Hi everyone!
I have been scanning 'Ace Answers'for some months now -an amazing site. . ., providing one owns a Townie? Unfortunately, it seems there is very little info for Hiace Wagon owners; after all it's still an Ace; and, an ace vehicle to boot. So, if there are other Super Custom Wagon owners out there in Ace-Land, then,please make yourselves known. ( The commercial section appears to have ample room for us all.) I feel like an outsider looking in. With a little more company maybe we could gate crash; mingle and be part of the Ace crowd, I'm sure we have just as much in common. Just for the record
Mine is a 1992 2.5 Diesel Turbo Toyota Hiace Wagon Super Custom Limited, 7 seater, Tripple Sunroof. Acquired it last October, after owning an 1985 Toyota 2.0 petrol - ex-grocers - panel van for eight years; which improved with age whilst within my care. Needless to say
I dont miss the old one, even though I thought I would! Oh well, It's over to you, if your out there. I look forward to our meeting of minds, of the few amongst the many - No I'm not philosophical, just a bit 'out there' on my lonesome - that's all!
- (#9090) Tony Knight, 16 Jun 03 6:38
That must be a pretty wide van Tony - in order to get the name along the back! Welcome to the club. Most of the stuff found here is Townie related but some may be relevant to your bus too.
- (#9091) Ian Dunse, 16 Jun 03 7:25
Dont be lonely Tony!
I run a 92 hiace wagon supercustom 4wd auto - 2779cc (3L)
No moonroofs and the cutains and rails had disappeared before I bought it in Feb
What did it for me was its the only supercustom I had seen which was'nt 2 tone
I find this site really useful as the ace family are clearly related in many ways
>little info for Hiace Wagon owners< well how many have you seen on the road? I see plenty townies and lucidas etc. but have only seen 4 hiaces on the road since getting mine - so the issue may be rarity (in UK)
They are great vehicles though - turn on a sixpence etc
Chris
- (#9177) chris turner, 17 Jun 03 15:05
hi tony your not a lone as chris says we are a rarity by the way mines a hi ace super custom wagon 2.4 diesel turbo 1991.
- (#9178) p.walsh, 17 Jun 03 17:50
94 super custom 3L, Nice to see i am not alone, had mine for 3 months now and have not seen another.
2 questions
1. does anyone know how to remove the front panel and bumper ( to change the head light bulbs). i have have got as far as removing the indicators and headlamp fixing screws, but lamps will not fit past the grill panel.
2. what fuel consumpion are you guys getting, the most i have got is 300 miles on a tank full..
- (#9248) mark, 22 Jun 03 16:31
Sounds like 19.5 to gallon if its a 70ltr tank
I recently topped (just) 20 mpg though previously it was 17.5 - 18.5mpg (3L engine)
It improved after cleaning a tee piece and renewing its 3 bits of vacuum tube linking into the inlet manifold. They were solidly caked up with crud. Don't know if improvement was this or hotter weather
Front lights -
Open door and just over top hinge is plastic cover held on with one screw - remove and keep removing other screws as you have - the lamps are screwed on also - you may have to loosen grill panel - mine is wired in the centre, but the trim over grill will move - yours will be the face lift model which has different grill
Seems a bizzare arrangement just to change running lights though - Must admit I tried to access the front fog lamp - but after a handful of screws I decided it was'nt important to do it that day!
I doub't the bumper will need to come off though correct me if wrong. Will the headlamps not tilt up and over?
Mark you would'nt have any 3L engine info would you? - I'm after the valve clearance settings or any other useful info
Chris
- (#9249) chris turner, 22 Jun 03 17:19
Chris, I've most of the engine manual for the 2L'T as a multipage tif, if it's of any use...
- (#9250) david miller, 23 Jun 03 2:01
Cheers David - short answer -I don't know - but suspect it may help regarding key torque setting etc.
What cc. is the 2L?
If you suspect there are similarities between the 2L and 3L (suppose there must be!) then I'd like a copy if this OK. No rush though as a rebuild is definately not on the agenda!
Thanks
Chris
- (#9296) chris turner, 23 Jun 03 18:22
same engine... 3L is a bored and stroked 2L. 2L= 2400, 3L= 2700 I think.
Covers injection pump etc as well...
I'll send you a copy, and you can have a looksee. You need to use "Imaging" to open the multipage images.
