I have a 1994 2.2 Super Extra and when I bought it the central locking did not work. Bullivants of Derby, where I bought the car, replaced some part and it all worked including the remote key lock. The central locking still works on the door switch but the remote on the key has ceased to function. The battery in the key has been changed and the its operation is OK. Any ideas? Is there a fuse that anyone knows of or any other ideas to sort this out. Thanks - (#1909) George Lothian, 19 Jan 02

Has the battery been disconnected from the bus? if so, there's usually a "learning procedure" to match the remote to the receiver. In mine, it's disconnect and reconnect the supply until the lights flash multiple times. Press the lock button on each remote, followd by the unlock button of one.
There's a fuse in the supply to the receiver, wherever that's mounted. - (#1910) david miller, 20 Jan 02

Does anyone know if a 92 Liteace should have remote central locking? If so what can I do to get a remote sender. If not what would be involved in fitting it, if that is at all possible. I find it a real pain to have to thread the key into the lock every time you want into the vehicle. Im to used to vehicles which have remote locking.
Of course I could always leave it unlocked !!! - (#1968) stephen judge, 26 Jan 02

Not as standard, although kits are easy to get. Try L.A. Distribution(Greenaways) on the Beersbridge road. Kit's around £60 IIRC, not too bad to fit.
David - (#1969) david miller, 27 Jan 02

Thanks david, I'll check them out. - (#1974) stephenjudge, 27 Jan 02

I recently purchased a kit from a company in Germany called Neptronics, the kit is a Gamma G301, for my 1991 Townace SuperExtra 2.0 TD. IN the abscence of a decent wiring diagram (for the townie, I have the one for the unit) I wonder if any acers have either fitted a similar device. Can Help point me inthe direction of the right wires. My thoughts on purchasing the said unit were to use it to mimic the switch on the drivers door. Is this a simple switch which supplies twelve Volts to the Door control unit. How do I identify the central locking control unit. Another wire I need to identify is a 12v supplly when the ignition is on any ideas for the best one to pick here.

On the fues panel I have 7.5 amp for something called the dome what is this?

All help will be greatly appreciated.

- (#7330) NUKe, 25 Feb 03

Remove the drivers door panel, this will give you acess to the CL switch should be easy to workout what does what (a simple make and break arrangement), and trace it back to a suitable point for installation. Dunno it the drivers door solenoid is the control suspect it is). The Dome fuse does interior lights among other things.

- (#7331) Clive, 25 Feb 03

driver's door motor has no switch. On mine anyway, there's no locking controller that you'd normally expect, the switch connects directly to the motors.
I fitted a Microscan unit, similar I'm sure, and found that just tapping into the wiring could result in a burnt out controller. You'll need to wire one through the other in the same way as a passenger side electric window is configured (both switches need to changeover). The present switch takes both sides of the motors to ground when idle, BTW

You could also add a couple of extra relays to do it...

- (#7332) david miller, 25 Feb 03

David and Clive thanks for the input from What I can make out the box contains the relays. and is simply a way of pulsing the circuit, If you are interested then the instruction Manual is on lie at the included link in PDF format.

NUKe

- (#7413) NUKe, 25 Feb 03

I'll have a look at that later, but for now the problem stems from the fact that the relays in the remote unit both close to earth when idle, just like the switch. Operating either will result in an overcurrent situation in the other...

- (#7414) david miller, 25 Feb 03

doh. link's disappeared...

- (#7415) david miller, 25 Feb 03

Ah, I remeber this problem well, remember when the alarm installers buggered up my door switch. You can do one of two things here, either disconnect the door switch & connect IN PLACE of it & use your controller, or wire in a pair of relays that do the opposite of the controller you have bought, in other words the controller switches closed to earth then the relays open & control the locking. Only way to keep the switch I think. Eventually I got the alarm installer to wire in a pair of relays to do this & keep the door switch. HTH Rob.

- (#7416) Rob Drinkwater, 25 Feb 03

David
my understanding from the diagram is that they go open circuit from the diagram . the link is probably removed as it a commercial site link. If you do wish to have a look email me direct and I pass it onto you the company is Neptronics and they are german .de


NUKe

- (#7417) NUKe, 25 Feb 03

I think I need to get the panels off and have a look it would appear from your descriptions the switch does not work as I would expect.

I thought it was simply rocker which either put a curent across the close or shut on the locks, when depressed for or aft. OH for a circuit diagram. In answer to Rob idea I could live without the switch. however that seems to come with its own problems. I will map this out when I get to the bottom of it.

NUKe

- (#7418) NUKe, 25 Feb 03

Personally I wouldn't 'live without the switch' it is a useful safety feature of the Townie. Our Townie has the alarm set up so that it locks the doors on start up & unlocks at switch off, this way the kids are protected, if you remove the switch functionality you won't be able to 'lock em in'once the vehicle is open, or unlock if you have this type of feature set up, this is why I insisted the auto electrical company that fitted our CAT 1 alarm got the switch working & the remote locking etc, one without the other is useless. Besides which even if you don't mind having the vehicle unlocked all the time you're driving it, that annoying red 'open door' light would be on all the time. Regards Rob.

- (#7419) Rob Drinkwater, 25 Feb 03

just a point while trying to wire up a similar unit, the switching pulse for the central locking is a negative pulse not a positive one.
I got an auto electrician to sort mine out it was doing my head in

have fun

kev

- (#7420) kev, 25 Feb 03

Kev
hats fits in with the diagram inthe setup manual so if that is the case then its nots a problem. Having said that I might do the same as yourself I was told last night of a mobile auto electrician who comes highly recomended.

Once again thanks guys for the input.

NUKe

- (#7421) NUKe, 26 Feb 03

I have had my Master surf ace two years and fitted a Halfords alarm with door remote and it has worked fine ever since. It is connected to the door remote relay under the dash on right hand side. the only problem I had was that at first I did'nt solder the connections and had a few false door settings.The power supply is taken from main feed at ignition switch.If you would like the wiring code I wrote it down and can Email it to anyone intersted

- (#7422) phil perry, 26 Feb 03

Phil What a splendid Chap you are I would Love a copy of this and will e-mail you separately.

- (#7423) NUKe, 27 Feb 03