(Home) Ignition problems (Sp+)

hi can any one help
i am very near scrapping, i have a space cruiser model F 3Y engine, tried multiple distributors and timed them correctly, engine runs fires smoothly then starts to lose power then cuts out. no fuel loss no spark on test plug. as any one got any ideas or make me an offer for the vehicle as i need transport

please Email me to respond

- (#7075) Jim Jones, 7 Feb 03

Jim

It's customary on this site to enter into open dialogue. The reason being that someone else experiencing a similar problem may benefit from any advice given. Also it allows the responses to be logged on Ace Answers for future reference.

The obvious areas to check are
incorrect timing, faulty coil, faulty igniter, faulty high tension leads. You say you are getting no spark on the test plug yet you can get it started initially? Do you get four healthy sparks if you lay the plugs, connected on the block when you crank the starter? If yes and sustainable, then I would look again at timing (8 deg. BTDC). If not then check leads, coil and plugs (BPR5EY, 0.031 in). Let me know if you need further detailed specs.

- (#7076) Ian Dunse, 7 Feb 03

I forgot to add. Don't underestimate the problems that bad plug/HT leads can give. I've been in a similar position where I've been pulling my hair out trying to trace an intermittent fault, only to find replacing the leads made it all go away.

- (#7077) Ian Dunse, 7 Feb 03

Starts then dies.... does it start as always, how long does it run for?
Does the test plug spark at startup from cold?
Are you sure fuel is getting through?
Is choke sticking/stuck open?
Assuming you have done the above, I would look for either HT as Ian suggests, coil (but you say you have tried different dizzy) or perhaps a low tension lead that is earthing out/bad connection/break in circuit, activated by a bit of engine heat?
Can't be too major or it would not start in the first place.

- (#7078) Clive, 7 Feb 03

One other thing is the dizzy cap ok?

- (#7079) Clive, 7 Feb 03

Most likely that it's the coil 'breaking down' as it gets hot, but very difficult to test a coil correctly, you may get specs for primary & secondary windings resistance, but these mean nothing unless you can check it at cold & at working temperatures. Have you had a good (technically compitent) garage look at the vehicle yet?

- (#7080) Rob Drinkwater, 7 Feb 03