Hope some one can help me with this problem, 1989 Toyota Towace 4WD 2.0TD. Just recently I have been suffering from flat battery syndrome, I have disconnected the radio but I am unable to turn the ignition key all the way back to the off position, instead I have to turn it to the accs position and remove the key, this leaves th clock illuminated but by my reckoning this is not enough to drain the battery therefore does any body have any ideas as to which other circuits are live? As you are all aware the fuse box is not exactly accesible(also I dont know which fuses serve which components) so I havent tried to test that way. I have had the battery tested and the charging circuit tested and both are A ok. Any ideas? The battery lasts approx 5 days after a recharge before being to flat to start the car.
Any help greatly appreciated!!!!
Steve - (#1750) Steve, 31 Dec 01

The accessories circuit you're ignition switch is stuck on should only power the stereo, cigarette lighter and clock. This shouldn't be enough to drain your battery to the extent you speak of unless the faulty ignition switch is powering other circuits by mistake. Is your alternator charging? Without the indicators on the dash to show a faulty alternator, do your headlights brighten when you rev it up at night. I would suggest you change the ignition switch asap to see if that solves the problem initially. - (#1752) Mark, 31 Dec 01

Steve,
As you know, the key should be very difficult to remove if it does not return to the "off" position. You say that you remove it while the acc circuit is still live. Could there be a fairly heavy cicuit, which gets activated when you pull the key out, which is draining away the power? Has the rear fog light, or any other accessory, been wired directly and not isolated by the ignition/acc switch, as I found on my Masterace, which may be receiving a small amount of current ? I agree also that your faulty ignition switch needs some attention before you start delving too far. However, you could test by disconnecting a battery terminal overnight. If the battery stays charged, a test meter, connected to the battery, when re-connected and the key is removed, should show the current drain and then it is a process of elimination. As advised, the headlight test will show if the alternator is doing it's job but, you need to check if the current generated is "picking" up the battery. Alternators are not my speciality but, when it was tested, was there any hint of current flow, back through the alternator, indicating a faulty internal component. (Diode ?) - (#1753) John Davis, 31 Dec 01

Steve, as the other guys have said, you really need to get to the root of your problem, the reason you can't get the switch back to 'off' is that there is a small solenoid on top of the ignition switch that prevents the key from being turned back beyond 'acc' until the gear lever is back in the 'p' position, if you have returned the gear lever to 'p' and you still can't get the lock back beyond 'acc' then you have an interlink fault, be careful though, you could buy a new ignition switch and still have the same problem, if say the wiring is faulty, or the switch on the gear lever is faulty.To test if the solenoid on the ign switch is working, switch the ignition to on, but don't start the engine, press the release button on the side of the gear lever and you should be able to hear the solenoid on the steering column click. As regards leaving the ignition in the 'acc' position, this would certainly power the clock as well as the radio etc, even switching the radio off the clock will consume quite a bit of power as it is an LED clock, hence it turns off with the ignition, and works 'in the background' unlike the LCD type clocks in other vehicles that consume very little energy, but do need a backlight. So yes after a few days the clock would drain the battery. HTH Regards, Rob. - (#1759) Rob Drinkwater, 1 Jan 02

On my towneace you have to hold down a small button on top of the steering column as you turn the key into the lock position. Unfortunately, as my lock was worn and the key could be removed in the acc position, I did not at first realise this, and, like you, ended up with a flat battery after a few days. - (#1766) ray eaton, 2 Jan 02

Ray how did you cure the problem? New switch or did you fix the origional?
Steve - (#1775) Steve, 2 Jan 02

Further to this, I've been having probs with mine on & off with the cold snaps... New Years Day it wouldn't even turn over. After much swearing, finally got to the stage where all I could get was relays/solenoids clicking in & out, even with a jump start. Gave up for the day and put battery on charge overnight, back together the next day and fired up first time, no problem.
Got to thinking about this now I'm back at work and discussed with one of my more car knowledgeable colleagues - the battery I have is small compared to the size of the compartment. I think, being a diesel that it should have a heavy duty battery and that a 'normal' car battery is not really man enough for our beasties. My mate agrees on this. So the next task is to nick my wife's heavy duty battery from her stables..... - (#1799) Phil Jones, 4 Jan 02

Standard battery is 90 or 95Ah - (#1810) david miller, 4 Jan 02

I phoned around to see if I could get the ignition lock replaced. The quote I got from a mobile auto electrician was £200 to recondition & beyond a reasonable price to have a new one fitted. If I could have removed the lock & take to a shop I was quoted £20 for a repair. Unfortunately I do not have the technical knowhow to do that. To be honest I have just learned to live with the problem. - (#1835) ray eaton, 7 Jan 02

Managed to get the ignition switch to turn to the off position so i will try that for a few days to see if there is any improvement, before i delve into it any further.
Thanks for the help. I will keep you posted as to how I get on
Steve - (#1875) Steve, 12 Jan 02

phil,
i had a similar problem, engine wouldn't even turn over slowly, just clicks even with jump start. after stripping starter motor off to clean connections, and swapping battery, traced fault to dirty, (corroded), battery connector causing too much voltage drop to energise starter. replaced this...perfect starting! :-) - (#1881) eddie arrowsmith, 15 Jan 02