My gearbox has just packed up - it barely creeps along, and as soon as it gets warm it just sits there :-(
a) What would I expect to pay for a replacement?
b) Anyone any advice on good places to get one?
c) How big a job is it to replace?
Thanks,
Tom (gutted....)
- (#8765) Tom Lister, 29 May 03 3:55
First have you checked the fluid level?
Don't know how much, try BBC spares for a guide price if they have one.
Not changed an auto (or 4x4) but have done many an inline RWD manual box, including a Spacecruiser, and they were mostly easy.
However unless you have forewarning if this I suspect fluid lack of, or dead/restricted pump, or torque converter not working.
Check fluid first. If ok there may be some dirt blocking the pump or any off the oil ways, you could try draining and flushing and refill before spending major money.
HTH
Clive
- (#8766) Clive, 29 May 03 5:05
Thanks Clive,
I checked the fluid level with engine running and hot, and level was if anything above the top mark. I have noticed that 3rd gear tends to slip and lately it has been reluctant to stay in o/d.
I will get the garage to check it over before I spend, but I fear major money may be needed....
BBC spares are quoting £350 +VAT and Delivery.
Tom
Tom
- (#8767) Tom, 29 May 03 5:21
Hi Tom
Slipping in third gear is significant, and is usually a sign that the box is on its way out I’m afraid. I’m not sure where you are in the UK, but checkout yellow pages under Gear box Manufacturers & repairs, and find an Automatic specialist. Most of them can collect your car, run a diagnostic test to identify the problem, and advise you on the best solution.
I actually did this earlier today looking for a price for changing the transmission fluid, and found a specialist in Bournemouth that quoted “ Townace! oh yes that’s an import, we’ve done quite a few of them. 85 quid for an oil and filter change. Takes about two to three hours”.
He also said that the ATF should be changed every two years for mostly long distance driving, and 18 months for mainly Town driving.
Good luck
dave Bright
- (#8768) dave Bright, 29 May 03 6:56
Thanks, Dave, I was afraid it was.... Last automatic I had was a MKIII Cortina (bright yellow with a black vinyl roof - we called her Jemima, or course. But I digress)and the gearbox in that went the same way. Got a recon one, and ever after it would suddenly lock completely and leave black skid marks down the road.
As I am now staying in the wilds of the Highlands there is no chance of getting my box to anywhere, so I have spoken to Nipponspares.com in London, who supplied my replacement engine, and they are sending me a 2nd hand low-milage box for £352 including VAT and Delivery. The engine turned out to be a good 'un, so I am praying that this box is likewise. Colin at the garage reckons changing the box isn't a big deal.
I will let you know how I get on.
Tom
- (#8769) Tom, 29 May 03 8:29
Good luck with the second hand box Tom.
If your worried about it, you can still find a specialist who can test it for you, when its back on the road. I guess if you are a long way from anywhere though, that’s not going to be easy, but for peace of mind it may be worth a trip.
I have read that the torque converter on some automatic boxes, are equipped with drain plugs. These are accessed by a removable inspection hatch on the bell housing. Any chance you could ask the garage to verify this when they remove the old box? It might prove to be useful information for the more adventurous DIYers, who change their own oil.
Thanks
dave Bright
- (#8770) dave Bright, 29 May 03 9:29
I now have a replacement box from nipponspares.com in London - same people who sold me the engine, which is running fine (despite arriving with oil like treacle in it). The garage have drained the "new" box, and are concerned about the state of the oil. It is a very dark colour, and has a slight burnt smell. In addition the mechanic says it has some little white flecks in it which he says could be from the teflon seals.
I have spoken to Nipponspares, and they swear that the box is an imported Japanese spec one with no more than 45,000 miles on it. Just change the oil and you are laughing, is the message. It has a 3 month warranty, so if I fit it and it is duff I lose the labour cost but they will refund the cost of the box.
