i know that townaces are a bit slow on acceleration.
but it seems that when i pull away from a junction that it takes a few seconds to get going. once it is going it is not to bad.
is there anything i can do to make the initial pulling away a bit quicker as it makes it difficult to pull out into traffic (roundabouts).
it does seem to be idling slower than it was before the mot was done and we had trouble with the emissions so my mechanic had to mess a bout with it to get it through.
could this be the cause or is just the way townaces are and i will have to get used to it. i can't tell as i have only driven it three times.
thanks for any help.
- (#15149) Andy, 27 Jan 05 10:55
If the tech. has turned the pump down to pass emissions that's your problem. A minute adjustment of the maximum fuel screw will reduce idle AND soften acceleration appreciably. If he had to do that, maybe it's time to treat it to a set of injectors? You could of course just turn it back up a bit...
Another thought. You can actually make the townie accelerate away from a standstill sharply enough to break traction. How? Accelerate against the brake, then release the brake. Loading the engine up spools the turbo, and gives you a couple of seconds advantage. I'll not recommend it for *every* start tho...
- (#15149) David Miller, 27 Jan 05 11:06
Yes, this has always been my dilema at MOT time and I have posted comments before about how difficult is is to have adequate power (for a Townace) and still get to the low emission figure required at MOT time. How do others get on? I have replaced the injectors but, at MOT time I do have to make adjustments to the fuel screw in order to get a pass reading. At that setting, the acceleration, and power on hills, is pretty dreadful. I won't go into print about what I do to the fuel screw after the MOT but,I do worry about my contribution to emissions and, of course, the possiblity of a roadside check.
- (#15149) John Davis (Leics), 27 Jan 05 12:54
I put a new air filter in just before the MOT as adviced by a freindly tester, allways passes on emissions. You would be suprised how quickly the filter starts to lose its air flow...
- (#15149) neil rolfe (torbay), 27 Jan 05 13:23
I would say make sure it's idling at least at 800rpm - both cold and hot, but the acceleration when cold in winter, for the first minute or so, always disappoints me. You may get some improvement with the Allen screw on top of the injector pump boost diaphragm.
On the other hand, since I removed the EGR and cleaned the piles of soot from the inlet side I continue to be amazed by the way it takes off, even though it was disabled before. I'm even wondering about adjusting the max fuel screw to slow it down a bit and perhaps improve economy! Mind you I did replace a cracked piston at the same time.
If you're new to the car, Andy, and it's auto, then you need to make sure that it's not changing up too soon - it's easy to experiment with the kickdown cable to do this. Just don't alter too many things at the same time, then you'll learn what each one does - and keep checking the hot and cold idling.
- (#15149) Dave Mason (Sussex), 28 Jan 05 03:23
David's advice does the trick for me too in emergencies.
Whether its 2 feet or heel toe method...be wise to make a deposit in your vehicle funds each time.
I first became aware of this method many years ago when my brother demonstrated how to make a rover v8 vitesse hit 90 at the wheels without moving....it did cost him a torque converter eventually though....
- (#15149) chris turner, 28 Jan 05 06:56
Thank you all, for replying. I like this site a lot.
After driving it a lot more (Two days solid) and reading your replies I think it could be the Kick down cable that needs adjusting as sometimes it will kick down and sometimes it won't.
So I will do as Dave Mason says and do things one at a time so I know what does stuff and what does not.
Thank you again.
- (#15149) Andy, 31 Jan 05 17:10
adjusted the kick down cable and it goes really quite well now.
- (#15149) Andy, 7 Feb 05 11:26
I have a 93 townace superextra and need to know the pcd and the et for the wheel fitment.It is not printed on the wheels and I don't have a manual.Could someone please help!It has 4 studs.
- (#15149) Gavin, 14 Feb 05 16:13