anyone...?
I am trying to test a voltage regulator, but I don't know what the term 'pulled in' means..
thanks,
ruari
- (#7949) ruari, 18 Jan 04 07:01
out of context it could mean a number of things. but normally, when referring to a relay or other electromechanical contacts, "pulled in" means with the coil energised or the contacts driven to their activated state. in this case you're talking about a contact going from open to short circuit.
however, "pull in voltage" refers to a voltage level at which this change of stat happens.
hth
- (#7949) david miller, 18 Jan 04 09:32
ruari,
David is right that pulled in is when the relay coil is enerised(it when you hear the relay click in,it when the coil has a live supply across it terminals)and when the relay is at REST it means no voltage across the coil terminals,
also bear in mind that some relays go from short circuit to open,it depends how it made and what it for
some relays/contactors you can pull them in manually by pushing a level or arm.you need to look at the operation of the device by gently seeing which way it moves and you will see how it works
if you pull in a relay and you should be looking for a resistance reading of 0 ohms but instead you get a reading of 70 ohms then it would indicate that the contacts within the relay are pitted and need cleaning if you can see the contacts and get to them you could clean them yourself using a very fine nail file,you are after making the two pitted surfaces has smooth as you can and looking for that 0 ohms reading again,
remember that most low voltage ohm meters will not show 0 ohms has you still have the resistance in the test leads unless the meter allows you to short out the leads and you can zero meter,as long as your readings are 0.2 or below them that would be a good low reading.
dennis
- (#7949) dennis, 18 Jan 04 13:34
dennis
In the diagram you sent me, the first test is between two of the terminals, (IG and F) and says I need 0 resistance 'at rest'. When I test these two, I get some resistance (depending on the setting on the multimeter, but always above 1)-this is with the whole unit removed from the car. Am I to assume I have to replace the whole regulator, or can I try and replace the component which is on the end of these two points (which is a little flattish silver box)
bear in mind that all this started from connecting the battery backwards, and I know my alternator is Ok and none of the fuses have blown.
thanks for any guidance. I started off paddling and the water is pretty much up to my neck now. A couple more steps and I am out of my depth....
- (#7949) ruari, 18 Jan 04 14:02
ruari,
your mutimeter should have settings 200,2K,20K,200K,2M,20M,200M OHMS
you need to set dail on the lowiest setting of 200 ohms
then try again to test (G1 AND F)if you still get reading of 1 ohm it would indicate contacts need cleaning you need to have 0.1/0.2 but no more,you are in a position of trying to find a fault due to connecting your battery back to front,remember your alternator will kick out a ac charge before the rectifier (which is fitted on back of alternator)the rectifier converts ac voltage into dc voltage,you could of damaged the rectifier which would not put out a charge and your charging (red)light will stay on when engine is running,
dennis
- (#7949) dennis, 19 Jan 04 03:06
The auto-electrician who tested my alternator told me it works fine - so he must mean that it is kicking out the required amount of dc voltage, yes ?
if so, and bearing in mind that I get a reading of 1 on the 200 setting of my multimeter it must be my regulator at fault, mustn't it ?
thanks,
ruari
- (#7949) ruari, 19 Jan 04 04:51
ruari,
I am sending you 2 wiring circuits one with ic regulator and one without ic regulator! what one is yours.
i would check starting from your battery all connections are nice and tight and work your way towards alternator,it is looking like a problem with your regulator.
have you checked the voltage out put on terminal B on alternator it should be 14.2 volts dc.
look at the e-mail i have sent you it might help you understand the make up of the charging system.
dennis
- (#7949) dennis , 19 Jan 04 07:43
ruari,
i am having problems sending e-mail to your e-mail,send me a e-mail to me so i can sent wiring circuits to you of charging systems
dennis
- (#7949) dennis, 19 Jan 04 07:51
Thanks for your email, I did get it. Finally i got a new reg from Lucas for 35 pounds and all is working perfectly. Now I can turn my attention to the faulty slider on the door....
Thanks again for all your help, it has taken me a bit of time, but I have lerant some valuable stuff, which was partly my objective, really.
Thanks again, Ruari
- (#7949) ruari, 21 Jan 04 04:18
Could you post up the part number of the Lucas regulator? Thanks clive
- (#7949) Clive (Bristol), 21 Jan 04 08:17
ruari
well done,can you post up part number to regulator.i think we all learn valuable information as a result of your problem and it put us all in a position to help ourself's or other's.
dennis
- (#7949) dennis, 21 Jan 04 10:00
Would you believe I just flicked through an old Lucas (Joe Lucas, Prince of Darkness...) catalogue, and found two external regulators for toyota. Pinout differs slightly.
NCJ400 has both pins 3&5 to Field
NCJ408 pin5 to the warning light, pin 3 Field.
- (#7949) david miller, 21 Jan 04 10:12
thanks dave,
i wonder if they are the same part numbers as ruari.
can you confirm ruari.
many thanks
dennis
- (#7949) dennis, 21 Jan 04 17:18
Joseph Lucas may have been the Prince of Darkness, or is it lightness?, but he knew how to treat his women. I had one of his ex-mistresses (and I do mean the plural) who used to be a good customer of mine & he gave her a brand new MGB Roadster back in the seventies, complete with evey Lucas optional extra, including Air Con ( a real luxury in those days) and a lovely brass spare bulbs case. I guess that's what money can buy you. Unfortunatley the lady concerned is also no longer with us.
- (#7949) Rob Drinkwater, 21 Jan 04 17:50