(Home) Electronic battery decharging nightmare

Well, after all the fault finding, the probelm carries on.To recap, starting probelm which ended up in me buying a new battery,Then the battery drained, so we test the alternator and its was fine,But we did find out that there was a 7amp drain constantly on which could not be identify throught the fuses, so I bought a cap which enable me to cut the battery supply when not driving. I drive from Bristol to Cardiif every day for work, but the probelm is still there, even when I disconnect the battery when not driven.Today My battery drained totally in a round trip.Any advice?

- (#8610) Graham, 17 Feb 04 14:54

I can only summise that your device is not cutting off all power sources, the battery is faulty or there is a short between the battery terminals sometimes caused by water/condensation if the top isn't clean.

On a long run even with a drain you would expect the alternator to counteract that. Must be something wrong with the charging circuit.

- (#8610) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 18 Feb 04 00:56

Batteries (both of them) are clean and dry. Both batteries tested by garage who said they are fine holding charge when not connected, 7 volts is being used somewhere when connected. Charge rate when running at 14.8v.
Assuming the battery switch is a total cut off, in that it does not allow a trickle for radio settings to be saved, I an even more confused than at the weekend.
Did you buy a tester? Can you check for voltage between the switch on off, and the battery terminal?
If there is still 7 volts showing then the switch does not do it's job, if zero then the battery(s) are faulty or the alternator lies when tested.
Any ideas out there in the great pool of Toyota electrickery?

- (#8610) Clive (Bristol), 18 Feb 04 01:13

The US Van guys have identified a problem that sound similar, although they only have petrol.

They talk of a 'fuseable link' in the line to the starter that gets corroded - if I understand correctly, in a similar way to the white buildup you can get on the battery terminals. This causes increased resistance, and can also cause a temporary short/drain on the battery.

I believe the diesel Townies have a similar thing, but I am not sure where it would be.

They link this as the cause to battery drain, hard starting, and also alternator failure.

Maybe something to look at?

Dave.

- (#8610) DaveW, 18 Feb 04 18:24

Cheers for the feed back, I haven fitted the switch yet so ever time its parked I have totally disconnected the battery......? + If I remeber righty , the charge rate was 13.7 which was low but not low enough for my alternator to charge the battery, I take a look at the main power leads to see if the they corroded under the van.Cheers Graham

- (#8610) Graham, 19 Feb 04 04:20

Does all quiet mean you have solved it?

- (#8610) Clive (Bristol), 28 Feb 04 09:17

Sorry for the long delay, but work has had the best of me...........Right, bought a volt meter, battery reads 12.93v without the engine running, then with the engine running it read 12.23v, presummed that the alternator is not charging.? Then today, I took a reading of 12.67v before setting off to work+ without useing any heat, radio, lights etc: Tonight the meter showed me 12v, also to add that I have been disconnecting the battery each time its parked. So for some reason the drain is not as much as it was with out changes anything, but according to my readings at the weekend the alternator output is not enough to run the van efficienly. So basically I'm more confused than ever?

- (#8610) Graham, 3 Mar 04 14:45

found the best way to see if the alternator is charging is to drive upto wall at night keep engine running and turn every electric item on while on tickover then rev engine, lights and heater fan should get brighter and run faster, if not alternator not giving full charge....

- (#8610) neil rolfe, 3 Mar 04 15:12

7Amps is lot of current to drain when doing nothing. Whatever it is, it must be gatting heated a LOT 7A * 12V = 84W (as hot as Ur head lights). In a morning, before starting, just connect the batterly leads and keep it for 5~10 minutes, and check the alternator / starter ... and so on for heat. When U R driving, battery is not draining means Ur alternator is working. However, there may be extra 7Amp load on it.

Harshana

- (#8610) Harshana, 22 Mar 04 04:38

It sounds to me like you have a duff alternator, i would have a close look, i would suspect the bridge rectifier as having a short diode, personally, just from what you describe, but be very aware, 7 amps is enough to cause a fire.

Bon chance.
Simon

- (#8610) Master Simon, 22 Mar 04 15:22