Can anyone tell me whether it is advisable to use any kind of underbody seal on these machines. As they are imported I just wondered whether this might not have already been done?
Cheers
Andrew.
- (#3237) Andrew Hornung, 3 Jun 02
I can say yes have it done.
In Japan they do not use salt on the roads.
If you have just bought the Townace all the more reason.
I bought mine when it had only been in the country 2 days hence not even on the road.
I had to wait approx 3-4 weeks for it to be ready so it was wax oil underseal as part of conversion work etc.
The cost was £80 very messy job let someone else do it.
Hope this helps. Phil
- (#3238) phil, 3 Jun 02
Thanks for the reply Phil. Yes I will certainly get this done now.
Cheers
Andrew.
- (#3243) Andrew, 5 Jun 02
just done mine this weekend! borrowed a pressure wash on friday night, got VERY wet!!!
5l waxoil 3hours underneath bus on sunday afternoon with spray gun!
v.messy job and smelly, (can't stand the smell of waxoil!). squirted everything i could see.
also useful excercise in finding what goes on underneath for any future ( hopefully rare) repairs!
i can now rest assured she won't rot on me!
ttfn. Ed.
- (#3747) eddie arrowsmith, 10 Jul 02
Eddie. This is a job which I have decided to do before the summer (what summer ?) is over. I have a pressure washer and will wait for a good drying day to get this done. Halford's staff (most helpful) outlined the Waxoyl process but, were not sure about it's spraying characteristics. Did you spray with compressed air or, did you use the wrist breaking "pump" type gun which Waxoyl produce ? My little diaphragm compressor puts out about 35 psi with not a lot of volume. Can you advise if Waxoyl is "sprayable", especially if it's heated, with a conventional spray gun or the atomising type, ie, air over a venturi tube into the container. Any advice much appreciated.
- (#3751) John Davis, 11 Jul 02
John
Heat it up and dilute with white spirit as per instructions and you can spray with a cheapo plant demister. I used two on mine about a quid each from B&Q etc. It's a messy job and one thing less to clean so at that price you can bin it afterwards. BTW - not as cracked up as it proposes to be IMO. I'm getting corrosion on cross members and water pipes despite waxoyling twice in successive years.
Ian
- (#3759) Ian Dunse, 11 Jul 02
In my experience, Waxoyl is best for protected box- sections as a water repellent sealant. For exposed surfaces, you really need something tough. It's a good penetrant/ lubricant though- handy for disassembly esp. if you thin it well...
- (#3764) david miller, 11 Jul 02
I used Waxoyl in box sections, in the sills, doors and anywhere where you could get a probe in i.e. removed the door light switches and had a squirt in there. The sills were my main target as these rotted on my Spacecruiser, along with the back door.
I then used underbody seal (black tar) made by Waxoyl and put on by brush, with Waxoyl on any bits I did not want lost hand brake for example. The last bit was the heavy duty wheel arch stuff in the wheel arch, this was a spray can and was the hardest to get right. Took a day, ruin anything I was wearing but I think was well worth it. It was around £50 for the stuff and I still have a fair bit left.
- (#3769) clive, 12 Jul 02
Yup, I use Hammerite stonechip protect on the arches and redo it each summer. The grey looks nice when it's clean...
- (#3771) david miller, 12 Jul 02
used compressed air @ fairly low pressure (50PSI). diluted waxoil with white spirit and transferred into empty schultz can to use my spray gun. sprayed fine. you would probably get away with 35 psi.
btw, used waxoil on advice from a friend who owns a bodyshop. says underseal causes metal to sweat and forms condensation between metal and paint...and rot!
he says on new panels he would use cavity wax, but advised waxoil on older panels as the rust inhibitor would stop any already forming!
reckons redo every couple of years.
- (#3789) eddie arrowsmith, 13 Jul 02
Hi all,
thanks to all who responded to my last questions. Another one now - does anyone know how to get into the front clear perspex panel on a Townace. The one between the headlamps with the Toyota emblem on? I am thinking about putting a low wattage running lamp in there just for novelty value. Has anyone else tried this and does anyone have any tips/comments on it?
Thanks all
Bye
Andrew
- (#3819) Andrew Hornung, 15 Jul 02
Andrew,
Already covered a few threads ago, have a look down for
Front Plastic Trim. You should have started a new thread, when these get placed on Townace.com an important bit of info may get lodged under the wrong area - "name in lights" under "undersealing" . If you mean lighting up the Toyota name there is a small drain/vent that could take a diode type bulb. Raise a new thread and let us know how it looks.
- (#3820) clive, 15 Jul 02
You mean the fog lamps? Two long bolts with philips heads. Remove them then pull the whole unit down and out. Access to bulbs can then be seen.
You would have been better posting this as a new thread for better visibility and to make it easier to categorise on ACEAnswers.
Ian
- (#3821) Ian Dunse, 15 Jul 02
Or read Tony's thread from a few days ago
- (#3822) david miller, 15 Jul 02
I stand corrected - 3 screws. Well it's been at least 3 months since I tinkered with mine, must have lost 000s of brain cells since then!
- (#3824) Ian Dunse, 15 Jul 02
Yes, one of the first things I did, drilled two equidistant holes in the back of the trim, between the foglamps & inserted two bulb holders, each having a 5watt bulb in, this lights up the TOYOTA nicely, and gives a forward facing sidelight affair, be careful though, the swarfe from drilling the plastic will fall inside the lamp unit, cleaned mine out by blowing out with water & then leaving to dry for some time to make sure not at all moist. Easy to hook a wire into the amber sidelight wiring as well. Regards Rob.
- (#3832) Rob Drinkwater, 15 Jul 02