Need to have my 2ct rebuilt coz the pistons dont fit the cylinders very well anymore. My mechanic told me I need to buy piston rings and the liner. He also said I need to have those installed by a machine shop, plus main and connecting rod bearings to the crankshaft, and have the crankshaft and flywheel balanced. Oh and a hydrotest on the engine block too.
Anything else I should be doing? I would like to get it right the first time so I want to make sure.
He also mentioned having oversized piston rings if I want more power. Are these a good idea? He said "not bigger than 10,000" on the piston rings if I do decide to do this.
Thanks in advance
- (#14348) Pat, 1 Dec 04 06:34
3 months ago I dealt with a broken piston but was able to do that without removing the block from the car so I didn't go for the option of a replacement (API) engine.
What you're describing sounds more costly than swapping the engine, which will cost about £1,000 incl. VAT and delivery on top of which you've to pay someone to swap them over - which I think has to be done from underneath.
Where are you?
- (#14348) Dave Mason (Sussex), 1 Dec 04 08:36
Your mechanic is full of BS. The 2C engine doesn't have liners, the block is rebored to a 0.5mm oversize.
How do you know the pistons don't fit? Oil consumption is more likely caused by a lack of springyness in the rings. Until the head is off and the bore inspected for wear you can't assume a rebore is necessary. and the pistons don't seem to wear either. A hone and a new set of stock rings would be acceptable.
Likewise, unless you're suffering from low oil pressure I wouldn't see the need to rebearing the crank, and even if it was needed, the crank doesn't need rebalanced- Oh, and if it's an automatic, it doesn't have a flywheel...
Rings, bigends and mains can all be replaced with the engine in-situ. The bores can be honed in-situ. You could freshen the engine up for a couple of hundred pounds. As Clive says, if it needs MAJOR work, the most cost- effective answer is a good secondhand or indeed rebuilt engine.
- (#14348) david miller, 1 Dec 04 09:25
I'm in the Philippines. It doesn't cost as much here. Even with the best machine shop, the whole thing will cost me around us$180. While a 2nd hand engine will cost me a total of us$400.
I failed to mention that we did open her up because of a leaky head gasket, and saw that the pistons were indeed loose. I've noticed for some time the black exhaust and the loss of power. My mechanic said the balancing would be a good idea coz I drive around 800kms a week, half the time at 100km/h or more. Why he wants me to rebear the crank, I don't know. How do I know if the oil pressure is low? What are the symptoms? I don't think I have that problem though.
Thank you very much for the quick response!
- (#14348) Pat, 2 Dec 04 22:45
Oh and mine's a manual. My 2ct was "transplanted". The original 2c (with vacuum on top) also suffered from pistons being loose.
- (#14348) Pat, 2 Dec 04 22:59
Well, an oil pressure test BEFORE the head was removed would be favorite. But, simple question- did the oil pressure warning light (red oil can) switch off as soon as the engine starts, and not flicker back on again at idle? If it went out and stayed out, your oil pressure is likely to be fine.
If the vacuum pump on your original engine was on top, this must be quite a new car, no? Surprised you have finished two engines by now. How many kms in total?
Like I said before, it's NORMAL for the pistons to look loose. What is important is that the rings seal tightly, and a compression test will verify that. Pity THAT wasn't done either before the head was removed.
Remember that a lack of power and black smoking could be caused by something as simple as a blocked air filter, alternatively the fuel injectors could need refurbishment or the pump need adjustment. Does the engine have EGR? If so has the valve been tested for leaks?
It just strikes me as odd that the engine is condemned so quickly, without any though being given to other factors.
- (#14348) david miller, 3 Dec 04 01:32
I've had workshops tell me this and that needs doing, when in fact cheaper alternatives are all thats needed. Lawyers often approach a case with: how can I get the most money for the least amount of work. So do mechanics...
- (#14348) Frank, 5 Dec 04 06:33
i ve replace a 2ct engine on my townace.No problem in the beginning- after about 250 km, i have to activate the heater to start even if i the engine is warm.Previously at one start even in the morning would suffice without the heater.
- (#14348) vikash, 6 Dec 04 07:36
When I first got it the engine had around 80,000kms on it. Around 150k it became difficult starting it in the morning but once you get it running it was ok the whole day. Then at around 180 the engine died suddenly so naturally my reaction was to restart.
What I didnt know was that with the timing belt broke it was a big no no.
So I got the 2ct. It had around 60,000kms on it. It was so much better than the original engine. Uses less fuel, got more power and it wasnt as noisy. Its now at 210,000kms.
Its got a simota air filter. The nozzles had just been replaced last august by the local denso diesel specialist. The egr has been removed.
Will get the engine block, pistons and all other parts thursday. So friday I get to take it home.
Thanks for the input everyone. =)
p.s. got any tips for a proper break in?
- (#14348) Pat, 7 Dec 04 09:09