Hello All.
I have almost completed the Turbo change on my 2CT space criuser, thanks to James Adgo who helped me immensley.
The thing is though, I was tightening the Exhaust Manifold up and I heard a snap.
(I put this bit in so as to help me explain the pipe) The Engine has two pipes running across the top of it that are connected to the turbo, a plastic one and a metal one.
On the Left side of the exhaust manifold is a metal pipe that runs around the back of the engine and meets the metal pipe that runs over the engine from the turbo itself (the one I talked about a minute ago). Where I hadn't aligned them up porperly, I had managed to put sufficient enough pressure on this pipe to break the large pipe completley in two on the passenger side of the engine where the round pipe and the large pipe meet.
What is carried alone these two metal pipes and what is the possibilty of repairing them without removing the entire engine and replacing the pipe?
I was doing so well too!!!
Brian
- (#14938) Brian Wharf, 15 Jan 05 09:32
Ooh. The pipe that runs round the back of the head is for EGR. It's not important and can be removed and capped off. Your problem is at the inlet manifold side. Is the manifold itself broken off (aluminium) or the EGR valve body (iron, the small pipe comes round the back and into it...)?
If it's just the valve, junk the whole setup and put a blanking plate on each manifold to seal it up.
If it's the manifold itself, you'll have to remove it to get it welded up I'm afraid unless you can think of any other way to block it up.
Or is it the 2" "bridge pipe" with the 3-hole flange that's broken off?
Email me a piccy if you can if descriptions don't help.
Either way, the inlet manifold must be sealed up tight otherwise your boost pressure will leak out...
- (#14938) David Miller, 15 Jan 05 10:27
That's the EGR pipe. The manifold can be blanked off with a suitable blanking plate, and an air-tight seal at the break at the EGR end. The other over the top pipe is the air intake feed to the Turbo.
- (#14938) Clive (Bristol), 15 Jan 05 10:32
I have had another look and It is the pipe that runs over the engine that I have actually broken. Whilst that stayed still, I put too much pressure on the EGR pipe and this has put too much stress on the large pipe and broken it. It is only the pipe that is damaged.
Brian
- (#14938) Brian Wharf, 15 Jan 05 11:46
Right then. It's the "bridge pipe" (my term...) that you need. Weld or replace.
- (#14938) David Miller, 15 Jan 05 13:59
Sorry just re-read my posting - should have said the air intake feed from the turbo!
- (#14938) Clive (Bristol), 15 Jan 05 17:18
Many Thanks for that. I shall try to have it welded up.
Brian
- (#14938) Brian Wharf, 16 Jan 05 04:39
hiya brian, i can e mail you the templates to make egr blanks if you like, you might be interested to know this will give you 2 to 3 more mpg too. the egr valve is just a way of getting the emissions down in japan by burning a percentage of the exhaust gasses twice.
i
It will not stop you passing a uk mot - ditch it while you have the chance, if you want those blanking templates e mail me
jim
- (#14938) j adgo, 16 Jan 05 10:35
Jim, I've just 'cooked' mine up and it's in several bits at the moment - head off. I am seriously considering an engine change at the moment and would be very grateful if you could send me a copy of those templates. From the sounds of things It would be a good thing to do now, while it's all in bits.
Thanks in advance,
Stewart
- (#14938) Stewart, 18 Jan 05 10:30
Stuart i send the templates for you.
I was looking at car mechanics mag this month it seems that the egr system does help keep combustion chamber temperatures down, however i have not noticed mine get any hotter since removing mine.
jim
- (#14938) J adgo, 18 Jan 05 12:04
Cheers Jim....Got them ok. It's a shame most garages don't give the same service that you get on this site!
Stewart
- (#14938) Stewart, 18 Jan 05 12:17
EGR is an interesting subject, Jim. As you increase the proportion of EGR, NOx reduces but as it reaches minimum, both HCs and CO skyrocket, as does soot production.
Also, EGR is disabled at full throttle/ load so you won't see any increase in temperatures...
- (#14938) David Miller, 18 Jan 05 13:34
Jim would it be possible for you to send me a copy of the templates.If it improves mpg it must be a good thing.Thanks
- (#14938) D Rees, 18 Jan 05 15:31
hiya sent it,
jim
- (#14938) j adgo, 18 Jan 05 16:55
Jim, you really reckon you get better fuel consumption from removing the EGR? Can't say as I have. I thought I noticed slightly better acceleration at take off after removing but only barely such that it may have been a placebo effect.
