I hope that I am not wasting BOK space, repeating this message, but it seems people have had problems finding this info in the archives. So here it is again; slightly modified for easier understanding - I hope

- (10459) Tony Knight, 29 Aug 03 10:14

I have recently recieved a request for Towbar fitting information for the Toyota Hiace Wagon. So, for those enthusiastic DIY Wagon owners with 1990 models - as I can't speak for later ones - here is my journey through the process of fitting a Towbar.



The important thing is, the outer width measurement across the chassis at the rear of the vehicle; if yours is a 1990 model the shape will be similar to the European Hiace - the ones we get here; which Witter Tow Bars still supply for - that's who supplied mine.

Whether or not they will fit it I don't know. It depends on which outlet or agent supplies you. I fitted my own; which was quite involved due to the fact that there were a lack of captive nut locations on the Wagon to take the supplied bolts - unlike the European model; plus, there was a welded bracket with an eye on the left hand side, which I pains takingly had to remove free-hand using a hack-saw blade in a small plastic handle, and grind down the remaining weld. It took a while (acheing neck and shoulders come as standard, unless you have the luxury of ramp or pit).



There are no holes or captive nuts on that side, bar one; furthest to the rear on the under side of the chassis leg, bolting the filler pipe guard - which, incidently, has to be removed - ( a smaller size bolt but sufficient; just requires a larger diameter heavy duty washer on reassembly ). So, I had to transfer the 2 hole locations from the other side by way of a cardboard template - after removing the bolted tow eye. These holes do line up with those of the outer bracket of the towbar assembly - 2 in number. Use cereal packet cardboard as it's not too thick or thin; cut it to fit snuggly into the corner of the chassis section, covering the holes, but no deeper than the box section depth for alignment purposes. Press firmly around the edges of the holes, which will leave their mark on the plain side of the carboard; pen round the circle, make a pin hole in the centre of each; through which you can mark the left hand side ready for centre punching when you transfer the template - the two sides of the chassis are symetrical so it should fit snuggly. After marking, your eyes or/and a measuring tape should convince you of the template's accuracy - before drilling.



I had to use a 'right-angle' type drill (the chuck being set 90 degrees, as opposed to an ordinary drill) and hole cutter (high grade steel) to drill the 2 holes (no larger than the thread size of the bolt [tight fit]), after first centre punching and drilling a pilot hole with a 1/8 drill. The last hole on the under side of the L/hand Chassis leg ( forward of the filler pipe neck) I disregarded as access was too difficult. The end result, however, still remained - one underbolt on each side.

Next - the rear carpet rolled back to expose the floor, I cut three sides of a 3" x 3" square hole ( using a 1/8 drill and small hack saw blade); folding the metal flap back toward the front of the vehicle, to be later bent back into place and covered with insulation tape; this operation being carried out directly above the box section on the left, half way between the 2 drilled holes, in order to gain access to both bolts with the nuts/flat/spring washers, by way of a ring spanner.

On the r/h side I first drilled out the blank on the underside of the chassis leg and drilled again directly above it with the hole cutter to allow the nut /washers & socket through to the bolt (which is fed from the underside). This hole is later to be taped over.



A flexible magnet is ideal for locating the washers on to the side bolts in the box sections; and a match stick or piece of cardboard keeps the nut held in the ring spanner as you spin the bolt into it, or, in the socket when working from the top - piece of cake!

After partial assembly, in accordance with supplied instructions, make sure all is level and aligned before final tightening of all bolts. Additional high tensile bolts were bought for assembly as the ones supplied were close threaded and had no nuts. Locktite on the threads gives piece of mind, unless you are using nylock nuts.

P.S. I was sure to have the Auto box serviced and have an auxilliary oil cooler fitted, to ensure that there would be no overheating problems with the fluid - it gives a feeling of security when towing.



Well, that's it! I've been towing my Conway folding camper for a while now with no problems.



Have fun!



Tony Knight.



Based in Birmingham, England.

- (#12542) Tony Knight, 5 Aug 04 09:53