I have a 3y with the head off, and want to increase the power it could put out. Is there any thing any one can suggest? I plan to get the head planed and ported and send the cam to a specialist, will it be ok for a 3y?And can i replace the 3y distributer with a 1y electronic distributer?

- (#9496) vincent, 8 Jul 03 5:41

as with any engine it is possible to get more power, the important bit is making sure that every thing can take the extra power and keep it cool.
the engine should be in good condition especially the bottom end.
your drive line (gearbox, prop shaft, diff etc also needs to be ok)
i would follow the tried and tested route to more power
1. make sure its tuned poperly
2. sort out the breathing - free flow air filter, matching the the inlet and exhaust ports, gaskets and manifolds ie the manifold,gasket and port need to line up and be the same size.
3. sort out the extraction - free flow exhaust - no point putting more in if it can not get out..
4. flowed head - (what your planning to do) but dont polish the inlets or you will end up with the fuel dropping out of the air flow - best leave them with a slightly rough texture. and make sure they dont take too much of the valve guides
also don't take much off the head when planing - extra pressure on what already can be a hot runner will cause a dent in your wallet.
5. camshaft - i have seen difficulties with reprofiled orginals as you lose the overall size which can cause the valves to move between open/close to quickly (reducion in the base circle, this causes a loss of distance between the rotational centre and the rocker posts and reduces the ramp up/down). speak to kent cams they may be able to grind one from a blank.
6. you could also try a new inlet and exhaust manifolds
i don't think the orginals were designed for high flow high power.

what ever you do, do not do anything that will reduce the torque at the lower end - its a heavy wagon and needs it to get moving ( the cam has the biggest potential to do this)

there are alot of pitfalls so either start with basics or consult a good performance garage.

if you say where you are in the country i or someone else may be able to recommend someone..

sorry if this sounds abit doom and gloom - on the bright side as long as you don't go to mad on the head i would get it done while its off - but don't expect much increase until the fuel/air in and exhaust are sorted







- (#9603) Mark, 11 Jul 03 16:30

Can the Turbo unit from the Town Ace diesel fit the 2.0 EFI Town Ace? I don't want to fit one, its just that a friend from Malaysia claims to have a Town Ace 4x4 Royal Lounge 2.0 EFI Turbo. He swears to me that it is petrol and not diesel.

- (#9604) James, 11 Jul 03 17:24

No sure if its a sriaght swap or not but i suspect that it would be feasable, the petrol engines are not high revvers so the turbo charateristics off the diesel wouldn't be too far off whats needed. it would come in nice and low in the rev range. it would produce a punchy combination for raffic light getaways and that important 40-60 overtaking opertunity

- (#9673) Mark, 16 Jul 03 13:20

2C parts dodn't interchange with any petrol engines that I know of, you'd have to custom fabricate manifolds etc. But there are 1600, 1800, 2000, 2200 petrol turbo engines...
Swaps of this kind tend to be more prevalent in the US and Australasia. There's RWD Celicas, Carinas and Camrys with turbos. A bellhousing swap should match then to the townie tranny.
But there's no petrol turbo townies listed on the parts cd...

- (#9674) david miller, 16 Jul 03 14:14

I have a toyota townace 1993 2L I have a caravan at flamingo land yorkshire and i travel there every week but on a level i would have no problem with 80/90 not over heating but get a slope it drops right down to even 50 is a problem and I am lucky on this run if i get 25 to gallon. can anyone help about lack of power and how to get better miles to gallon. As I am going tpo France in several weeks thats a lot of miles and at the moment a lot of money. Help soon. Anyone in the wigan area who thinks they can for cash in hand then let me know. since my last oil change i noticed its using a lot of oil not leaking and when i took the cap off it was black don't know if it should be. I think i should get another oil change before iwe go to france anyway. any help pleasssssssssssse
shirley

- (#9758) shirley, 19 Jul 03 15:05

It is normal for deisel engines to have black oil - its the soot in the exhaust gas. People have varying opinions on oil change frequency - I would think every 3000 miles would be keeping ahead of service intervals but probably good practice.
From 90 down to 50 on hills? Is your vehicle turbo fitted or not - and is it working ok?
Air-con fitted? You could try switching off the air con when you need more power but if your feet are to the boards then the throttle sensor should switch it off anyway above 3/4 pedal.
25 mpg probably is'nt bad 'flat out' on the motorway.
Is it automatic box? this will sap several mpg.
If its using oil (but not leaking) then it must be burning it - if this is the case get a compression test to see what state the engine is in.
If it is burning oil (you dont say how much) then hammering the engine will ultimately destroy it.
Ace answers does suggest some models are not great on hills. At the end of the day its a 10 yr old deisel - and quite a heavy one - with its list of extras sapping mpg.
Hope you get it sorted - perhaps another townie owner could comment on how their vehicle handles motorway hills
Chris
- (#9759) chris turner, 19 Jul 03 16:45

Yes it is turbo and it is auto box but i will get a compression test done. do you know if its expensive?
and what could be the outcome if there are problems with the test or turbo. always happy to take a look at any suggestions.

