just done a round trip of approx 2400kms going from Bristol to Scotland, Our 93yr 2.0 td super extra coped really well loaded up with luggage and 3 kids. on returning back home to Bristol I noticed diesel dripping from the pump, today I have replace three `o` rings, 1 on the inside of pump behind flat plate secured with 2 allen bolts, 1 directly opposite on outside of pump, housing a spring loaded plunger, and 1 behind a coolant temp sensative plunger that regulates cold start idle speed (I assume). The main leak has stopped, but there is still a small trickle from the back of the pump which is noticable on startup but stops as the engine warms up, any help would be appreciated. Also, are the cyl head bolts "stretch bolts" on a 2CT. thanks Barry

- (#5933) Barry Powell, 25 Oct 02

Barry, the head bolts are TTY (stretch)and re. your leak, choose from:
top cover seal, throttle shaft seal, shutoff solenoid seal, and distributive head "o"ring.
I'm presuming you've checked the tightness of the injection pipes and the timing plug in the centre of the pump head.

I'd go with the top cover gasket, though, it's a common problem.
What miles do you have up, and have you ever run biodiesel or veggie oil in it?

- (#5934) david miller, 26 Oct 02

thanks for the quick reply David, I`ll be checking today. Speedo reading is 179800km and still running fine apart from the odd puff of black smoke when accelerating hard (normal)as for oil i`m using Valvoline semi synthetic but not sure of its history.
Barry
- (#5935) Barry Powell, 26 Oct 02

At that mileage, it'll be the top cover seal...

- (#5936) david miller, 26 Oct 02

My local diesel expert had trouble with my leaking fuel pump, he replaced one seal after another each time the fuel found the next weakest point. So had to remove the pump and rebuild, every seal was badly perished. He had never seen a pump like this in over 20 year. He can only suggest jap diesel is different from ours


- (#5988) Chris Wallace, 29 Oct 02

I think the same must apply to my pump Chris, i`m about to change the back distribution seal because thats the only one left thats leaking , but before I do that I would like to find out from David if it`s safe to just remove injector pipes, remove back cover and replace seals, I,m assuming "seals" , one for each injector. Or is it a bit more complicated. I have noticed that after relacing the top cover seal its a bit sluggish and takes longer to start from cold, could I have upset the pump settings.
Barry.

- (#5989) Barry Powell, 31 Oct 02

Time for the diesel specialist, I'm afraid. The distributive head "O"ring means a full stripdown, there are various springs shims etc that'll fall out if you attempt it in-situ.
If you've replaced the top seal and it's sluggish, you've probably not set the fuel screw correctly (I'm assuming that you removed it to let the cover off)

- (#5990) david miller, 31 Oct 02

For the last few mornings when the roads are wet I have noticed coloured rings on the road I have drove over. I started this morning as usual but looked under the engine. There was some dripping from the black cross member near the sump. Sump dry. After I dropped my daughters in work and got home enging almost up to normal temp the dripping had stopped. Could this be from the bypass injector system or a relief valve on the diesel pump. I cannot see where it is coming from above the engine. Could anyone throw any light on this for me. The townie is a 1990 2ct td auto royal lounge.
56,000 miles.
Thanks Phil

- (#6122) Phil Cook, 15 Nov 02

Have you checked to see if it is diesel, oil or coolant?

- (#6123) Ian Dunse, 15 Nov 02

Thanks Ian, I will get under in the morning and check if I can see the leak.
Do you think it may be water? no loss in bottle.
The colour when it drips on a wet road is like rainbow.
Oil level did drop a touch. Will let you know. Phil

- (#6124) phil cook, 15 Nov 02

Had a look this morning when I got back from town.
It drips quite fast when I started but when I got back about 1.5 miles it had almost stop.
Temp gauge was not quite up to normal.
Looking from the top of the engine it looks as if it could be coming from down the diesel pump water bottle side. May be a pipe or hose of some sort. Or could be some sort of cover loose. It only happens when its cold start. When up to normal no drips. Yes it is diesel. Any help. Phil

- (#6125) phil, 16 Nov 02

Phil
I have the exact same problem, it pours out when cold but stops once warmed up. checked all the accessable seals and replaced only to find its coming from the distributor at the back of the pump which I am informed by David Miller is definately not a do it yourself job. Not quite ready to take ours off the road yet so we`re living with it for now, Good luck with yours.
Barry
- (#6177) Barry Powell, 19 Nov 02

Thanks Barry
I was hoping that it may have been easier to do myself.
I will check that area in the morning and start to make some enquiries as to a fix.
Keep you informed. Any comments please David.
Phil

- (#6178) phil, 19 Nov 02

My only comment Phil is once you find the leak, I'll try and tell you how to fix it!
My guess is top cover or throttle spindle seal. It's probably not going away when hot, just evaporating...
But it could be a fuel hose, or coolant from the cold start device.
Wash the pump down and dry it off, then start the engine. See if you can find the culprit...

- (#6179) david miller, 20 Nov 02

Me again,
Looking in my RM025E manual fu 14/15 this morning I removed the thermo wax cold start device.
The dripping was coming in behind that.
Trouble is I cannot see or feel where it is coming out because I cannot start without wax in place.
Could it be from the governor link support bolt as it shows a gasket there?
Could I safely remove this bolt in situ without the governor link moving?
The top cover joints appear dry.
If the above is not possible I can fabricate a blank of some kind to cover thermo wax and run engine to find exactly. Help please or may have to enter local pump specialist. Thanks phil

- (#6204) phil, 21 Nov 02

don't try to remove the link pivot bolt. You could, however see of it'll gently nip-up a little. I'd put a new "O"ring on the thermowax unit first, and see what happens.

- (#6205) david miller, 22 Nov 02

I had a good check this morning and left the engine running untill the leak appeared to stop.
The leak I think is coming from the cover.
No diesel on top of the cover.
Is it possible to take the cover of in situ or will this need to be dissmantled by specialist.
Also if it can be done is it a gasket or o.ring.
Then where to get the parts.
I am not sure why it stops dripping when the motor is warm unless the top cover seals itself by expanding.
- (#6206) phil, 23 Nov 02

you can do it yourself, but the throttle lever return springs are a bugger... but in- situ isn't a problem.
It's an "O" ring, and your local diesel engineer will sell you one. It's the same as the Bosch VE one.

- (#6207) david miller, 23 Nov 02

Thanks David.
See what I can do on Monday.
Keep in touch.
Phil
- (#6208) phil, 23 Nov 02

Thanks David,
Pity you were right about the throttle return springs.
They were a bugger to get back.
Also had a job to line the spline on the throttle shaft. Forgot to mark had to guess but ok in the end.
I will check the leak in the morning.
Replaced the throttle shaft o ring as well.
Fingers crossed will let you know. phil

- (#6273) phil, 29 Nov 02

Thanks for all your help.
No more leaks top cover seal was the problem.
May have to get the pump serviced next year.
Only job to do now is steam clean the area where the leak was then as good as new.

Phil

- (#6345) phil, 8 Dec 02

Good-o! Common problem, allegedly at 60k miles and above, so you're just about there...

- (#6346) david miller, 9 Dec 02