Do I fit the box, or take the money? :-)
Tom
- (#9024) Tom Lister, 7 Jun 03 9:14
Hi Tom.
I had my ATF changed last week by a specialist. He said the oil was well cooked, but the filter and sump were spotless. That’s a good sign, as if there was traces of dirt, it would suggest the friction plates were worn. How clean was your sump? Was there any metal on the magnet in the sump? If the sump and magnet were very clean, You may be ok. If they are badly stained then I would return it for another.
regards
dave Bright
- (#9025) dave Bright, 7 Jun 03 10:21
The 2nd hand box has now been fitted to the townie, though the mechanic was struggling a bit as he said that there were quite a few differences.
There is a servo on the back of this box which isn't present on the old one. Can anyone enlighten me as to its purpose? Will this box function without it being connected?
The kick down cable turns out to be broken. Colin at the garage says that the plastic piece at the box end appears to have been broken for some time, and he says that this would have let dirt into the box - maybe the cause of its demise? Can anyone tell me the correct part number for the cable, and anywhere it could be obtained quickly?
Thanks
Tom
- (#9142) Tom Lister, 13 Jun 03 3:29
33820-28191 for 4/89 to 6/91 models. Gonna have to be a dealer unless you can get one second hand. Make sure you tell them to order it VOR (Vehicle Off Road) in case they have to chase the back order all the way to Japan. It makes a difference of about 5 days as opposed to 3 weeks!
- (#9143) Ian Dunse, 13 Jun 03 4:15
Sorry Ian, should have said in my post my townie is an August '87 model - does that make a difference?
Thanks,
Tom
- (#9144) Tom Lister, 13 Jun 03 4:20
My CD does not recognise the part number you quote Ian.
It shows 35520-20100 for 8/84 to 8/88, which should cover Toms. Can you cross check before he gets a mortgage to pay Toyota?
- (#9145) Clive, 13 Jun 03 4:32
Sorry. No age was given so I assumed that it was as ours. However, I did qualify it with the age range. Thanks for checking it out for me though Clive.
- (#9146) Ian Dunse, 13 Jun 03 6:26
Hang on a minute, for that year I'm showing 33820-28110 subs 28120. Is one of us looking at the wrong part? I'll check again.
- (#9147) Ian Dunse, 13 Jun 03 6:35
Sorry my mistake. I was looking at the gearstick end. Clive's number is correct. Nice one Clive.
- (#9148) Ian Dunse, 13 Jun 03 6:47
Thanks, Clive and Ian. I will phone the garage and give them the number together with the advice about VOR. What would I would do without this site?
Tom
- (#9149) Tom Lister, 13 Jun 03 7:36
and the servo thingy is for engagement of 4x4...
- (#9150) david miller, 13 Jun 03 8:02
Gear box is in now, and seems to be working OK - though 4x4 capability will have to wait. Thanks for the part number, David Coombs on the Isle of Wight has ordered one up for me now. And you were right about the mortgage - I couldn't believe the price!
Tom
- (#9191) Tom Lister, 19 Jun 03 4:58
i've checked my alternator connection and found out that the middle wire( the one that send/charge the battery} has no current flowing. my electrician just tap a wire then connect it on the ignition switch. i've checked the voltage rating on my battery during idling and found that it is charging with an increment of .03volts and stayed at 13.9volts. i'm just wondering if this connection is right and this will not overcharged my battery....need help...tnx.
- (#9252) donie, 23 Jun 03 0:19
Following on from previous thread, I have just had a replacement (2nd Hand) 4x4 Autobox fitted. It has a large servo on the back of it that wasn't fitted to the old box. Can anyone tell me what it is for, and if this box is likely to work without it being connected?
Thanks
Tom
- (#9114) Tom Lister, 13 Jun 03 6:10
Tom. The CD shows this servo as " Diaphragm Cylinder and Transfer Vacuum Actuator". This is the device, presumably, which engages the transfer box to take power to the front axle. I had thought that this was solenoid actuated, via the 4WD button, on the dashboard, but, it may vary from model to model. If your previous gearbox did not have the vacuum unit, it might be a problem to engage 4WD and you should get it checked before fitting.
