I checking to make sure my timing is correct after rebuilding the cylinder head on my liteace 2CT.
Fuel pump is bled and it does’nt want to start. Glow plugs are working OK as is the fuel cut off solenoid.
The pump timing mark is easy.
The cam shaft mark is less so. It’s meant to be level with the head – that’s a bit vague – Is it level with gasket or rocker box cover or is it the metal cylinder head. Sounds like I answered my own question there, but clarification would be appreciated.
The crankshaft timing is my main issue.
I could’nt find the Oil pump pointer ( referenced page EM20 of the manual ) when I took the head off ( I was trying to leave everything timed for easy reassembly ). It turned out I was’nt looking closely enough as it is hidden away close to the edge of the crankcase and the inside pulley.
Can anyone confirm, when the crankshaft pulley slot and this pointer are aligned, the engine is at top dead centre and in its timing position.
Can anyone confirm the slot in the bottom pulley is – just that -a narrow slot like a hacksaw cut, not a V shaped slot. ( I have a few nicks out of my inside pulley )
As I said I could’nt find my oil pump pointer on disassembly.
So before I reassembled every thing – I set the cam shaft mark as best I could, Set the pump mark and was happy with that. To set the crankshaft I brought NO1 piston to TDC ( as best I could without a dial guage ) and then painted a timing mark on the bottom pulley and the bottom timing cover.
Now that I having trouble starting the vehicle I’ve finally found this oil pump pointer.
Trouble is when I set it to the narrow slot I found in the Bottom pulley My timing is off against the marks ( 15deg ) that I made supposedly against TDC.
The new head was off a Camry. Found that the Cam shaft pulley had an extra couple of teeth _ so I had to put my old one on.
All help appreciated.
- (#7115) Stephen Judge, 7 Dec 03 11:50
Stephen,
the pointer on the oil pump is a tiny taper sticking out of a hex- head at around the 7- o'clock position. Might be covered in crud. The nick the it matches on the outer pulley is SMALL. There's only a fingernail's bredth between the pulley and marker.
Go to page EM33 and it confirms the cam belt markings (with the pulley off if necessary)
One tooth out and it might not start- and the cam pulley marker lines up with the head surface.
David
- (#7115) david miller, 7 Dec 03 12:16
David,
Reset timing against the oil pump pointer ( I was a tooth out )
Engine is trying to start but can't sustain combustion if I release the ignition key. Its firing on all fours some of the time but not all of the time.
Not having removed so much of a diesel engine before I don't know what to expect on reassembly.
Is it normal for them to be a pig to start.
Any ideas from all you guys that have done this before, would be appreciated.
- (#7115) stephen judge, 7 Dec 03 14:49
Yup, normal. Still a bit of air in the system, or (possibly) you've omitted to connect some of the glowplug wiring, getting no afterglow...
I'll go with the air tho- keep it churning, and get the throttle wide open when it DOES fire.
- (#7115) david miller, 7 Dec 03 16:13
I was in the process of updating my problem with ----Each time I get enough oomph in the battery for a fast crank it seems to run for longer and faster with the starter still engaged. I did think a wide open throttle helped it.------ When my bro arrived and suggested another try. It started after a short bleed of the injector pipes.
It now starts first kick, idles eeenly and revs smoothly.
I do notice a little oil in the radiator water as I topped it up - no evidence of water in the sump oil.
PLEASE tell me this is normal after such a rebuild !!!
- (#7115) stephen judge, 7 Dec 03 17:48