thanks for the advise david but am not sure what pipes to plug off and what to do with the others my right side pipe as got a inline filter on it.and does plugging the pipe reduce problems that seem to appear on this site steve

- (#14138) steve, 12 Nov 04 15:23

Can do. Right. You should have a narrow bore tube coming over the top of the engine fron the vacuum pump (in front of the alternator). That should T somewhere near the expansion bottle, as I recall, with one leg going to the solenoid valves under the aircleaner hose), the other heading back to the EGR solenoid valve. If you've a 4x4, once the vacuum has weaved it's way through the two valves on the chassis leg, it'll then head south in behond the fuel filter and on to the transfer gearbox...

So in order to safely defeat the EGR system and make it's gubbins removeable, find the T where the supply goes those two ways, and seal the leg that goes to the EGR section.

Clear as mud?

- (#14138) david miller, 12 Nov 04 15:46

have noted what you explained to me about egr david just to see if this is right this is what i have done the breather pipe is now on rocker cover to large air filter pipe,the pipe from the turbo inlet large pipe connected to tee piece "f" from there one goes to the injector pump "g" and the other to the pressure switches "d" the right side pipe on the egr with the inline filter thing goes to "k" vacuum diaphragm, the 2 pipes close together on the left side of the egr have taken them off and capped off the one which came from the last of the 2 valves it just came from there and straight onto the egr but now i have capped it off is this all correct?,the only problem i have now i hope is that all the warning lights on the dash come on as normal when ignition is turned on but dont go off when engine starts except the oil can light that goes but everythimg else including turbo lights stay on, have checked fuses they are ok so i am stumped any ideas please steve...townie 2ltr turbodiesel 4x4 auto



- (#14138) steve, 13 Nov 04 09:14

Yup, all your pipework sounds good. Now, your remaining problem is no-charge, or at least the instrument panel thinks you've no charge. Standard test for alternator- start engine, turn headlights on, rev engine, headlights brighten slightly...

If the alternator is working OK then you'll need to trace through the fuses- "gauge" is the one, IIRC, that's critical, but you'll need to double check "ign" and "charge". It's the supply to the battery light that governs what the rest of the warning lights do. Have you a test lamp or a meter?

Now if the battery isn't charging, you'll need to look at the connections atop the alternator, a couple of fuseible links, and the voltage regulator.

Let me know how you get on...

- (#14138) david miller, 13 Nov 04 10:38