She seems less perky than when I bought 3yrs ago. Been great though. Now, 200,000km(import maybe 300,000km) engine may need tinkering, dont know where the plugs and points are? done oil n filter regular, air filter too, and thats all. WHATS NEXT?? Nozzles out and cleaned, or valve clearance set, or what... cheers Frank NZ
- (#13994) frank, 1 Nov 04 08:32
No tell-tale signs such as black smoke/overfueling, just a loss of power. Hard to say after a slow gradual loss over years, but I'd hazard a guess at top and bottom end. No valve clatter either.PS your english vehicles are expensive! but you get more bang for your buck on holiday with pounds or euros or beads and muskets whatever
- (#13994) frank, 1 Nov 04 09:17
2C is a Diesel so doesn't have plugs or points....
After 200k the injectors are probably getting a bit tired. First of all try a bottle of the stuff you chuck in the tank (or I understand that Auto Transmission Fluid is even better - It's just a mixture of light oil and detergent). You wont spot an immediate improvement but over time things should get better.
If you want a more instant kick then pull out the injectors and give them a good clean. This isn't something you can do yourself with washing up liquid and an old toothbrush. Instead you will need to find someone with an ultrasonic bath to do the job properly. Prodding around at the business end could do serious damage as these things are designed to squirt out the fuel in a vapour of microscopic particles.
If they really are knackered then you will need a new set. Probably a Toyota only part although I doubt very much that they ever made the things themselves. Unless of course you know someone who can say "Ah, Denso!" or "Ah, Mitsubishi!" or whoever the actual manufacturer was (For what it's worth most European ones are Bosch).
- (#13994) John, 1 Nov 04 09:28
Nozzles can be changed at any good diesel shop. In the UK, a set of four comes to around £150 fitted and tested...
- (#13994) David Miller, 1 Nov 04 10:05
since my posting and yours have been reading a-answers regarding fuel filter, which i have never changed. without any smoke telltales, should i try this first? i've been known in the past for going off half cocked and making more work for myslf by not being methodical. ah, mr john many thankyou for kind attention to detail and safety of injector car part. so solly for say i change filter but not make clarity as to which one. only oil and air i do. arigato f ps: 3/4 of nz watching trinations this weekend, 3/4 u.k saying tri-wot?
- (#13994) Frank, 1 Nov 04 10:24
Do this first. Changing the fuel filter makes a hell of a difference on most injected engines. Having driven cars with carbs for years and never bothered with the things I was sceptical as to what difference a new fuel filter could make. May as well just paint stripes on it I thought. Then I got an old 5-pot injected VW which was running a bit rough and somehow a clean bit of paper seemed to work an absolute miracle. Think of it as a standard service item and it will probably keep your injectors going for longer too.
- (#13994) John, 1 Nov 04 12:32
Thankyou John, I'll treat her to one this week and let you know. Ta
- (#13994) Frank, 2 Nov 04 13:08
John
Any idea as to the mix ratio for your alternative injector cleaner? Or maybe it tells you on the can !!
- (#13994) gordon davies, 4 Nov 04 13:44
A search on Google Groups for ATF injector cleaner will bring up a couple of hundred discussions on this subject. About a pint a tankful seems to be the crude measure. I did it once with some old stuff I had lying around and wanted to use up. It seemed to work or at least didn't kill anything. But as ATF costs more a bottle than she specially formulated injection cleaner stuff, it's not a particularly useful tip.
See http://groups.google.com/groups?q=atf%20injector%20cleaner&hl=en&lr=&sa=N&tab=wg for a lot more on this
- (#13994) John, 4 Nov 04 17:19
John Thanks for the link and google entry, the words I tried brought up nothing, so I went out and bought a bottle of inj. cleaner. Alot of controversy as to its all round effectiveness, seems good on carbon in chamber? Some people were pouring it into a reved up engine, or letting a vacuum hose suck it up. I'm very conservative in these matters, having done some stupid things before. My tank is full so have to wait to try mixing with fuel. Atf is $20 for 4 litres(.9 gall) cleaner was $11 for 300ml(1/2 pint), I have some lying around, so I'll try that and return the cleaner. Guy Fawkes tonight, the dogs running around barking mad. So much nicer to drive with the power back. ThanksFrank
- (#13994) Frank, 5 Nov 04 01:09
Arrgh. Another message lost to the server...
I wouldn't use ATF- it contains friction modifiers, and in the pump and injectors you're trying to MINIMISE friction.
But what you could try is good quality methoxide-reacted biodiesel. Not the thinned-down WVO stuff, but the real thing. Higher lubricity and cetane, plus proven to dissolve deposits. You only need to run it at B5% or so...
- (#13994) David Miller, 5 Nov 04 02:14
David Never seen any biodeisel in nz, or is this a product from an auto parts shop?
- (#13994) Frank, 5 Nov 04 02:41
A mate in Eugene Oregon USA told me about bd. Try google especially 'greaseworks oregon', its cutting edge there. All the men have beards, pickups and dogs. Heaps of mountains and country air, lots of cool ideas, organics, etc. Sometimes I wish I was there. Very nice people
- (#13994) Frank, 5 Nov 04 03:16
That sounds like where i live!
The Ariege, arse end of france :-)
- (#13994) Paul, 14 Dec 04 10:36