- (#14938) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 19 Jan 05 01:40
hiya Ian, hope you are well.
I think the extra 2mpg,s is hardly worth mentioning, however i was working in that area and decided it was worth doing.
it all helps
the usefull spin off is a cleaner inlet manifold, the half inch of crud was as bad as i have ever seen - all caused by the egr loop
jim
- (#14938) j adgo, 19 Jan 05 03:29
Removing the crud was the incentive for doing mine, it had worked its way up to the small vacuum pipe and was about to block it. But I don't get any better fuel consumption. Just peace of mind and less clutter in the engine bay.
- (#14938) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 19 Jan 05 03:33
I've put the EGR blank sketch on Ace Answers > Fuel System > EGR/Exhaust Gas Recirculation
- (#14938) Dave Mason (Sussex), 20 Jan 05 01:58
I've got my inlet manifold of at the moment and there is plenty of crud in it. Would blanking off the EGR stop this build up then?
- (#14938) stewart, 20 Jan 05 04:13
Definitely - yes!
- (#14938) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 20 Jan 05 08:42
Don't forget that if you do blank off the opening on the inlet manifold you will also need to do the same with the exhaust manifold. A bit of extra work but you may as well while you have the thing in bits. It is easier to create the blank for the exhaust manifold with the manifold off the car.
While it is off, check the face for flatness and the metal gasket for leaks. You should replace it but at £20 a throw, I wouldn't bother if it looks to be in good nick.
- (#14938) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 20 Jan 05 08:53
i've checked the manifolds and they seem ok. i'm going to blank off both ends to the egr; removing the crossover pipe altogether.
the head i've taken off does not look that old at all - it's away being checked at the moment. there are cracks evident between the valves (not on valve seats) on two cylinders but i've been told that's very common on a diesel and should be ok to run like it!!??. all the gaskets (metal) still seem to be in good nick, except the turbo-exhaust metal gasket - that's bust.
i was going to refit the manifold gaskets and make my own turbo gasket along with the egr blanking plates & gaskets, patterns kindly provided by jim. we have several types of gasket paper at work, including a graphite type metal reinforced steam flange gasket.
anyone know if there is something so special about the metal ones that:
1, they won't seal if i reuse them
2, a subtsitute material would be inadvisable
the reason i am trying to save costs at the moment is because i'm not 100% sure why it overheated in the first place. i've got some strange marks in the bores but checked them with crack detector and nothing found. i could find no obvious head gasket passing signs and hope i've got away with a possible warped head and skim. so, at the moment my thinking is that i'll chuck this back together and see what happens. if i get away with it it will give me time to look around for other replacement engine options (and, incidently, time to save the dosh!).
i'd had no problems at all and the first thing i noticed was the heater went cold (no temp guage movement + no obvious water loss) - which was too late then.
like a prat, with a capital 'p' i had read a long time before, when i first came across this site, all about dave mason's super little temperature alarm. for some stupid reason i thought that because mine run beautifully it wouldn't really effect me. ha, well it serves me right doesn't it; it's a case of shut the door after the horse has bolted. all i can say is, "thank you dave, your kit that i ordered a couple of days ago turned up safely this morning!"
i could have saved myself a lot of hassle and expense couldn't i.
- (#14938) Stewart, 21 Jan 05 14:29
Umm, on many diesels cracks between the valves are OK, but on a 2C they're either a coolant leak or an impending one. The coolant galleries are pretty close to the valve seats...
- (#14938) David Miller, 21 Jan 05 14:39
Thanks for that David. That would certainly answer the sudden occurence wouldn't it. I'll get it properly checked out.
- (#14938) Stewart, 21 Jan 05 14:47
hiya, i note that a few engines that have hg probs soon suffer cracked pistons soon after,
this is conjecture but
the combustion chamber temps are very high,in fact high enough to melt a piston, and the pistons and head areas are protected by a layer of cooler gasses, it seems a hg prob has the effect of depleting this and that ups the temp and causes cracks, ive seen two 2ct camry engines with pock marks round the swirl chamber inserts due to this.
jim
- (#14938) j adgo, 21 Jan 05 16:47