- (#9760) shirley, 20 Jul 03 3:22

Hi just thought i would add its done about 95000, klm what about guess 60000miles didn't think this was a lot for the engine to have problems its had the timing belt changed whe it had done around 75000klm as we bought it. when we had the last oil change about march this year until then we never had to top the oil. then after that a week or so later the oil light came on and we checked it straight away and the oil was as low as it could get. we quickly topped it up and since then march probably topped it up with about 2l of oil we do do a lot of miles but we did before the oil change too. going to book it in for a compression test this week but not sure what to expect and if i go in not knowing what i am talking about thats when the pound signs go round in the garage owners eyes do you think.

- (#9761) shirley, 20 Jul 03 4:27

Don't recall ever having a good experience at a garage.
Very basic servicing is not hard if you are of average health - oil and filter - air filter - fuel filter belts and brakes etc. - so its diy or pay the piper.

I would ask for the compression figures to be written down (or even ask if you can see it being done)
I don't know the cost (should be fairly low)but the only concern would be if the figures were all very low or had inordinately unbalanced figures between cylinders.

I don't have your engine data but as a loose example the figures quoted fo mine (3L hiace) are:
Standard 455psi
Lower Limit 284psi
Max pressure difference between cylinders 71psi

Your recomended figures will be a bit different but the above gives you an idea
In practice its certainly possible to run a vehicle with figures outside the recommended - but I would'nt be planning on keeping such a vehicle without budgeting for a rebuild in the future
Oil usually gets burnt by running down the valve guides (usually just the rubber oil seals need replacing - not worrying)
or by sump oil getting past the piston rings (usually worn bores - more worrying)
I would ask them to check that the crankcase breather is doing so - (just a rubber tube from sump to rocker box allowing gas pressure out of the sump) Other approximate tests include taking the dipstick out and seeing if it spits oil (pressured sump) but to be honest cars can sometimes run a long time even when worn
I don't have turbo knowledge so cannot comment if oil leak within the turbo would cause such probs - (try looking through ace answers)
If you are going to hang onto the vehicle get a manual (if only to give to an unfamiliar mechanic who seems to be scratching his head)
Local Toyota should supply but if they are obstructive try Dave at Wight Motors for one via post 01983-405565
Regarding mileage - Town driving will wear an engine (and the rest)much quicker than motorways.
Infrequent servicing will speed up wear also.
I am sure that just as in this country, cars go through auctions with altered mileage readings in Japan also - one site was suggesting almost 50% clocking before or during import - Condition of what can be seen and understood should be trusted more than the odometer.
I think the worst thing with these vehicles is the 'worry' of the unfamiliar - demystification to a level you are content with is one cure (or an open chequebook)
Good luck

- (#9762) Chris Turner, 20 Jul 03 17:01

Chris say, "a rubber tube from sump to rocker box allowing gas pressure out of the sump". Is this how that pressure is released on a 2CT? I know there is an equally important and very obvious rubber tube from the rockerbox to the large main air inlet hose. But I've looked for, and never found, a rubber hose from the sump to the rockerbox. If there is one where exactly is it? or is the sump pressure ventilated through channels in the block?

- (#9826) Dave Mason (Sussex), 21 Jul 03 10:09

crankcase breathes through oil return holes between head and block in 2C...

- (#9827) david miller, 21 Jul 03 10:58

Sorry - breaking my own rules of 'assume nothing'. Perhaps I should think before I type - was thinking of other vehicles I've owned. I run a hiace not towny - many similarities but this obviously not one.
Thanks for pointing out the error as I would'nt want to mislead anyone

- (#9828) chris turner, 21 Jul 03 16:13

I don't know the first thing about where to look for any of these pipes to check for blockages but if any one can send me a pic. i will have a good try. it is a townace 1993 new shape. and what grade oil does anyone use as its been said that if i have used one too thin then it will have burned for that reason. but the first time it did it was a week after the garage had done its service in march 03. i phoned the garage at the mount he seems to know his stuff but i think he might know how to charge as well. he said it doesn't sound like a compression fault as i reach the top speeds easy enough. said about checking for blockages or turbo or even going back to when i bought the car and i had a new timing belt put on that the garage might not have set it to the correct settings. but for a compression test i could be talking 60.00 +v.a.t. or i could just leave it with them for a day why they check it out and get some vac. tests done in it. really don't know what to do. but thought if i could check for at least blockages.

- (#9829) shirley, 22 Jul 03 9:31

sweet!cheers mark. im in new zealand, which makes it a bit hard. I just had the cam sent to a specialist here in nz called kelford cams, will get the head done soon, ill have to get extractors made up,the 3Y is replacing a 1Y in a lite ace so it should go ok! its a low roof, short wheel base liteace, so will the 1Y fly wheel be ok on the 3Y? might not b worth it. will an old celica gear box be better suited? and a hilux diff or 4WD liteace diff? And how do i find out what other carbs i can put on? maybe get some twin side draghts but getting a manifold to fit or be made could be mission.

- (#10490) vincent, 1 Sep 03 2:40

why not just stick with a twin- choke, but make up an adaptor plate for a bigger weber- smething like a 32 dmtl/ dmtr...

- (#10491) david miller, 1 Sep 03 4:57