- (#9297) david miller, 24 Jun 03 2:22
Sorry, front lights are accessed by removing the plastic plate with 2 screws in between the hinges - NOT the plate over the top hinge
Thanks David - await with interest
- (#9298) Chris Turner, 24 Jun 03 7:19
Chris, clear your mailbox, and let me know it's size. I've had a couple of attempts kicked back...
- (#9299) david miller, 24 Jun 03 7:35
Hi Guys!
It's good to see you on the Bok. I must say I feel a whole lot better now there is more of us in touch; and already I have been amazed by the possibility of a 2L manual. I haven't been able to get one from the dealers, only the Hilux - which doesn't include anything about the Turbo. Therefore, Dave, any info you could pass on to me would be greatly appreciated.
(Mine's a 2.4 diesel) I hope to be able to contribute more helpful info to the Bok, but as yet I haven't had much go wrong with my Wagon; apart from the H/Cold box not working. But if anyone should need advice on fitting a Tow bar, then, having gone through the tedious task - with success - I can advise on that! Happy motoring guys!
- (#9300) Tony Knight, 24 Jun 03 9:34
David
Someone else had mails kicked back when trying to e-mail me - have now emptied inbox.etc-
though only about 250kb was in it - no idea what its capacity is but will e-mail this message direct and you could try a 'reply to sender'
Thanks
Chris
- (#9301) chris turner, 24 Jun 03 16:51
Chris
Assuming your engine is the same as mine (1KZ-TE)then i believe its the same as the Hi-lux engine (well everything maps out as far as i can see). The valves on line are adjusted by shims
Intake valve clearence 0.20-0.30 mm (0.008-0.012 in)
Exhaust Valve Clearence 0.25-0.35 mm (0.010-0.014 in)
Hope this helps - if yours is the engine above let me know and i can email you a couple of (not great quality) extracts from the hilux manual. unfortunately i haven't got the whole thing but will the parts as i find them
David - i would be interested in having a look at your 2L manual as well if you don't mind, i would like to compare this one and the hilux extracts
- (#9302) Mark, 25 Jun 03 16:16
Thank you for the info - i will have a good and proper look at it again this weekend
You are right it does seem a bizzare arrangement - but i have looked on the front bulkhead and behind the carpets and can not see any access panels of the type found on other import forward contro vans
- (#9303) Mark, 25 Jun 03 16:26
Thanks for that Mark
My engine model is 3L (not 3 litre but 2779cc!)- no turbo - Model LH107
I think they fitted them to japenese Hilux's for a while but have'nt been able to source spec type info for this engine
Good luck with the lights - at least you can do it at home - would'nt like to stop and have to change a bulb on a long journey!
- (#9304) Chris Turner, 25 Jun 03 18:32
1KZ-TE is a TOTALLY different motor the the L- series. The L has an iron head and the KZ is alloy. Plus the KZ-TE is electronically injected. Guys, I'm trying to get the manual hosted somewhere- 6Mb is too big for many mailboxes...
- (#9305) david miller, 26 Jun 03 1:20
Just remembered, I've a .pdf of the 1KZ book too...
- (#9306) david miller, 26 Jun 03 1:25
if anyine needs the engine manual for the 1KZ-TE ENGINE you can find it at the following site
http://surf.mactherapy.com/
its available in either a 14 meg file of split into sections
i scanned it for virus'using sophos anti virus and found nothing but i would advise anyone downloading it to do the same
- (#9468) mark, 4 Jul 03 16:12
These motors were all at some stage installed in the Japanese Hilux Surf.
There is an Aussie website for them, but also I am sure there is an English site too.
Maybe you can get the engine info through them?
They do have the same sort of problems with availability of manuals etc. though.
Dave.
P.S. As this site is for Aces, would it be possibly to just extend this site for them specifically, or is the general concensus that another site needs to be set up? - there seems like there could almost be enough of them, but we wouldn't want to deprive them of the knowledge and wisdom of some contributers here.
- (#9469) DaveW, 6 Jul 03 21:49
Thanks to everyone for the advice on the lights for this one. I have got to the bulbs at last,
The indicators have to come off, as does the whole front grill ( held on by 4 bolts (at ends) and 6 clips (across the middle)) a very firm but careful pull removes it. The lights then unbolt. While i was there checked, and no there are no access panels to get to the bulbs. well its done now and a least i will not be scratching my head at night on the motorway somewhere if the go......
