(Home) Water pump removal and finding leaks

anyone changed a water pump, 2.0td 2ct engine.
i am losing water, slowly, and the pump is a little noisy, though only noticable with the seat up.
i am thinking of changing the pump if i can't find any leaks, is it easy? i have the 2ct engine manual and it looks easy enough, but looks can be deceiving!! any tips?

- (#3419) eddie arrowsmith, 17 Jun 02

As you will have noticed already, the water pump is driven off the back of the timing belt, to get at all this you need to remove the driver's floor (see Townace.com for details) then the fan etc to get at the timing belt covers, top & bottom cover are plastic, centre is the metal piece that the fan pulley bearing is attached to, once removed the pump is easy to get at, obviously change the timing belt at the same time. I would also advise getting all the kit you need and converting to electric fan on the vertical radiator at the same time, as you have all the bits off the car (fan, viscous coupling, cowling etc) to aid correct temperatur, see my earlier posts on this subject. HTH Rob.

- (#3430) Rob Drinkwater, 18 Jun 02

thanks rob!
didn't think of changing timing belt at same time, not a bad idea.
i'm monitoring the situation at the moment, still not sure if it is the pump, doesn't seem to be losing enough. may cheat and go with a bottle of radweld or similar!
was considering changing to elctric fan, but going to put it off until next year as temp seems ok, (below half), and she's got me decorating the house this year :-(
don't suppose you took any photo's showing brackets you knocked up, etc?

- (#3447) eddie arrowsmith, 19 Jun 02

Sorry, didn't have digital camera to hand when doing the job, I made up two angle brackets that go onto the top mountings on the radiator (used to hold the cowling on) the cowling originally dropped into a slot at the bottom of the rad, so made a bracket the right height to get into the slot, then another long bracket to put between the two top mounts, the rad fan then drops into the bottom slot & then bolts to the newly created top rail. Wiring was from the constant live side of the starter solenoid, heavy (30amp) cable via a fuse then direct to the fan, earth was via a relay to an earthing point, the relay is then switched by a Kenlowe variable temperature switch in the top hose, this can be varied as to the cut in temp, this then switches the relay via earth to cut fan in & out. HTH Rob. (P.S. possibly about 8hp or so increase by losing viscous fan, as well as the improved economy)

- (#3459) Rob Drinkwater, 20 Jun 02

Don't use RADWELD, clogs up the radiator, use WYNNS RADIATOR STOP LEAK, go to a factor & get the one in the white tin (Professional range product), don't buy the one in the blue tin (DIY product for the retail shops, Halfords etc) this is much better & doesn't clog the rad, essential for these under cooled vehicles, also buy the FLUSH additive & then flush the system out & back flush it, then put clean water & antifreeze (50%) in with the stop leak additive, hopefully this will work without the strip down. Incidentally, how many miles ot Km has yours done, if it's near belt time, then it might be wot#rth doing all of the changes anyway, I did our belt @ 80,000Km (50,000 miles) to be safe, Toyota recommend 100,000Km (62,000 miles) but I wouldn't leave the belt that long, look at the recent posts & some poor sod lost their belt @ 85,000Km, remember they rev the nuts off the diesel to do the smoke test @ the MOT, so a good belt & recent oil change is imperative. HTH Rob.

- (#3461) Rob Drinkwater, 20 Jun 02

ooooops!! just put the radweld in yesterday!!
well, i'll flush the system soon and use wynnes.
btw. i've noticed, i need to top up water into engine even though expansion bottle still full. any ideas, recently replaced rad cap.
thanks.

- (#3707) eddie arrowsmith, 8 Jul 02

Did you use the PROPER rad cap?

- (#3715) david miller, 9 Jul 02

Eddie,
How much do you need to top up? Are there any wet patches under? Have you run the engine with the rad cap off to spot bubbles? You says the expansion bottle is full, is that overflowing?
I had a leak from the thermostat housing that was so fine that it was evaporating, only managed to find it in the dark with a torch.

- (#3716) clive, 9 Jul 02

yep, went to toyota dealer quoted part number gleaned from bok. paid main agent price ;-(

need to top up 250ml every couple weeks, not a lot. no sign of bubbles or other indication of overpressure in system, ie head gasket gone. don't think system overflowing into expansion bottle, when i say full i mean to max line, not to top.
starting to think it is a little leak which is evaporating, found a small water mark on a pipe under drivers chair, (it couldn't have been under passenger chair could it!!) but i'm still confused as to why it's not drawing back from bottle. could it be easier to suck air back through leak and that is why it is not draining bottle?
btw thanks for help so far!
eddie.

- (#3728) eddie arrowsmith, 9 Jul 02

Eddie
I had same symtoms. It finally turned out to be a misplaced hose clip on one of the water pipes to the turbo. The water loss only occurred at high revs and it was immediately vapourised by the very hot turbo casing. There was NEVER any water leaking down to the floor, only stains in the local area under the drivers seat. You can see and reach the turbo hoses from the passengers side,just.
Ray A

- (#3732) Ray Ambler, 9 Jul 02

Eddie, it's the air leak that's the problem. Especially with the small nissan rad cap, the system has to pull a fair vacuum befor the valve opens. If a leak stops the vacuum from occurring, you'll need to top up. Gravity doesn't help us (unless you can find a way of getting the expansion bottle higher than the filler neck...)

- (#3737) david miller, 10 Jul 02

thanks for the help folks!
i've finally found the leak. decided to take drivers chair etc out tonight to check pipes. on a whim took cowl off radiator, guess what? it was wet!!
i'm going to start a new thread in case this gets missed, but i have three questions...
exactly how good is wynns radiator stop leak?
where can i get a rad?
and... how much??
it couldn't have been a loose pipe could it? :-(

- (#3791) eddie arrowsmith, 13 Jul 02