the fact that i am losing coolant throught resovoir overflow hose, and water rythmycally spouts from radiator fill nozzle when rad cap is removed (these symptons after overheating during a highway driving) is leading me to belive i have a blown head gasket. no oil in the water or vice versa, thankfully. i have a 1991 liteace w/2ct diesel. i am following the repair manual. some background, i've ordered the add-on temp sensor alarm, replaced the thermostat. i am planning to replace the cam belt and water pump while i've got her open.
this is my first go at a job of this magnitude but no choice. i'm in the bahamas and there's no one on island to do it - any and all advice would be of great help.
a few questions..
1) the repair manual tells to remove the turbo-charger before removing the head. this looks unneccesary. i'm opting to remove exhaust manifold and sliding the head out toward the passenger side so that the studs on the head clear the exhaust manifold. i'll remove turbo with better access when head is removed if it looks like it will make dropping the head in place on top of the new gasket. thoughts?
2) may i remove the cam timing pulley from the head while it is on the bench, rather than on the block, why take this off in the first place, as long as i can get the belt off.
2) the manual recommends removing all of the pulleys when changing cam belt, seems to me that after the covers are off, one could switch out the belts without removing pulleys. so long as timing was set properly. i realize that i would still have to pull the crankshaft pulley. any tips on pulling the crank pulley? i went to "tasks" to see the locking unit, but am at a loss as to how this will help remove the crankshaft.
this daunting project is only possible because of the volumes that are available on this site. i'll continue reading up, thanks. ron
- (#10532) Ron Pagliaro, 29 Apr 04 20:53
Ron.
1. Presumably you are using the engine repair manual code RMO25E where it does say "remove the turbo". However, in practice, this is not neccessary and I think that this advice is to make the job a little bit easier, ie, access etc, but, DO cover up the open turbo port as something dropped in here can have disasterous consequences. Yes, remove the manifolds and the head will come away towards the passenger side. You will need an S shaped spanner (14mm I think) to disconnect the ex manifold bolts from the turbo. I have found that fitting the inlet manifold, prior to re-fitting the head, makes the job easier also, check the "flatness" of the exhaust manifold face. If it is warped at all it will need filing flat to avoid stress cracking at a later date.
2. Yes, the camshaft pulley can stay on but, it is prudent to have the head pressure checked for any cracks (especially after any big overheat)or warping, where a light skim is required, and in this case the pulley, camshaft, valves etc have to be removed.
3. If you are only removing the head etc, the injection pump pulley can stay in situ but, if you are replacing the water pump then the injection pump pulley needs to be removed.
The "Tasks" article is only advisory for a system of locking the main pulley bolt and, you are right, it is not advising on the main pulley removal. It is quite easy to make up the puller for getting this item off and I can forward a picture etc if you wish. Don't be tempetd to use a conventional 3 legged type puller on the rim of the pulley, this can easily fracture it.
When the head is off, pay particular attention to the small waterway holes in the block and head, especially those between the cylinders. Any serious build up of debris/corrosion here will restrict coolant flow and they should be carefully opened up.
c.
- (#10532) John Davis (Leics), 30 Apr 04 00:55
Hello Ron,
that is good advise from John, but the fuel pump is also mounted at the back on a bracket that is fixed to the block, so you don't need to completely remove the fuel pump to remove the water pump. Once the head is off, remove all the bolts securing the water pump to the engine, then remove the two bolts on the fuel pump. replace the water pump and re fit the two fuel pump bolts.
I think the pulleys referred to in the manual are the pulleys for the ancillaries like power steering, alternator and Air con pump. These need to come off the crankshaft to expose the timing marks on the cambelt crankshaft pulley. I would advise you to remove the camshaft pulley before removing the head because it will be easier to do it with the head fixed to the engine and the pulley is bigger than the depth of the head, so that it sticks out beyond the bottom of the head once its off the engine.
This is a good time to replace the thermostat, but don’t forget to replace the O-ring seal as well and replace the radiator cap as well.
Good luck
- (#10532) dave Bright (Bournemouth), 30 Apr 04 02:48
John ... I'd be pleased to incorporate your advice/pic about making a puller into the online Ace Handbook, if you'd send it to me as well.
- (#10532) Dave (Sussex), 30 Apr 04 02:50
Thanks for all of your advice, I am back at it today. John it would be very helpful if you could forward a pic etc of the puller that you recommend. Thanks, I'll kep you all posted as I go.
Ron
- (#10532) Ron Pagliaro, 30 Apr 04 07:18
John,
I'm getting ready to pull the crankshaft pulley, could you send pic of the puller that you use. Also, recommendation on looosening the air condo belt driven from crankshaft pulley.
Ron
- (#10532) Ron Pagliaro, 30 Apr 04 16:30
Already sent but, your email address tells me that it is an "autoresponder" and that you will never see the message ! ! ! Have you a working email address which I can send to ?
- (#10532) John Davis (Leics), 30 Apr 04 16:50
"Also, recommendation on looosening the air condo belt driven from crankshaft pulley."
There is an idler pulley which tensions this belt. It is easier to slacken this off from under the vehicle.
- (#10532) John Davis (Leics), 30 Apr 04 16:59
John,
Sorry this a spuratic problem, I'm not sure why, can you try sending again please, Thanks, Ron
- (#10532) Ron Pagliaro, 30 Apr 04 19:25
"can you try sending again please, Thanks, Ron"
Second email & attachments now sent.
- (#10532) John Davis (Leics), 1 May 04 00:56
Sorry to take up more valuable BOK space. Ron, same problem with same response to my email.
- (#10532) John Davis (Leics), 1 May 04 01:01