- (#9521) Mark, 7 Jul 03 13:28
Try Dave Coombs of Wight Motors (IoW) for engine manuals if needed. Been looking for a 3L manual some 5 months now without success. Dave said he can supply.
Note that it does not cover electrics etc. - just the engine
Give him a ring if needed - 01983-405565
He can also supply 2CT engine manuals for townaces
(cost is less than any haynes manual)
Chris
- (#9522) chris turner, 8 Jul 03 17:06
Hi
I have a 3L 4WD Diesel Super Custom insured through the NFU - National Farmers Union tel 01825 763578
I also have an issue with replacing the passenger side headlight bulb as even though I have removed the screws at the door hinges holding the side light units it still all seems too solid to move without breaking something - whats the trick? - Just read Marks posting so I will have another go.
Other issues - high reving engine when driving on the motorway - is it possible to get different ratio gearing for these things? - I replaced the original Japanese tyres (which had poor grip) with higher profile tyres to increase the gearing - this dropped the 70mph crusing revs by about 300 to 3300revs. This cost about £250 for 5 new tyres as I got 50% discount by proving that I could get the tyres cheaper via mail order.
Air conditioning - not working and probably full of the old type coolant - does anyone know a cheap way of getting this sorted - I am based in Guildford Surrey.
Towbar - I am just about to get one fitted so any advice would be great
Thanks JenChris
- (#9523) JenChris, 9 Jul 03 7:24
I just remembered I had a problem with the start motor being intermittent and getting worse until it did not work at all. My local garage said that it would need replaced and that the part would have to come from Japan - £250 - £300 or more - I reconditioned the old one myself over a year ago and it has never failed since - used 10 times a day easy.
If anyone else needs their starter repaired mail me at
jenchris@ntlworld.com £50 plus £10 return postage with a 3 day turnaround.
- (#9524) JenChris, 9 Jul 03 7:52
Hey guys and gals,
Just thought I'd throw my two cents in and tell you that I've just bought an '88 Hiace Wagon (2L petrol) 8 seater. I LOVE the space. Very roomy. My vehicle must have been sitting in a garage somewhere in Japan, because it's immaculate with only 101,000kms. Wishing the engine had a bit more umph to it though. Pretty gutless...but the space and comfort is a good tradeoff, I guess. Put an immobiliser on it today, and am going to have to upgrade the stereo system...but that can wait a few weeks.
Anyway, love the forum and website. Glad I found it. There's not much info about Hiace Wagons out there.
Max
- (#9525) Max, 9 Jul 03 10:05
JenChris - yes the side light units are stiff, i sprayed some wd40 behind them using the straw/tube that comes with the tin. Even after that they required a firm hand.
Does anyone know of a good place to fit a secondary battery on the Hi ace ? suggestions welcome
there isn't enough room in the battery tray with the diesel batt in place. Yes i know this is a hi capacity one but i would like to use the wagon to go away for a few weeks at a time and the extra battery would be good to power the lights in the drive off Awning (ex vw camper - anyone want a vw ?)
- (#9526) mark, 9 Jul 03 16:26
i have been looking at the same thing, the 1kz diesel in mine seems to have plenty of power and i think it could handle slightly longer gearing overall. i know that there are plenty of different diff ratios available for the 4x4 hiace version, because i have known them to be fitted to landrover products because they are stonger. ( do a search on the web for "hiace differential")what i don't know yet is are they suitable for the 2wd versions.
Note
you would probably need to look at the acturacy of you speedo following this type of work
Another option may be to speak to some like ashcroft transmissions ref a higher top gear and revalving the auto box - sounds expensive though, i would guess you would be lucky to get change out of 500 notes.
- (#9527) mark, 9 Jul 03 16:40
Diffs
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_axles.html
http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/hypoid1.html
this one may help with identifyinghttp://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_axles.html the axle
You could also try
http://www.quaifeamerica.com/
if you want to go off road alot - but the cost is approx 1000 US Dollers each for an order of 25 units
Hope some of this helps
- (#9528) Mark, 9 Jul 03 17:05
Under the drivers seat (under floor panel) I understand to be the traditional place for second batteries on hiaces.
