - especially if you need to remove the 4WD hubs. Those big 54mm AF locknuts are not very tight, they're also secured by tab washers buried in the grease. A socket would've been serious overkill for me, multigrip pliers were all I needed to take up the play, could almost have done it with my fingers. Given that you have to go to the nearest flat to lock the tab washer it was pretty obvious how tight to make it without using a torque wrench. Agreed it might be different if you've had the bearing out and have to pull everything together again.

- (#11790) Dave Mason (Sussex), 14 Nov 03 6:47

Hmm I beg to differ on that one Dave. I spent many an hour this summer, playing around trying to get the adjustment right, using a hammer and punch to turn the nut. Couldn't get it right and I got sick to death of dismantling and reassembling those damn cone washers. Bear in mind that there are two flat nuts. The outer one acting as a locknut. Both are held in place by bending the tabs on the intermediate washer. Just tightening the outer one aint gonna do much.

Finally John Davis kindly put me out of my misery by lending me his home-made socket. The preload torque is 43 ft/lb and the final adjustment is 11 ft/lb. Try achieving that with a pair of pliers!

- (#11791) Ian Dunse, 14 Nov 03 7:35

I know we've discussed this one before, Ian, but I'll side with Dave on this. The locknut can and will preload the adjusting nut on it's threads. But regardless, a little play is good.
Now Suzuki on the other hand have a double taper roller with a single outer and split inner race. Strippable for regreasing, but no adjustment required :-)

None of this helps Javed of course. Javed, i know you've had the discs skimmed etc, but have you checked them for truth ON THE VEHICLE? One of the hubs could be bent, for example, pulling the disc out of true when bolted up. Could also cause disc thickness variation (DTV...)
Only running a dial gauge over the discs IN SITU can confirm this...

- (#11792) david miller, 14 Nov 03 10:59

A bit of muck/corrosion etc. on the mating surface may also cause this - make sure the surface you are attatching discs to is scrupulously clean and flat

- (#11793) chris turner, 15 Nov 03 9:26

Thank you all for your thoughts ,, still not sorted.
and yes the discs are running true checked at garage but still cannt figure out the cause. i still have to drive the townie so i may just have to replace every thing in the hope it might get rid of what ever the problem is. by the way i was reffering to the inner bearing in the hub which has a lot of play in it not the cone shaped one that sits behind the two large nuts.
thanks again

- (#11858) javed, 18 Nov 03 20:31

That inner bearing is only for the driveshaft. Nothing to worry about.
Running out of ideas now... I really don't think it's brakes. The tyres have been checked for out of round I presume, but any chance one of them is starting to break up?
And what about the propshaft- any chance one of it's UJs is failing?

- (#11859) david miller, 19 Nov 03 2:40

Javed,
A couple of thoughts that may have been overlooked.
The point about anti rattle shims, locating springs and the ones between the pads if fitted, has not been answered. Are they all present and have you the correct pads for the caliper?
Is there any wear on the caliper slide bushing?

- (#11860) Clive (Bristol), 19 Nov 03 2:50

If you have tried all the usual fixes, and it hasn't cured the problem, then the cause is likely to be something unusual. This could be anything from a faulty servo, Load sensing valve, calliper cylinder, or any master or slave cylinder, to contaminated brake fluid.
- (#11861) dave Bright, 19 Nov 03 3:39