I'm going to replace my injectors and glow plugs over the Easter break as I have a spare set - cold starting is currently lousy/lumpy, power loss is noticable and fuel consumption is up. Filters are OK.
With having no torque wrench can anyone give me advise on how tight to wind these things in.
Love this forum :-)

- (#330) stephen judge, 25 Mar 05 14:40

OOps forgot to mention - Liteace 2CT engine

- (#330) stephen judge, 25 Mar 05 14:54

About as tight as a sparkplug, Stephen. Maybe an eighth after handtight. If you're reusing the copper sealing washers, best to heat'em up in a blowtorch flame to soften them.
The injector pipes and the nuts holding the leakoff manifold only need nipped up, not too tight.

Have you any access to a dial gauge and adaptor to check the timing? It's only a couple of minutes extra if you have the pipes off...

- (#330) david miller, 25 Mar 05 14:57

David, any chance on enlarging on that comment re checking the timing? I have a dial gauge and, with the lathe, no doubt an adaptor won't be too much trouble. Is the dial gauge used to check TDC (or near to it) and, in some way, the point at which the fuel is injected ? Any comment/enlargement much appreciated.

- (#330) John Davis (Leics), 25 Mar 05 16:28

John, all that's needed is a probe and a means of rigidly attaching it to the pump. (unlike Lucas pumps that require the probe to be a certain length and width, with a shoulder) It's an M10 thread at the rear of the pump IIRC, so all you need is a hollow threaded fitting that the dial gauge clamps into and screws into the pump, with a coaxial probe to contact the plunger in the pump.

The procedure is in the RM025E, you are measuring the position of the plunger inside the pump at the base of it's cam, and again at TDC. The pump is then rotated to bring the measurement to specified value.

- (#330) david miller, 25 Mar 05 17:17

Many thanks David. Although my Masterace runs well, I have never had the pump timing checked and am curious to see if it is on spec. My pump is aligned to the marks on the pump mounting flange but, of course, on a 14 year old vehicle, this cannot be assumed to be correct any more.
I am having a couple of days to work on the vehicle, carrying out a number of jobs still not resolved(including the P/S pump irregularities which you kindly commented on previously)so, with the floor out it will be a good opportunity to carry out the fuel pump timing check

- (#330) John Davis (Leics), 26 Mar 05 01:01

Well worth doing, John, as the degree of tolerance in timing belt pitch plus any wear in the pump, is such that all the marks may line up visually, but plunger position (and therefore actual injection timing)could be a couple of degrees out. More than enough to alter emissions, reduce power, and indeed increase running temperatures.
Any fixture you can fabricate to retain the DTI behind the pump firmly whilst the plunger contacts the pump plunger will do. The emphasis however is on FIRMLY, as you're talking about a reading of 0.7mm +- 0.03mm...

(at this point, I would extoll the benefits of setting the timing to the ADVANCED side of the tolerance, even closer to the figure for non-turbo versions er .75-.77mm)

And if you are going to check this please ensure to follow the step in the manual re. disabling the cold start advance, or all your work will be in vain.

- (#330) david miller, 26 Mar 05 04:00