You would need to make some holding brackets though and use a relay to isolate it from the main circuit when the engines off.
Plenty of room under the vehicle generally also for all sorts of ancillaries
Aircon - got mine recharged at home for about £80 (James at 'Chill Out' in North West Lancs - did'nt take long - he used 1400gms of 416A gas with compressor oil and fluorescent dye - would recomend his mobile service to anyone in the area
- (#9529) chris turner, 9 Jul 03 18:47
For anyone having difficulty getting to the headlamps!
Just a note to say that, the male bullet pins on the indicator units - which clip into the plasctic recesses around the headlamps - can be subject to corrosion; thereby refusing to detatch from the female nylon/plastic counterpart. Too strong a pull on the raised bridge of the indicator could damage the headlamps' plastic recess casing if one is not carefull, rendering firm replacement of the indicator unit/s difficult. The same is to be said of the sidelight unit.
I had the pleasure of trying to release the said seized parts in my attempts to detatch the front bumper assembly; and found that, it is possible to get releasing fluid to these points from the underside - although fiddly - after locating them with a torchlight. You do need to raise the vehicle slightly to get good vision and access. Also, you need a good aim to hit them; being so small and remote. But good luck, the patience is worth it to keep everything intact. Just derust & grease before reassembly and you won't have to worry about it again!
- (#9614) Tony Knight, 13 Jul 03 8:32
hi all you hiace wagon owners out there can any of you tell me what the e.c.t button is and does as i have only had this vehicle a week and can't suss it also should it have kick down cos mine won't and how can i cure it if it should. any advise on this would be much appreciated.thanks a lot everybody hope to here from you soon best regards
- (#9681) pete, 14 Jul 03 15:47
ECT button is wired into the gearbox. What it does is hold the engine in gear for longer - (it will change at higher revs when on)
Useful if you want to make rapid progress or for very hilly areas (or if you get bored)
Kickdown should work - try driving lightly around 25mph (probably 3rd) and then floor the pedal
I have played with my kickdown setting and have found (as many townie owners) that I prefer it with the slack removed from the cable
If you alter the kickdown - you will find a relative change in the ECT button
If still no kickdown - remove the sump and you can see (just) where it attatches inside - get someone to work the pedal to see if it moves
Don't know what engine you have (mine is 2779cc 3L model) but I could only move the nut to adjust the kickdown by getting a crows foot onto the end of a socket wrench. Not tight as such but hard to access. If you follow the cable from the fuel pump back it goes through an orange shroud - the locknut just at the far end of this - you can experiment tightening the cable by hooking a bent bit of wire over the cable and securing somewhere near to see the difference.
Good luck - if the fluid is dirty - change it. The sump pan holds about 2.5 ltr so a 5 ltr of ATF from the auto factors will give you a couple of changes (leave for a couple of weeks and change again if needed)
Chris
- (#9682) chris turner, 14 Jul 03 18:01
Hi all,
Can any of you chaps tell me how I can change a digital dash reading in kph to mph
Cheers
- (#9683) Andy, 15 Jul 03 12:40
2L and 3L engine owners - Toyota repair manual RM123E is an Aug 88 publication.
Actually for cressida, hilux, dyna. with these engines.
Covers engine, fuel, cooling, lubrication, starting and charging + service specs.
Very simply laid out and valuable book.
Should be available from any toyota dealer (cheaply)- but if they pretend such info does'nt exist (as mine has for months) just walk out and try Dave at Wight Motors 01983-405565 (toyota agent)
No fuss, little money and a manual by return of post
If you are looking for 2L and 3L info - don't mess about just get it
Chris
- (#9684) chris turner, 16 Jul 03 18:20
Andy - try the trader ads in the front of Auto Trader mag (uk). I was considering gettin a hiace with digi dash some time back though the dealer selling the hiaces said they had had problems with such work.
A firm advertising in auto trader from Warrington said they could do it -
The dealer had not used the Warrington firm though so I would be open minded on this but would advise queerying guarantee etc.
- (#9685) Digital dash, 16 Jul 03 18:32
Chris, I got my 2L manual from Toyota but, unfortunately, it doesnt cover the Turbo aspect. Carl - my friendly parts manager - said there was an update supliment; but that it was no longer availiable, at least not as far as he could find. However, if you should know any different; there maybe some copies around, somewhere?
If there was, then, Id'e certainly like to get my hands on one!
