I dread the thought that this might be a head gasket but here goes :-
2CT liteace - Engine had overheated previously 4000K ago. After filling slowly with water, with engine running problem disappeared.
Added antifreeze two weeks ago - dont know if thats relevant.
Driving tonight the front heater went cold. Rear heater still blew hot air.
Don't know what the temp guage read as I was'nt driving.
Driver pulled over and lots of steam enveloped the vehicle.
When I arrived overflow tank was dry. I slowly filled with water through the radiator cap ( engine running ) until full and drove 1 mile home.
Problem is the pipe to the overflow tank is blowing air ( with a little - foamy water )out. when I stop the vehicle ( lots of bubbles and gurgles ) and remove the rad cap it always takes a little water. Front heater blows hot and cool depending on the revs- hi revs - hot. I can't seem to ever stop the need for water.
No obvious signs of a leak.Does puff smoke on start up ( think it always did a little ) But no clouds when Im driving. No signs of grey oil on dipstick or black soot in rad water.
Any suggestions welcome.

- (#7013) stephen judge, 29 Nov 03 17:14

If the front heater is cold then probably not enough coolant in.
Anti freeze has excellent creep properties and will leak out of system easier than water - so if the mix is too strong some may creep out on an older vehicle.
Is the pick up tube in the expansion tank attatched firmly?
Start engine from cold with pressure cap off and look for exhaust bubbles in the coolant (head gasket)

- (#7013) chris turner, 29 Nov 03 19:05

Yea, I've got loads of bubbles in the rad filler pipe when the engine is cold. So head gasket is a real possibility.
But could it be Turbo related. I seem to remember information on the 2CT turbo being water cooled.
- (#7013) cold heater / overheated, 30 Nov 03 6:09

Oh-oh... Check the rad cap carefully.
A sure test for the h/g is to ensure that the system is full of water, then attach a pressure gauge to the system. The expansion pipe is as good a place as any.(even just immerse the end of the hose in a glass of water...)Ensure that the rad cap is on tightly, then start the engine. There should be NO pressure build up for the first few minutes. If you've in excess of the 13psi the cap will withstand in the first couple of minutes, you got a head problem.

On the good side, if the rear heater was still hot, then at least the system wasn't dry. So the likelyhood is that you're only looking at a gasket, the head should be OK...

- (#7013) david miller, 30 Nov 03 6:16

David
The overflow pipe pressurises from the moment the vehicle is started. But I suspect I've a dodgy rad cap seal anyway. With the rad cap off you have you own personal shower :)
Pulled the head off. Struggled with the Dip stick clip against the block and the rear inner exhaust bolt. Hav'ent a clue how I'm going to get it all back together in the right order !
There was only 1/2 " of water in No 4 cylinder- is that not OK :)
There's little evidence apart from No 4 cylinder having water that the gasket is gone.
Is it normal on removal for the gasket to be delaminated ?
The coolant holes between the centre cylinders are a bit clogged. What is the best way of cleaning these and how big should the be ?
Can anyone confirm the torque setting for the head bolts are 33 LBS per fT but what does +90C +90C mean ?
Is this not a very low torque setting ?
Also now that the coolant system is open what is the best way to flush all the potential gunge out of it. Someone had suggested Caustic soda, but I'm loath to use that as residues would attack the Aluninium head.
Head gasket set £77 + vat, replacement bolts £2.20 + vat,Rad cap reduced to £10 + vat.
Think I should order a thermostat to be on the safe side ?
- (#7013) stephen judge, 1 Dec 03 17:54

33 LBS per fT is the torque setting, then tighten each bolt by 90degrees then tighten each bolt by 90 degrees again

New thermostat and thermostat O-ring would be good, and if you can stretch to it, replace the water pump as well, less than £40 for ADL replacement.

- (#7013) dave Bright, 2 Dec 03 02:26

Phew. Only 1/2". You know, I thought you might have a problem, LOL.
Get the head up to OD Cars for a light surface and pressure test. Well worth it. And check carefully for cracks especially at no.4... Also take the opportunity to clean out the intake ports and check the exhaust manifold for flatness.
Re the delamination, depends on the gasket. Latest spec is a laminated, multishim job- OEM one is worth paying for. Likewise, throw a stat in, just to be safe...

- (#7013) david miller, 2 Dec 03 03:02

Stephen. In my opinion, those coolant holes, between the cylinders, are often overlooked but, they do get "gunged" up and flow is much restricted. I find that a drill bit, held securely in a pair of grips or the chuck of an inactive power drill clears them quite well. They are drilled at an angle so be careful that the drill bit enters at the right angle to avoid breakage. A piece of tape, wrapped around the shank of the drill, will prevent it dropping into the waterway should it come loose from the grips or drill chuck. Use a progressively larger bit until the hole is clear.
Yes, caustic soda might be harmful but, with the bottom hose/thermostat disconnected, a flow of water, through the coolant passages, will shift much of the foreign matter and, when the engine is running again, one or two drains & re-flushes will help prior to adding your inhibitor/antifreeze.
It will go together quite easily and I found that fitting the inlet manifold, to the head, prior to installation, does help. I assume that you have the engine manual RMO25E. It is almost essential when carrying out this job.

- (#7013) John Davis, 2 Dec 03 04:06

Just when I thought the hard work was done and it was a simple case of skin the head and rebuild.
Did'nt need to do a pressure test to see the cracks in the head. Huge crack between valves on cylinder 4. Smaller cracks on Cylinder 4 precombustion chamber and between valves on No 1 cylinder :(
Anyone out there got a Cylinder head for a 2CT ?
If I have to spend £500 with BBC spares for one, I would be temped to cut my losses and scrap the vehicle.
- (#7013) stephen judge, 2 Dec 03 14:01

Have you tried Beatties/ Eddie Torrens/ Chris Wells (Glengormley engine/ cylinder head house)? Remember that any 2C head will do, just need some fittings shifted.
Funny, that's what happened to me the first time- got the thing all built up without even noticing the crack. Only realised when I heard the drip of coolant inside the cylinder :-(

Stephen, yours is too new and clean to scrap!

- (#7013) david miller, 3 Dec 03 02:57

David -
Many thanks for your info and kind words. ( the support was appreciated )
I tried all three of your suggested sellers and got a positive with each ( of which I was amazed ).BTW Grahams also said they had one ( but would have to check ??? )and would accept £100. Beatties, price was( £100 )and are removing a head off a 2Lt Turbo Camry. They assure me it is (a) a Turbo ( as I believe the valves are different on a STD diesel )(b) the same 18 bolt configuration that a 2CT has(c)that the vacuum is off the alternator as I require and (d) the heads are interchangeable, its only the stroke length of the piston thats different with larger CC's - they assure me ??. I've e mailed them photos of my head just to be sure. I've asked them to confirm to me its a good head and that there is no evidence of any cracks before I take 2 hours driving all the way there and back to Belfast. It's not the first time I got a wrong description off them. The dilemma is that its no guarantee thats it's a "flat" head. I could get an alternative one at £250 thats been reconditioned but the seller can't say for certain if its got 2CT valves ( recondition was done by a third party ). Which means changing and grinding in the valves and resetting the cam shaft shims I believe.
So its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other !!
I've photographed most of the dissassembly process and will do the same with the assembly - should anyone require it.

- (#7013) stephen judge, 3 Dec 03 17:02

I'd go with the one from Beatties, but spend the extra to have OD fettle it...

- (#7013) david miller, 4 Dec 03 02:38