I have recently fitted a second tank and kit to make my 91 townace TD run on used oil from the chip shop !
It goes great , possibly a little flat mid range but faster on the motorway . Not only do i get to feel good about saving the planet from global warming But including 27p a litre tax to the goverment I still save over £20 on every tank full . Who ever said you cant have your cake and eat it ?
Mike

- (#2093) mike, 7 Jul 05 14:36

I have takn my townace to a local garage for a timeing belt change. They have had it a week now and report they cant remave the fan belt pulley which is tapered,and have had under tension with a pulley remover. They say that the pulley has rubber in the middle and are afaid rhey might damage it. Can any one
help ma help the mechenic's with any tips or suggestions, has any one had similer difficulties. idont think the timeing belt has been changed in years

- (#2093) ANDY ALEXANDER, 20 Jul 05 10:43

Sorry i memt to post this mesage to the bok no to you personally

- (#2093) andy, 20 Jul 05 11:00

Andy, the correct puller screws into the holes left in the main pulley after you remove the aircon pulley. No possibility of damage to the rubber that way...

- (#2093) David Miller, 20 Jul 05 12:55

Andy. What they must NOT do is try to remove the pulley with ordinary, three legged type pullers, spread around the pulley rim. This will/might result in a fracture and a replacement pulley costs a lot of money. David's advice is the correct route to take and these tapped holes, revealed after the aircon pulley is removed, are ideal for pulling the pulley off with a commercial type, or simply made up puller. The pulley bore & crankshaft boss are not tapered. Some release oil, on the pulley boss and keyway area, soaking overnight, will help to "start" the pulley moving on the crankshaft boss.
Have they, or you, got the engine manual, code RMO25E
which explains all you need to know when carrying out this job ? If you look in Ace Answers (Link above) you will see illustrations regarding the pulley layout etc.

- (#2093) John Davis (Leics), 20 Jul 05 13:38

Bearing in mind the crankshaft pulleys have a reputation for falling off (mine did a couple of months ago) I'm surprised your garage are having a problem removing it. As John says the shaft is NOT tapered, it's just a push fit, with a woodruff key to locate, then the central bolt to hold in position. As David rightly says, the correct puller must be used, otherwise they will destroy the pulley & cush drive. Have they looked at the end of the crank to pulley area with a mirror to see if there is any evidence of weld there to prevent crank pulley from falling off, if there is, this will need to be ground off before they can remove the pulley.

HTH Rob.

- (#2093) Rob Drinkwater, 20 Jul 05 16:41

What about the rubber seals and drive blocks in the fuel pump? Veggie oil slowly eats them and you need synthetic replacements.

- (#2093) Stu, 22 Jul 05 04:14

A bit of an old wives tale -
If the oil has been correctly treated no it will not - unless the seals have started to perish, then yes I agree but they would have needed replacing anyway.
Improperly prepared oil can and will dissolve natural rubber.
Diesel fuel itself is caustic. There have been a number of postings of leaking pump seals, I doubt that the majority of the owners run on veggie oil.
The O ring seals I replaced on my pump were not natural rubber, old and new ones, don't know when Toyota moved to synthetic.

- (#2093) Phil (South London), 22 Jul 05 04:44

mmh! Actually I would of thought Diesel fuel, in theory would be Ph neutral as its a petroleum distillate. The addition of sulphur additives for lubrication may make it marginally acidic. Bio Diesel on the other hand Should be! also Ph neutral or extremely close to it, if its washed correctly. - My humble opinion as a novice to Bio Diesel preparation --

- (#2093) stephen judge, 22 Jul 05 14:42