Tony.
- (#9770) Tony Knight, 17 Jul 03 8:10
Try
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/conversions/
also this next site is very useful and may be able to point you in the right direction
http://www.importedvehicles.co.uk/
- (#9771) Mark, 17 Jul 03 15:20
Tony - see seperate recent posting on '2/3L manual ' stockist - Alan thinks a turbo supplemnent is available there - so check it out
Chris
- (#9772) chris turner, 18 Jul 03 18:42
hi there I`ve been looking at a van to take surfing for a while in the uk and the hiace stands out for a sleeper but I`ve got to drive 40 miles a day with my job what mpg do you get on a turbo diesel because my old man trying to get me buy a bedford rascal instead please help
- (#9773) ross, 21 Jul 03 8:32
The Bedford rascal will see many more mpg.
Remember the hiace supercustoms are very heavy, auto box, air con, rear heat, 4wd (if fitted), viscous fan etc. - The weight and mpg. sapping abilities of these features should'nt be underestimated.
Best mpg. I ever had was 20.5 (worst 17.5)though I would imagine 40 mile trips daily would see an increase on this.
Mine is not a turbo but a 2779cc. engine-3L model.
Excellent and sturdy vehicles - but do check it out with a 'toothcomb' 1st. (make sure the rad gets hot both sides and that the pick up tube in the expansion tank is present amongst other things).
Give the thing a thorough service when acquired to prevent scratching your head over problems when you should be on the surf
Good luck
- (#9830) Chris Turner, 21 Jul 03 9:05
hi everyone
I just got back from a weekend away to find a very suprising thing my hiace doesnt seem to find towing a problem I dont mean a mecanical problem I mean any kind of problem. I just towed a twenty foot caravan weighing 1 ton plus eight people inc me plus all our luggage our food drink an awning several bikes tables chairs etc the scenic route through the lakes winding roads up down stop start etc and still managed 17.5 mpg as compared to 19 normal driving with just me.can anyone tell me why this is and how is it that my revs stay more or less the same at any speed (30 to 50 mph revs at just over 3000rpm no change of gear)is this normal not that i am complaining oh yes thanks to chris for the advise on the e c t button and the kick down. kick still doesnt work but i can live with it thanks see ya
- (#9831) pete, 21 Jul 03 15:31
>30 to 50 mph revs at just over 3000rpm no change of gear< Very odd
I find that in top gear the rpm is (ignoring some noughts) about 1/2 the mph.
ie
40mph=2000rpm, 50=2500, 60=3000rpm etc.
My torque convertor locks at 30mph (35 with ect) and 40mph in fourth
However in the past I had probs with it not going into 3rd properly until it hit 2800rpm - change of driving style and flushing the box a few times has helped. This 2800rpm figure would have been higher with the ect on.
If the rpm is not changing then somethings not right (maybe slipping under load or the phenomenon I had). I had mine checked by 2 independant auto box specialist who said it was fine and could'nt be improved.
Does it still do it minus the caravan, 8 passengers and luggage etc.?
Does the rpm function OK with the vehicle stationary?
I would drain the ATM sump and see what the fluid is like (takes 2.5 ltr of dexron) - and do it again a few weeks later if it was bad - probably a good idea after your recent trip anyway.
If the kickdown cable is not hooked up both ends the box would behave strangely but I would'nt know how.
When I have experimented on other vehicles - if the setting is very wrong the box just seems to change gears all over the place
Strange rpm aside - sounds like you have discovered the load pulling benefits of 'oodles of torque'
- (#9832) chris turner, 21 Jul 03 16:04
no kickdown cable on a toyota tranny= no line pressure= changes happen at lowest possible rpms. No kickdown, no load related change- down.
- (#9833) david miller, 22 Jul 03 1:01
alguien sabe de cuantros litros es el radiador para el motor 2CT Toyota
- (#9834) Iván Gacitua, 22 Jul 03 21:07
alguien sabe de cuantros litros es el radiador para el motor 2CT Toyota.
Por favor gracias
- (#9835) Iván Gacitua, 22 Jul 03 21:09
7.1 litros, en total.
Vease Ace Answers / on line reference/cooling and heating/ cooling summary
Vale la pena leer todos estos capitulos con atencion - el cooling es la cosa que da mas lio con estos vehiculos esplendidos.
