as others, am having great difficulty in locating/seeing timing marks. have copy of manual, but still a bit confused - 1st time working on a diesel engine.
q. is it necessary to remove the lower crank pulley cover. if so, does it ned a special puller to remove the belt pulleys.
after fitting new head gasket - engine started without too much effort - only ran for 4 or 5 secs as unsure of timing set up and exhaust manifold was missing several bolts. lots of smoke , but no horrible noises. left overnight - now won't start at all. methinks i may have bug...d (some) valves. oh dear !!!
as a last resort, can anyone recommend a mobile mechanic in the braintree essex area who might help me out.
if only i'd fitted the dm temp alarm beforehand ..





- (#13790) gordon davies, 16 Oct 04 03:48

Bottom belt cover only has to come off for a belt change. The timing mark you're looking for is on the fanbelt pulley, and the belt damn near hides it! It should match with an odd-looking pointer that looks like a nut with a tapered pin atop it.


But if it started and didn't make any odd metallic noises I'd say the timing is pretty close, and your valves should be safe.

The problem is more likely to be related to the glowplug wiring, or an air leak in the fuel system, which has allowed to to lose it's prime overnight. Try repriming the injectors...

- (#13790) David Miller, 16 Oct 04 04:57

I am sure that David is right and, the timing is correct or, very close, and no piston/valve contact has occurred. A bit of bleeding, at the injectors, should make all the difference. That bottom timing mark is difficult to see and, with the belts removed it makes the job easier. Yes, because these pulleys are cast steel and a bit fragile, claw type pullers are not recommended nor is the hammer and drift/lever method. Also, because of it's proximity to the front and underside of the engine, some corrosion/gunge tends to build up and makes the pulley difficult to remove. The puller makes use of the tapped holes which are used to bolt the P/S pulley up to the front face of the double belt pulley. There is a Toyota tool but, the puller is easy to make from scrap materials and I can send you a sketch if it would help. Perhaps you decided not to fit a new belt? If you do remove the pulley, and lower belt cover, for the cost of a new belt, it is a small price to pay for peace of mind.
As David says, there is a bottom timing mark on the double, fan pulley, lining up against an odd looking tapered pin,and this is useful when doing the final checks on the timing. However, if you remove the double fan pulley, there is another guide mark on the bottom toothed cambelt pulley,ie, the grooved one which the belt runs on, inside the cover.

- (#13790) John Davis (Leics), 16 Oct 04 06:15

Wot on earth would us novices do without this super web site and the persons that donate freely and patiently their expertise to others.Would that one day I will be knowledgeable to assist.

- (#13790) gordon davies, 16 Oct 04 15:29

so it's running then?

- (#13790) David Miller, 16 Oct 04 16:24

Dave
No not yet. Tomorrow is the BIG day. Just that with your advices I'm now a lot more confident of sorting out the timing. Fingers crossed that no real damage has been done by attempting to start a bit prematurely.I'm not sure at the moment whether to take a look at the valves before I finish putting back all the bits and pieces, or re re re check the timing and take a chance. Might, if I can find a local mobile mechanic, get him to check it out before I proceed. Unfortunately my "old school" mechanic is away for 3 weeks and finding another is like panning for gold. Guess I was a bit too keen on getting the old bus going again.One learns by one's mistakes. Oh, and I'm going to fit the temp alarm before I do anything else.Should be straightforward as with previous help in disconnecting the speed alarm, I know exactly how to remove the dash etc.I'll let you know how things work out with the "alternative" sender
(from Motaquip) Hopefully by Monday night.

- (#13790) gordon davies, 16 Oct 04 17:31

The sender won't be a problem. It'll have the same physical and electrical characteristics as the original...

- (#13790) David Miller, 17 Oct 04 02:40

Just in case I may have knackered something, I've decided to remove the head and have a butcher's hook before re-fitting all the remaining bits and pieces.
Do you think I'll get away with re-using the head gasket, especially as it really hasn't seen any use so far? or would it be advisable to invest in a brand new one?

- (#13790) gordon davies, 17 Oct 04 15:23

Gordon, I really wouldn't bother. But if you're going to, it'd probably be best to replace the gasket. It's a big job to risk for £30...

FYI, if the timing was off far enough to do mechanical damage either you'd have heard it or the engine would be impossible to turn over.

- (#13790) David Miller, 18 Oct 04 01:53

Nearly there. Could't find timing marks on bottom pulley, so removed pulley/belt cover - found markings -timing was in fact about 3 notches on time belt out. Re-set following instructions from engine manual. Then lived dangerously and attempted engine start before all belts / hoses re-fitted. Started 1st attempt after turning over 3 or 4 times.Engine out out after a few seconds, but only to be expected.
Then ran out of daylight.

PS Bought gasket set from UK Gaskets in Cornwall - the gasket for the lower timing belt cover is wrong. UK say they have suppied some 50 odd of these sets recently without any comeback, and suggested that I contact a main dealer. Do any of you gentlemen happen to know of any differences. It's the black moulded rubber gasket that pushes onto the rim of the cover.

- (#13790) Gordon Davies, 18 Oct 04 18:03

Later whilst brousing Ace Answers - found picture of cover assy. It seems that the gasket supplied is for the upper timing chain cover - the lower one is not included.

- (#13790) Gordon Davies, 18 Oct 04 19:40