(Home) Engine sump removal 2ct 1991 4WD auto

There is only a little about this in the archives. Perhaps it will help, others as well as me, to consolidate the advice here.

I realise it's sealed with "high temperature RTV" which I'll probably need to cut through with a knife once the bolts are out so I'll need good access, and the right stuff to seal it when I put it back. Any tips on what to ask for in order to get the right stuff? (Is this the same stuff to use around the edge of the camshaft oil seal retainer? as described in RM025E)

I've tried to get the a/c compressor belt tensioner out of the way but one of the three bolts is trapped in place by the pulley so I'm wondering whether I really need the whole compressor moved aside anyway, or whether swinging the tensioner around will allow me enough access, or if the pulley/clutch comes off easily.

If I have to move the a/c compressor will the refrigerant circuit remain intact, just moving the compressor a small distance on its hoses? and how many fixings does it have, where? Is it best to take the injector pump off first to get at it?

I realise I have to remove a chassis member. Any special precuations or is the chassis still plenty strong enough?

Also I think the anti-roll bar is in the way. Take it right off or just remove some fixings?

- (#12873) Dave Mason (Sussex), 19 Aug 04 10:08

Dave, I've done this...

A/C comp can stay. Can't just recall how I dealt with the tensioner tho. Maybe took the pulley off the bracket? can't recall.

The crossmember just unbolts, yes. but you'll have to drop the antiroll bar.

You might try a plumbers merchants for the silicone- that's where I get my hi-temp stuff. Way stickier than ordinary bathroom goop. And a much cheaper alternative to little tubes from the motorfactors!

- (#12873) David Miller, 19 Aug 04 11:31

Which crossmember? Sorry to persist with questions, but the answers will be on record for anyone tackling this job.

There's a channel crossing in front of the sump which I can see might be in the way of getting the sump away, as well as hindering reaching some of the bolts. It stabilises the front diff and the a/c compressor pipes.

But there is a round one actually under the sump, which seems to hold the engine mountings and so I guess it's the other one which must be removed?
- (#12873) Dave Mason (Sussex), 21 Aug 04 13:30

Yup, it's the lower one that bolts between the chassis legs and the aircon pipes bolt onto that's got to be removed. When you come to remove the sump, you can pull it out to the front.

- (#12873) David Miller, 21 Aug 04 15:14

More notes ... two tricky sump bolts. One at the back on the driver's side requires removal of a casting which has two bolts into the block and two into the gearbox/bellhousing. One on the passenger side is above the oil level sensor, where you have to remove the little shield (2 bolts, 8mm across or cross-head screwdriver) then the electrical connector (with good light you can see which bit to pry up) and then the whole assembly - 4 more bolts - all to get at one sump bolt!

The chassis member was slightly scary - I wasn't sure how best to support the weight, I had the wheels and the chassis supported but as David Miller implied it came out very straightforwardly though its 4 fixing bolts were, not surprisingly, very tight. Previously 3 bolts released the bracket on the a/c pipes, two released the front diff mounting and 5 released the shield bridging to the the chassis member further forward.

- (#12873) Dave Mason (Sussex), 24 Aug 04 09:20

Dave, what size drive of socket set are you using? I seem to recall 1/4" being sufficient and let me at a couple of bolts the bigger stuff couldn't access...

- (#12873) David Miller, 24 Aug 04 09:37

Yes, for the sump bolts themselves I needed, and used, 1/4" drive. I don't have an extension which can wobble in the socket but I couldn't get the socket alone on to either of the two difficult bolts. On reflection grinding the hex end of the socket, which is the short type anyway, a bit shorter might have made the difference on the driver side one, but that took less dealing with. The one in the corner above the oil level sensor was really tucked away and I had to get the connector off there to be able to remove the sump anyway.

The antiroll bar is still fixed at its ends, but has dropped 80-100 mmm which looks like it will be enough - have not tackled the sump seal itself yet.
- (#12873) Dave Mason (Sussex), 24 Aug 04 10:20

I forgot to say the sump bolt heads are 10mm in case that helps someone prepare for this job in future.

I was able to tap a 120mm "dagger" made from hacksaw blade into the seal at the front, and round the passenger side a bit (swinging the a/c belt adjuster aside, dangling on its last bolt) and then get a screwdriver in to start prising the sump down. No great effort was needed but it seemed to help to give the sealant time to tear away - and the bolts have been out for nearly 48 hours so maybe that helped.

I really had to pull the antiroll bar down hard to get the front lip of the sump past the a/c pipe bracket from off the cross-member. No trouble clearing the oil strainer, so maybe the antiroll bar should've come right off.

There was still a surprising amount of oil in the sump - which promptly sloshed out of the oil level sensor hole. The sump of a diesel engine that's run with a broken piston is a very messy place to work! I hope it gets cleaner from now on, I'm used to electronics.

- (#12873) Dave Mason (Sussex), 25 Aug 04 03:12