HTH (hope this helps)
Tony
- (#9836) tony, 23 Jul 03 8:08
just a line to say I have just purchased a 90 custom wagen 2l(2.4 td)
I love it to bits at the moment can anyone recomend a place to convert my analogue speedo from km/h to mph
- (#9849) mark goff, 25 Jul 03 1:03
Welcome Mark.
Sounds like you have the same model as myself. It is not hte first time this question has been asked -mine is digi km/h also but Iv'e got used to it
In overdrive it always kicks into top gear at 63-64, which = 40 mph; 32kp/h =20; 50km/h = 30mph; 97 = 60; 113 = 70; 130 = 80. It doesn't take long for it to settle in the memory. I haven't heard of any where that does a conversion - as yet; maybe some one has. Until then, I hope this helps. Good luck
Tony
- (#9850) Tony Knight, 25 Jul 03 5:26
Thanks Tony,
I will commit the km/h to memory.
How many wagen owners? Enough to gate crash the next ACE JAM
- (#10126) mark goff, 26 Jul 03 0:14
Just out of interest (and worries over a fault)
Has anyone ever removed the radiator from a 4wd 3L engined hiace + what was involved?
Looks to be a complete nightmare to get the thing disconnected and out
- (#10127) chris turner, 27 Jul 03 7:51
Is this the longest posting ever, thought I'd get in at no 50?
Just a note to say that Ace Jams are open to any Toyota with Ace in the name, and any other Toyota MPV but we won't talk about them here.
- (#10128) Clive, 28 Jul 03 1:33
At last, I have found an oasis in the wilderness. I have a 2.4 turbo Diesel Hiace Custom. If anyone live in the northwest and wants a towbar, I know a reliable bloke who makes and fits them for £140 (single plug) I got my hot box working again after the air con was recharged. I am glad found this sight as i thought the ECT button was to turn off the electric curtain track, don't laugh. i also now know how I can stop myself cursing when i pull out in the middle lane and the gearbox kicks down halting my acceleration.
Does anyone know why my turbo light might have started coming on when motorway driving, when the engine is turned off and back on it goes out, a recent problem, but a worrying one. They are expensive to run, my garage got 4 Toyota exhausts and still had to modify one of them to fit, the fuel pump leaked at one point and that was sent away to be rebuilt, not cheap, so this turbo problem is worrying. Still an excellent motor though. You can get the reduction drives for the gearbox to convert the digital dash, its a 5/8 reduction, its not done electronically as the speedo cable spins a magnet disk at the dashboard end like an anologue one. Any help in diagnosing the turbo will be appreciated, I think i am losing power, only noticble when using kick down, feels normally aspirated instead of turboed.
- (#10129) Andrew Marchant, 28 Jul 03 14:23
Andrew - have no turbo on mine so can't comment but there seems plenty of info in the archives - Know what you mean about the exhausts - the atm cooler pipes had to be bent out the way and heat shielded to accomodate the updated exhaust on mine - though re-routed atm pipes were available for a pricey sum
- (#10130) Chris Turner, 10 Aug 03 17:18
Can anyone tell me how to fix a broken adjusting bolt on my alternator on my Commuter Hi-Ace 3L diesel 12/1992. It has dual air and the compressor is above the alternator making it almost impossible to see even with a mirrror and torch. No adjustment in fan belt as alternator is swinging on bottom bolt.
Andre
from Sydney
- (#10198) Andre Hogie, 12 Aug 03 6:36
I assume its the very long bolt that moves the alternator on its slider to tension the belts?
This can be accessed through the wheel arch (behind the rubber covers) for adjusting - so you will be able to get one half of it out from here (assuming the head isn't broke.
The other half? I don't know - the floor panel may need removing to begin with - then remove or move whatever seems easiest, to access it.
Mine is a 4wd so access from below is hampered by the drive shafts but if yours is 2wd you may stand a better chance from below.
I have never had to get the access you need - so can't tell you exactly what needs removing or moving - a few things are a real pain to get to - (just have some 'band aid' handy) - it is possible (just) to see it with a small inspection mirror - but as you have noted the compressor is in the way so may need moving if poss - think only other way to make more space is to get the rad and viscous out - but it may be possible to unscrew the remaining threaded bar 'semi blind' with some appropriate grips - you will need loads of patience though.
