doe's anyone know the pads part number thanks

- (#10668) dave, 2 Sep 03 17:35

model?
try looking at the part numbers page on this site too...

- (#10669) david miller, 3 Sep 03 1:14

Hi we got our front pads from Halfords, just went in and gave them the details and they got them for us the next day :) Hope this helps

- (#10670) Hazel, 3 Sep 03 5:45

There are cheaper and better deals to be had away from dealers and Halfrauds. Take an old pad to your local factor for a match. Typically they are the same as a SpaceCruiser and should be in stock, although some models do vary.

- (#10671) Ian Dunse, 3 Sep 03 6:03

I have just recently bought a townace auto 2wd td, my probelm is that I noticed a screaming noise started evertime I started the van, which was coming from one of the belts.............Today, whilst driving I lost all my brakes and all the lights on the dash would be constantly on.........So I figured the belt was the cause of the probelm as when I had taken a look it was frayed ..............can someone enlighten me?

- (#10964) Graham Bown, 2 Oct 03 17:09

Hello Graham
Sounds like your frayed belt has broken.This will have been the alternator belt, and the alternator has a vacuum pump attached to it. Without this the brakes and quite a lot of toys stop working.

Have a look at the archives for the part numbers for all the belts, and whip the drivers floor out and replace them.

Caution....
I would strongly advise that you also change the cam belt. If that goes the same way, you will be looking for a new engine. If you dont feel up to the task of changing belts, get a mechanic to do it for you
- (#10965) dave Bright, 3 Oct 03 1:20

Cheers Dave, much appreciated, not so much a good start as I've just I have just bought the van, alternators have been a on going probelms through my driving history, presuming the reason for changing all the belts is because of if one goes its a good sign to say that the other belts are of the same age + how big of a job is replacing the cam belt and a brief idea on prices?.Thanks again Graham

- (#11007) Graham, 4 Oct 03 8:07

So far as Cam belts go, its not too difficult, just time consuming. To give you some idea, the drivers seat needs to come out, followed by the floor, then remove the radiator cowling, then remove the viscous coupling, remove up to three belts and pulleys, remove the bit that holds the VC, and then you can start to remove the cam belt housing to access the cam belt.

Prices vary, but in essence Toyota are expensive compared to ADL blue print. Click on the home page link on the BOK, that will take you to Marks home page which has a parts page. Part numbers and prices are there.

If you have never changed a cam belt before, its best to find a good mechanic, mobile or otherwise.

- (#11008) dave Bright, 4 Oct 03 9:31

Dave, I'm going for gold, at the weekend I whipped out the seat, floor and so on to access my belts, I found it easy. One remark I can say is that the spacing between the pulley wheel and the nut to adjust the slider on the vacum pump was very tight.Anyway I replaced the alternator belt and everything is running great.Next weekend I'm going to change the cam belt myself, I'm no mechanic but aslong as it easy and recall every moveit will be alright .........Is there anything else that I should check , when having all the flooring out.....................sorry another question , I have a turbo timer called fiz in my van, do these come as standard?

- (#11212) Graham, 13 Oct 03 7:50

Hi Graham.
First thing your going to need is an engine manual RM025E. Dave Mason's on line handbook says You can get it from Wight Motors Ltd telephone 01983-405551 ask for David Coombs (Parts Manager). Price £8.99 incl. postage.

When you have it all apart again, before you remove the old belt make sure you have the timing set at top dead centre. That way if any one pulley moves, then you only have that one to line back up. Its also useful to familiarise yourself with how the timing marks look, and exactly where they line up against. Only one final note of caution, The advise from my mechanic is always fit a new belt. If in a couple of months you find the belt has to come off again, don’t refit the same one. They are only supposed to be tensioned once.

Good luck
dave Bright

- (#11213) dave Bright, 13 Oct 03 8:51

Cheers Dave, I'll let you know the out come.

- (#11214) Graham, 14 Oct 03 8:40

new pads fitted and brkes bled and re-filled but still fade sometimes especially when moving in slow traffic. come back when pumped......any ideas please.

- (#11257) jim eaton, 17 Oct 03 13:31

Jim. "......any ideas please"
For the brake pressure to reduce, there must be a loss of fluid somewhere or, some air still in the system. I assume that you have checked all the connections, hoses, cylinder and caliper seals etc, for any sign of weeping fluid and, did you remember to bleed the nipple on the rear brake compensator valve?
When you bled the brakes, did you "stroke" the master cylinder piston to the bottom of the master cylinder bore,ie, brake pedal to the foor? On these older vehicles, there is, inevitably, some corrosion at the bottom of the m/cylinder bore, ie, where the piston and seal never normally travel. It is easy to tear the piston seal and, brake bleeding should be only be done by short strokes of the brake pedal and, to be safe, with a block under the pedal to restrict it's travel.
If you cannot find any more air in the system, or any fluid leaks, I think that you might have to check the master cylinder piston seals.

- (#11258) John Davis, 17 Oct 03 15:02