Of course, someone might comment here and advise more competently. Perhaps there is a solenoid AND a vacuum unit, though I don't seem to have one on my 4 x 4 Masterace.
- (#9115) John Davis, 13 Jun 03 7:24
Thanks John, I will pass that on to the garage and see what they think. I don't use 4x4 often but up here in the Highlands, when I do use it I really need it. If anyone else has any info on this I would be grateful...
Tom
- (#9116) Tom Lister, 13 Jun 03 7:39
Looks like early models selected 4x4 on the lever. Can you confirm this, Tom? If so, It's be a fair bit of work to get switches, solenoids etc configured to control the later box. Perhaps your mechanic can transfer the transfers? (sic) - they will unbolt from the end of the tranny, and should (but don't quote me) interchange...
- (#9117) david miller, 13 Jun 03 8:07
Tom. I really ought to get out a bit more !!!!
I have just done an inspection of my 1990 4 x 4 Masterace gearbox and, yes, I DO have the vacuum unit mounted on top of the transfer box casing but, in front of it there is a wired "plug". I now feel that this plug is a solenoid operated valve, ie, engaging the dashboard 4WD button, opens the valve and vacuum, through the diaphragm unit, does the work of pulling the engaging lever up. Unless someone can advise differently, I think that you do need the diaphragm and, also, the wired solenoid. Did you ever use 4WD on your old gearbox and, possibly, had the diaphragm unit been removed? Is David right, did some models have a pure electric solenoid actuator, operated from the gear lever?
- (#9118) John Davis, 13 Jun 03 8:30
Glad to hear that my query has enhanced your knowledge, John. I too am learning rapidly!
On my Aug '87 townie 4x4, the 4x4 is selected by a lever, no fancy switches on the dashboard for me! And it workded great before the box died. (David, could the broken plastic end of the kickdown cable have led to dirt in the box and the death of said box?)
Colin at the garage says that there is plenty of time to get the box working 4x4 before winter, but just now (having been up until 2:30 this morning working on the thing) he wants his ramp back!
Thanks for the help,
Tom
- (#9119) Tom Lister, 13 Jun 03 8:40
Anything that lets grot into the box will expedite it's demise...
I think the easiest way to sort your 4x4 issue would be to swap the transfers over- an hour or two and maybe a couple of gaskets ought to do it!
- (#9120) david miller, 13 Jun 03 9:28
i have just spent £700 getting my gearbox, injectors, turbo and exhaust refitted / overhauled on my townace deisel turbo. i did this because it is painfully slow when starting from a dead stop and i want to tow a small boat. the overhaul unfortunately has not improved the performance from a standing start - i still get peeped at when i go round roundabouts !!! it also kicks down too easily at 35 mph and 60 mph - i'm desperate - any suggestions !! please help.
- (#9181) Ewan Dryburgh, 18 Jun 03 15:19
Re
kickdown - previous posts suggest having the cable slack is best so try this ( a quick way to experiment with tighter settings is to hook some stiff wire over the exposed cable and wrap round something thereby increasing the tension - at least it was for my hiace - but I ended up removing all the tension finding this to be best setting)
Overhaul - can you be sure a thorough job was done of this - ie
was exactly was done/not done?
Have all usual service items been replaced?
A 'rolling road' set up would be the ultimate solution perhaps? - may be worth making some calls?
Chris
- (#9182) chris turner, 18 Jun 03 16:54
I would seriously consider having a compression test. Lack of power as you describe could be a serious problem - I know it was for me... :-(
- (#9183) Tom Lister, 18 Jun 03 17:17
Perhaps the injection pump needs calibrated? Is the boost sensing hose from the manifold connected correctly?
- (#9184) david miller, 19 Jun 03 1:46