(Home) Exhaust manifold crack repair

I have a 1991 Townie 2TD 4x4 superextra and the manifold is cracked in several places,I know that this will have to be brazed,it seems that this is a fairly common fault.Is this fault down to the fact it must get dam hot and over time stresses and fatigue set in.Will better cooling to this area improve this problem? I work on aircraft and we have a putty that you mix and this has the same properties as steel when it hardens(24 hours)I will try it and see if it works.I'll let you know if it is successful and whether it can be obtained outside the aviation world.
- (#6935) Pete Taylor, 25 Jan 03

Are you referring to Liquid Steel? 80% steel in a 20% resin suspension. Used to use it on refractionating columns. Now they were hot! Might work on the manifold but would only see it as a temporary solution.

- (#6936) Ian Dunse, 27 Jan 03

Sorry David I should have started a new thread.
Thanks for your reply but I have altered the tickover/idler screw.
It is ticking over hot at 840 rpm steady.
Cold start after drag by pre heaters have shut of is 1000 rpm.
It gradually drops back to 840 when hot.
Is the best way just trial and error. I was turning that fuel screw to much though.
come back dave

- (#6892) phil, 26 Jan 03

Unless you have access to a smoke meter and a dyno, or you take the pump off, trial and error is about the best you'll do.
Sounds a bit high yet tho, the cold idle is a bit fast. What's the max revs? (gently...) turn the screw back a bit if they're over 5200.

- (#6893) david miller, 27 Jan 03