i have read in the archives that it is advisable to do away with the EGR & fit blanking plates, as i am about to swop my turbo over i thought it may be worthwile carrying this out as well. is it beneficial and if so has anyone got any diagrams/templates so i can get them made up ready. also as mentioned in an earlier thread i have ordered the eng manual but will not be hear for another week or two so can anyone help out with regards to the torque settings for the above jobs so i can get them done now. also what gaskets am i likely to need to replace or do they normaly come away intact? also whilst doing the turbo i thought it may be worthwile flushing out the cooling system and replacing the thermostat, unfortunately i have not had chance to read through the cooling archives as i am bad with my reading and takes me hours to read just one page, so any help and guidance would be appreciated even if it just which particular strands in the cooling section of the archives to check up on as i have been told it may be beneficial to have a winter thermostat and also a summer one with extra holes in it & replace as needed is this neccesery and what/where are the holes for as i always thought that the wax inside the thermostat expanded & opened the plate enough for the correct flow of water, so surely any extra holes is defeating the object of it being closed, also what make of thermostat is best as i recall someone saying fit a genuine toyota one, is this neccesery as i would have thought any reputible pattern thermostat would be to the same standard or is this not the case with the townace

- (#1760) jason, 12 Jun 05 19:11

forgot to mention, another thing i have noticed is that the oil LEVEL warning light (orange), not the PREASURE (red) keeps coming on but i have flushed the engine out twice now and replaced the filter so as the fresh turbo will have a fighting chance and i know that the oil level is spot on, is this just another fault of my knackered turbo or something else completely different? thanks for any help. also the gear change sems extremely slugish at changing but when it does change it seems to snatch making it a bit unpleasent for passengers who arent expecting such a fierce gearchange, is it benificial to drain & change the gear oil as it seems to be well over the max level,could this possibly be the cause,or am i just grasping at straws. i know its a different vehicle alltogether but a friend has a isuzu longhorn 3.1 auto and you cant even feel it as it changes gear so i cant realy compare mine with anything else and i aint used to autos
PS the vehicle is a 1990 automatic 4x4 toyota townace super extra 2.0 turbo-diesel if this helps.

- (#1760) jason, 12 Jun 05 19:34

Please DO take the time to read the archives. These points have been covered ad nauseum...

1. aftermarket stats aren't the same as OEM
2. oil level changes with temperature. The orange light is coming on whilst going downhill on a cold engine, no? Add a little more oil...
3. changing the tranny fluid and adjusting the kickdown cable will improve the gearchange, but are you sure you've the correct fluid level? Checked hot, in neutral, engine running...

- (#1760) David Miller, 12 Jun 05 22:55