Significant leak has suddenly developed on my Townace TD. Apparently from the top of the fuel pump around the throttle lever spindle, though I can't see right in there. About one drip every 3 seconds. Also I now sometimes get very rough starting - perhaps air leaking back in?
Is there some sort of repair kit to seek out, to replace an O-ring or something? Any tips on getting at the top of the pump in that area - or not? - (#1410) Dave Mason, 10 Nov 01

Sounds like the seal on the throttle spindle OK- an "O"ring and a lipped seal, IIRC. The top of the pump comes off reasonably easily, you might be able to remove the seal in situ, but putting the return springs back on is a horrendous job.
Best take it to your local diesel specialist, and get him to replace the top cover gasket at the same time, they tend to start leaking at 80K miles and above.
HTH - (#1412) David Miller, 11 Nov 01

Nov 11th I posted this problem with my '91 TD Auto Townace. Fuel leaking from where the "throttle" lever spindle comes through the top of the injector pump.
This area deserves a "don't try this at home" caution but I did, with the help of the Toyota RM025E engine manual and a couple of neighbours who'd done this sort of thing before. My experience may be of some help, even if you're not delving in that far.
Auto Marine Diesel Specialists in Hove (01273 415296) recognised this as a common problem on imports - the seal dries out while the vehicle is unused - and would have done the job. However I chose to buy the O-ring and cover seal (they sold me 2 types) for a nominal £1.
2 screws hold the black plastic switch that stops the aircon when you floor the throttle. Its position is adjustable so spots of paint go on first to line it up against the boost diaphragm cover. The way the switch works is obvious once it's off though mine doesn't make an audible click (maybe it's dead) and to replace it you need a stiff wire hook to hold the switch rotor in position to engage the pin on the throttle lever.
An Allen key removes the 3 bolts (typically Toyota tight) holding the bracket which support the aircon switch and then you can get at the throttle lever.
A single nut holds the throttle lever which is in two parts held together with what appears to be an adjusting screw. However a "pip" on one part fits in a hole on the other so there is in fact no adjustment. The top part of the lever engages the splines on the throttle spindle - top lever and spindle have lines to assist positioning. The lower part of the lever attaches the cables, hits the stops and has 2 springs which leap off when you remove the lever. To refit the springs I made another stiff wire jig to fit over the lever and pre-tension the toughest spring. I found it easier to replace the levers separately - sort out the springs first, then worry about lining up the splines. First time we were so busy with the springs we got it one spline "wrong" and so I got practice at stripping it all down again.
Beyond this I did not actually do myself but it seemed quite straightforward to remove the idle-up stuff from the side of the pump and then remove the pump top - leaving the throttle spindle behind. A thin washer from around the spindle lifted off, stuck lightly with fuel to the pump top. The O-ring is easy to replace. The cover seal was the same length as the 2 supplied but a different profile and in good condition so we didn't change it.
The RM025E says remove the boost diaphragm as the first stage of dismantling. This does not appear to be necessary but it is easier to replace the pump top if the main ("MOT") fuel control (slothead) screw is completely removed from the rear of the pump. It has a (12mmAF?) locknut and sleeve which help re-position it later.
In fact we followed RM025E, took off the boost diaphragm and, worse, only noticed later that we should have marked its rotational position. The profile towards the bottom of the rod under the diaphragm is ground eccentrically so rotating it is serious (I vouch). RM025E says adjust it to get an 11mm measurement via an access hole but this didn't work - could only get 8.5 to 9.5, must be a variant of the design. Fortunately the pin had made a visible mark on the rod over 10 years and enabled accurate re-setting - moral
mark the position of the diaphragm. However dismantling it was instructive and gave me, new to diesel, a lot of confidence for adjusting by trial the diaphragm, off-boost stop, main fuel screw and kick-down cable. - (#1546) Dave Mason, 3 Dec 01

Glad to see you got sorted, dave. Re the "switch" for the aircon, it's actually a variable resistor, and doesn't click. But if you turn on the ign., turn on the aircon, and slowly depress the throttle, you'll hear the aircon clutch disengage at around 3/4 throttle. That point is adjustable. - (#1548) david miller, 3 Dec 01