Hello all,
I've just fitted a pair of new british made gas struts to my masterace (950 newtons each strut as against 750 newtons original fitment) and I'm having difficulty adjusting the striker and the two outboard guides to get a satisfactory closure. If adjusted with all the windows and doors closed, I get a bounceback when slamming the tailgate down resulting in the catch holding on the first click position which leaves the interior lights on. If a door or window is open when slamming the tailgate there is no build up of air pressure and it shuts and locks correctly.
Readjusting to give a better result with the windows and doors closed results in an annoying rattle from the lock! Now the questions...
Can anyone measure the distance from the back edge of the plastic/rubber locating disks to the edge of the tailgate and also the relative position of the striker plate to the floorplan (screw centres would do). This is to allow me to check the basic alignment of the tailgate. The "shut lines" look reasonable.
Do you have to slam your tailgate very hard to fully close or just gently close it? Does opening a window change the result? I've checked/ cleaned the flaps within the tailgate vents and they are working.
This might seem trivial but when my better half closes the tailgate it frequently doesn't fully lock hence leaving the interior lights on and flattening the battery. Cheers ... Ray

- (#10254) Ray Ambler, 19 Apr 04 19:19

Ray, the little rubber buttons on the tailgate should be near-as-dammit touching the body- the bottom ones will, the middle ones might not. The discs on the side are harder so best way I've found to deal with them is to loosen them towards the back of the car before adjusting the striker for a nice clean closure. Then slide them forwards but leave the bolt slack, before slamming the door a couple of times. This'll get them into a good position (they're only guides, not holders)and you can then tighten them down... You shouldn't be twisting or bending the tailgate as it latches.
Oh and BTW, make sure the latch is well lubed and free or it'll cause you trouble too. The little spring in the latch broke in mine and that affects the "feel" of the latch.

- (#10254) David Miller, 20 Apr 04 00:14

Thankyou Dave
Yes, I've been adjusting the hard disks as you suggest and coating them with grease to leave a trace mark on the bodywork to assist with getting the position right. They are presently all the way forward. Last year I ground the rivits out of the lock to open it up for maintenance. I made new electrical contacts and cleaned all the rubbish out. When "triggered" with a screwdriver it works like a well oiled mousetrap!
Any comments on air pressure in the townie effecting closure? When locked can you move the bottom edge of the tailgate forward with ease or is it under tension?
Cheers ... Ray
info .... The tailgate struts now fitted were manufactured to pattern and can be supplied with your choice of pressure. They look good and are CHEAPER than the advertised second hand ones!

- (#10254) Ray, 20 Apr 04 01:44

All you need is for the doorseal to contact the tailgate the whole way round. Maybe bringing the striker out a little would help?
Can't see airpressure being an issue, it isn't normally. More likely that your new struts have a touch more resistance at the end of their travel than stock. Dunno.

- (#10254) David Miller, 20 Apr 04 12:44

David, If I open the front sunroof the problem goes away! Same symptom with old weak struts. I'm wondering if this tailgate is distorted top to bottom (maybe accident damage before import) because there are 2 small tears in the bodywork at the bottom corners within the numberplate recess. I'll keep trying!

- (#10254) Ray, 20 Apr 04 13:34

It IS an air pressure thing, when we shut our tailgate, with all other orrifices closed, you have to give it a sharp bang to close it, if any other window or door is open, just drop it from 3/4 down & she latches shut OK. I guess it's a sign that the rest of the car makes a good seal.

This is why cars such a Vauxhall Tigras open the sunroof just as you shut the door, to get around the air pressure prob.

HTH Rob.

- (#10254) Rob Drinkwater, 20 Apr 04 14:58

Strange. Never remember having to fight with mine, and it certainly was easier to close after fitting the new tailgate and latch...

- (#10254) David Miller, 20 Apr 04 15:13

Hello all,
First problem sorted was a slightly twisted tailgate (15mm at the bottom edge). Wooden block placed on bumper off side and push nearside closed. Took about two minutes of repeated pushes to straighten. Result? No change! Next I removed all the rbbber guides to eliminate them. No change again. Still needed to slam really hard to close properly. Readjusted striker many times but when set so it locks, there was enough slack to cause a loud rattle. Now the answer! I increased the diameter of the striker bar by wrapping six turns of pvc insulation tape around it (after degreasing) and now it clicks onto the striker with a gentle press from about 4" open.(no rattles either) As it closes slowly now without a slam, the air has time to escape and does not cause the previous bounce. Probably all down to worn striker & catch mechinism. We live and learn ! ... Ray

- (#10254) Ray Ambler, 20 Apr 04 17:06

Ah-ha. Must admit I'd discounted that- I had to weld up the striker on mine to compensate for the original latch being so worn, and it was a "snug" fit in the latch on the repalcement tailgate...

- (#10254) David Miller, 21 Apr 04 00:27