So, it appears that my clutch master cylinder (the one at the top of the clutch petal seems to have blown it's seals. I've lost all pressure to the back slave cylinder. I've located a place that should be able to order a new part for me, which is good. Problem is, HOW DO YOU GET TO THE THING? I can't even reach it by following the pedal up into the dash. Is there some access to it somewhere? Do I need to hire a midget?
Aside from buying new (and having it delivered from Japan) is there a better option for fixing this thing? I am about 5 weeks out from leaving the country and therefore selling it. I really wasn't looking for an expensive project to have to deal with before I left.
Thanks in advance for any help you folks can give. It is much appreciated.
Joe
- (#11694) Joe Skeesick, 23 Jun 04 05:38
Get to it by removing the upper dash and instrument cluster. Pictures on Ace answers.
- (#11694) Clive (Bristol), 23 Jun 04 05:53
I have just completed this job fitting a master cylinder and clutch pedel to convert from auto to manual. Yes it is a dash out job.
Master cylinder available from ADL No. ADT33447. £60.16. I tried to get an overhaul kit but no joy.
- (#11694) Mark (Dover), 23 Jun 04 06:39
As a matter of interest Mark, what made you change from an auto box to manual? Surely a daunting job. Do you expect to get your money back for the conversion from improved mpg? Or did you simply not like the auto?
- (#11694) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 23 Jun 04 06:44
If its of any use to you, I have a spare one that came from a breaker. If you want it let me know and I will pop it in the post to you.
- (#11694) dave Bright (Bournemouth), 23 Jun 04 06:56
first off... thanks a lot for the information.
i couldn't find any information on ace to tell me how the top dash comes off. am i just missing it?
mark, since you just finished with the same job... how long did it take you to swap out? are there any "gotchas" that i need to be aware of or odd tools that need to be on hand before i tackle this thing?
one other thing that confused me on tracking down this problem. does the brake system and the hydraulic clutch use the same reservoir? i only ask as i never seemed to find the brake reservoir and they both take dot 3.
thanks again fellas
j
- (#11694) Joe Skeesick, 23 Jun 04 07:11
To remove the dash is probaly half a days work and to change the master cylinder no more than a hour, so possible in a day.
Yes the brake and clutch cylinder are both fed from the same reservoir. I think the reservoir has a weir inside so that if the clutch system fails you do not loose the brakes. The clutch part of the reservoir is the front part and is very small. Is it possible you have a leak on the clutch system? Check to see if the front part of the reservoir is MT. It is a pig of a system to bleed. I ended up using a self bleed system operated by air pressure, a bicycle tyre,and pumping the fluid up from the slave cylinder. The system comprises of four parts 1. Master cylinder 2. Accumulator (Under the drivers position) 3. Accumulator (Next to slave cylinder) 4. Slave cylinder. Both accumulators and the slave cylinder have bleed nipples.
I may be worth removing the instrument panel to sight the Master Cylinder. The fluid is supplied by a rubber hose from the reservoir to a banjo fitting on top of the cylinder. This banjo fitting has two copper washers, a possible leak source.
Hope this helps.
- (#11694) Mark (Dover), 23 Jun 04 08:58
Ian
Yes I changed the gearbox to get better MPG. It was advertised on Ebay with all the bits but when I came to offer up the box found two brackets missing so had to make home made ones. In my quest for better MPG I have also disabled the EGV valve and fitted an electric fan. Keeps me off the streets!
- (#11694) Mark (Dover), 23 Jun 04 09:06
So is there a noticeable improvement with the manual box or is it too early to say?
- (#11694) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 23 Jun 04 09:12
well i thought that the clutch was going out (wife was grinding the gears). went out to look at it this morning and noticed the reservoir was low. i filled it up and decided to bleed the lines in case it might of been lower than i thought. the lines bled fairly easily. when the clutch pedal was pressed a nice solid stream of fluid was ejected. however, as soon as i closed off the nipple (on the slave, didn't touch the accumulators) the pedal lost all resistance at all (worse that before i touched it) what i surmise is, that the seals are shot in the master cylinder to a point that the fluid is just flowing right past the shaft.
would you read that the same way?
j
- (#11694) Joe, 23 Jun 04 09:40
To early to say but looks promising. I am also running on Biodiesel so maybe too many changes to quickly. I will keep the board posted when I get some good figures. One advantage of the auto box that I did not consider is the overdrive. Revs at motorway speed are alot higher with the manual box but it may score around town.
- (#11694) Mark (Dover), 23 Jun 04 10:06
Sounds like the same problem I had bleeding the system. I do not know but I suspect that the Master Cylinder does not have a suction valve and that the piston just covers a port. IE it will not pump a such but just move the fluid backwards and forwards. Hence the need to pump the fluid through to get the air out off the system. In theory keeping the reseroir full and letting the fluid flow through the nipple to expel
the air should work but did not for me.
- (#11694) Mark (Dover), 23 Jun 04 10:17