You certainly have my sympathy - but anything can be done - weigh it up carefully and good luck
- (#10199) chris turner, 12 Aug 03 16:58
Just had a quick look at mine.
If you need to access from above (4wd)
The viscous fan unbolts easy enough on the compresion stroke (had mine off a few days ago) - took a few minutes only. Then the fan shroud can be removed (screws in side of - and mine is secured with cable ties top and bottom) - then probably remove the top hose from the rad and you can probably get away with leaving the rad in-situ - this should give you the space you need - on refilling the coolant I would use an extended header tank to ensure all air is removed (see seperate posting entitled 'bleeding air locks' from earlier in the month)
- (#10200) chris turner, 12 Aug 03 17:35
Now maybe I'm a bit slow (took me 6 months to discover it), but just incase there are others who haven't discovered it yet - apart from the underseat floor access panels - if you pull the carpet and loom cover behind the front seats you will find a good size access panel on the rear vertical bulkhead. Certainly answers alot of access answers for me!
- (#10458) chris turner, 27 Aug 03 19:28
I have recently recieved requests for Towbar and fitting information for the Toyota Hiace Wagon. So, for those enthusiastic DIY Wagon owners with 1990 models - as I can't speak for later ones - here is my journey through the process of fitting a Towbar.
The important thing is, the outer width measurement across the chassis at the rear of the vehicle; if yours is a 1990 the shape will be similar to the European Hiace - the ones we get here; which Witter Tow Bars still supply for - that's who supplied mine.
Whether or not they will fit it I don't know. It depends on which outlet or agent supplies you. I fitted my own; which was quite involved due to the fact that there were a lack of captive nut locations on the Wagon to take the supplied bolts - unlike the European model; plus, there was a welded bracket with an eye on the left hand side, which I pains takingly had to remove free-hand using a hack-saw blade in a small plastic handle, and grind down the remaining weld. It took a while (acheing neck and shoulders come as standard).
There are no holes or captive nuts on that side, bar one; furthest to the rear on the under side of the chassis leg bolting the filler pipe guard - which, incidently, has to be removed - ( a smaller size bolt but sufficient; just requires a larger diameter heavy duty washer ). So, I had to transfer the 2 hole locations from the other side by way of a cardboard template - after removing the bolted tow eye. These holes do line up with those of the outer bracket of the towbar assembly - 2 in number. Use cereal packet cardboard as it's not too thick or thin; cut it to fit snuggly into the corner of the chassis section, covering the holes, but no deeper than the box section depth for alignment purposes. Press firmly around the edges of the holes, which will leave their mark on the plain side of the carboard; pen round the circle, make a pin hole in the centre of each; through which you can mark the left hand side ready for centre punching when you transfer the template - the two sides of the chassis are symetrical so it should fit snuggly. After marking, your eyes or/and a measuring tape should convince you of the template's accuracy - before drilling.
I had to use a right angle drill and hole cutter (high grade steel) to drill the 2 holes (no larger than the thread size of the bolt), after first centre punching and drilling a pilot hole with a 1/8 drill. The last hole on the under side of the l/hand Chassis leg, forward of the filler pipe neck, I disregarded as access was too difficult. The end result still remained:- one underbolt on each side.
Next - the rear carpet rolled back to expose the floor - I cut three sides of a 3" x 3" square; folding the metal back, to be bent back later and covered with insulation tape; directly above the box section on the left; half way between where the 2 holes come through the side to gain access to the bolts with the nuts/flat/spring washers, by way of a ring spanner.
On the r/h side, I drilled out the blank on the under side of the chassis leg, and again directly above it with the hole cutter to allow the nut /washers & socket through - later to be taped over.
A flexible magnet is ideal for locating the washers on to the side bolts in the box sections; and a match stick or piece of cardboard keeps the nut held in the ring spanner as you spin the bolt into it, or, in the socket when working from the top - piece of cake!
After partial assembly, in accordance with supplied instructions, make sure all is level and aligned before final tightening of all bolts. Additional high tensile bolts were bought for assembly as the ones supplied were close threaded and had no nuts. Locktite on the threads gives piece of mind, unless you are using nylock nuts.
Well, that's it
I've been towing my Conway folding camper for a while now with no problems.
Have fun!
- (#10459) Tony Knight, 29 Aug 03 10:14