Being a smoker myself, I now how difficult it is to stop smoking, but having tried new filters, a reconditioned head, reconditioned injectors, cleaned inlet manifold, disabled EGR, and using fuel additives every time I fill up, I would have hoped that my bus would have passed the darn smoke test, but no. Just got back from the MOT station with an emissions test of 4.14 average.
Having read the archives, I see that I can either adjust the smoke screw on the top of the injector pump, or the maximum fuel screw on the back of the injector pump. Both sound like they are fiddly, so I am wondering which I should do. Adjust the smoke screw to get it through the MOT or adjust the maximum fuel screw that will reduce the smoke and performance, and presumably increase the MPG?
Dave Bright (Bournemouth)
- (#10503) dave Bright, 15 Sep 03 9:16
Anything that alters fuelling to improve smoke levels will also decrease power. You could fiddle for many happy hours, or take it to a good diesel specialist, and they can do it in one easy step- adjust it to pass (just) and take the minimum performance hit...
Has the timing been checked?
- (#10504) david miller, 15 Sep 03 9:38
Hi David
When I had the head changed we were very particular when it came to setting up the timing, so I believe its on the button.
Just spoke to a specialist in Poole who says the EGR may be the problem. When I said I had disabled it by disconnecting the electrical connector and blocking the vacuum pipe, he said it only needs the vacuum pipe to be blocked to disable the EGR, and disconnecting the electrics may cause problems because the injector pump won't know what's going on. I'm going to reconnect the electrics tonight and run it in to this guy tomorrow for another test, and then hopefully a retest and pass at the MOT station Wednesday.
Thanks for the advise.
dave Bright
- (#10505) dave Bright, 15 Sep 03 10:05
Dave, I had this problem and I did exactly what David advises. The local diesel specialists know this Bosch based pump backwards and they will give you the optimum settings for an MOT pass figure of 3 maximum.
Performance DOES suffer, fairly dramatically but, have you had the fuel pump timing checked? When I did the cambelt, shortly before the last MOT test, I was particular on the timing but, the average owner is not able to determine if the pump injection point is correct and the specialist will be able to check this.
I have come to the conclusion that these engines/pumps cannot be adjusted to get an MOT emissions pass, without serious performance loss. I live with the embarrassment of(sometimes) walking speed up serious hills.
- (#10506) John Davis, 15 Sep 03 15:02
Hi John
Thanks for that. When I say “we” I really mean my mechanic, well versed on diesel engines, did it, and I was “supervising” whilst holding the manual. My plan is as David and you suggest, taking it down to the specialist tomorrow to get them to tweak the pump whilst its hooked up to the emissions detector. Failing that, I’ll have to strip the covers off, and check the timing.
- (#10507) dave Bright, 15 Sep 03 16:41
EGR is dumb on these vehicles, but to ensure there's no leaking valves, the manifold ports need blocking off.
Dave re. timing, I believe you're talking about the pulley markings when doing the belt, I'm talking about the orientation of the pump, set using a dial gauge...
- (#10508) david miller, 16 Sep 03 1:54
Thank you David, I had a feeling that the EGR is dumb, but I have reconnected the electrics anyway.
Yes I am talking pulley markings, so I have no idea about the orientation. I'm off to see the specialist soon so hopefully they will work their magic and reduce the smoke.
Thanks
dave Bright
- (#10509) dave Bright, 16 Sep 03 3:18
Hi Dave
I just MOT'd my Townie las week (2ct 4wd 1990). Lowest smoke reading we got was 6.2! It wouldn't come down - so the guy doing the test turned the transfer pressure down slightly on the pump and it passed at about 1.75! He told me if it was a bit gutless after the test to turn it back up a fraction! You're only slightly over so a slight reduction in transfer pressure should get you through OK. I disconnected my EGR long time ago (unplugged the cable connector) and never had any problems with it.
- (#10510) Rob L., 16 Sep 03 3:57
Now I have no desire to upset anyone, or start an argument, so I will tell it like it happened.
I just got back from the specialist who left me in no doubt that he is definitely a specialist. “Its my job, I’m highly qualified and fix hundreds all the time.” I on the other hand seemed to be considered a bit of a moron that shouldn’t have mucked about with something I had no understanding of.
When this chap had finished the test, he announced "nothing wrong with that mate, its well in. Average 2.17". Then I went and said something really stupid which seemed to confirm my moronic stature. I scratched my head and said "how can that be, if it was 4.14 yesterday?" the response was "Well you reconnected the EGR valve didn't you! now the injector pump knows what's going on, and can work properly" In any other situation I might have reacted badly to this, but I gave him a fiver and drove off happy in the knowledge that the smoking issue was behind me, or rather wasn’t behind me any more.
Thanks to all for your help
dave Bright
- (#10511) dave Bright, 16 Sep 03 5:55
I think the in line valve (hoselock or similar from local diy) is a good idea as it blanks the disconnected tube - ... then come MOT time, if necessary just reconnect and open the mini ball valve in a jiff.
- (#10752) chris turner, 16 Sep 03 9:06
Hi Chris
The EGR valve is still disabled because I have left the vacuum hose blocked. I've just reconnected the brown electrical connector and hey presto emissions are nearly halved to well within the maximum for the MOT, and no loss of power because I haven't had to adjust the smoke screw or the maximum fuel screw.
By the way I have re read my last posting and I hope David John and Rob don't think the moron quote referred to any one else but me.
Regards
dave Bright
- (#10753) dave Bright, 16 Sep 03 9:20
Oh, Glad I didnt get round to finding my electrical control then! ...
- (#10754) chris turner, 16 Sep 03 12:03
Just to sign this one off, passed MOT with an official figure of 2.58 (1st 3.01, 2nd 2.53, 3rd 2.22)
Special thanks to David for nudging me in the direction of a specialist. Like you say I could have mucked about with it for ages.
Thanks all
dave Bright
- (#10755) dave Bright, 18 Sep 03 5:58
when i turn hard right or left or drive off of a curb i get this unholy clunking noise coming from the wheel areas. when i bought it the dealer told me it was the 4 wheel drive springs.
Also i have noticed that when i put my foot on the brake ( when the engine is off) the side lights and dash illumination comes on, am i going mad or does this always happen.
- (#11557) matt moore, 6 Nov 03 11:51
You should have started a new thread Matt.
4WD springs eh? That's a good one, your dealer sounds very clued up!
Is the noise a metallic clatter? If it is then you may have the same problem as me. If you waddle the front drive shafts and there is a fair amount of play, also you may get a similar noise if you grab the top of the tyres and rock them. If you do then your inner bushes in the steering knuckle are probably worn. Mine have been bad for over a year now but passed the MOT as they aren't detrimental to the general running of the van. It's a job I intend to get around to one day. The parts are readily available and cost about £18 per side. You'll have to strip the hub, remove arms and drive shaft to get at them though. Not a 5 minute job I'm afraid.
As for your electrics. Your dealer might tell you it's a safety feature. I rather suspect someone's been dicking with the wiring for your lights. Worth taking the sidelight clusters out and taking a look.
- (#11558) Ian Dunse, 7 Nov 03 2:03