- Editor, Dave Mason, CEng. 23 Jul 2005
I have recently fitted a second tank and kit to make my 91 townace TD run on used oil from the chip shop !
It goes great , possibly a little flat mid range but faster on the motorway . Not only do i get to feel good about saving the planet from global warming But including 27p a litre tax to the goverment I still save over £20 on every tank full . Who ever said you cant have your cake and eat it ?
Mike
- (#2093) mike, 7 Jul 05 14:36
I have takn my townace to a local garage for a timeing belt change. They have had it a week now and report they cant remave the fan belt pulley which is tapered,and have had under tension with a pulley remover. They say that the pulley has rubber in the middle and are afaid rhey might damage it. Can any one
help ma help the mechenic's with any tips or suggestions, has any one had similer difficulties. idont think the timeing belt has been changed in years
- (#2093) ANDY ALEXANDER, 20 Jul 05 10:43
Sorry i memt to post this mesage to the bok no to you personally
- (#2093) andy, 20 Jul 05 11:00
Andy, the correct puller screws into the holes left in the main pulley after you remove the aircon pulley. No possibility of damage to the rubber that way...
- (#2093) David Miller, 20 Jul 05 12:55
Andy. What they must NOT do is try to remove the pulley with ordinary, three legged type pullers, spread around the pulley rim. This will/might result in a fracture and a replacement pulley costs a lot of money. David's advice is the correct route to take and these tapped holes, revealed after the aircon pulley is removed, are ideal for pulling the pulley off with a commercial type, or simply made up puller. The pulley bore & crankshaft boss are not tapered. Some release oil, on the pulley boss and keyway area, soaking overnight, will help to "start" the pulley moving on the crankshaft boss.
Have they, or you, got the engine manual, code RMO25E
which explains all you need to know when carrying out this job ? If you look in Ace Answers (Link above) you will see illustrations regarding the pulley layout etc.
- (#2093) John Davis (Leics), 20 Jul 05 13:38
Bearing in mind the crankshaft pulleys have a reputation for falling off (mine did a couple of months ago) I'm surprised your garage are having a problem removing it. As John says the shaft is NOT tapered, it's just a push fit, with a woodruff key to locate, then the central bolt to hold in position. As David rightly says, the correct puller must be used, otherwise they will destroy the pulley & cush drive. Have they looked at the end of the crank to pulley area with a mirror to see if there is any evidence of weld there to prevent crank pulley from falling off, if there is, this will need to be ground off before they can remove the pulley.
HTH Rob.
- (#2093) Rob Drinkwater, 20 Jul 05 16:41
What about the rubber seals and drive blocks in the fuel pump? Veggie oil slowly eats them and you need synthetic replacements.
- (#2093) Stu, 22 Jul 05 04:14
A bit of an old wives tale -
If the oil has been correctly treated no it will not - unless the seals have started to perish, then yes I agree but they would have needed replacing anyway.
Improperly prepared oil can and will dissolve natural rubber.
Diesel fuel itself is caustic. There have been a number of postings of leaking pump seals, I doubt that the majority of the owners run on veggie oil.
The O ring seals I replaced on my pump were not natural rubber, old and new ones, don't know when Toyota moved to synthetic.
- (#2093) Phil (South London), 22 Jul 05 04:44
mmh! Actually I would of thought Diesel fuel, in theory would be Ph neutral as its a petroleum distillate. The addition of sulphur additives for lubrication may make it marginally acidic. Bio Diesel on the other hand Should be! also Ph neutral or extremely close to it, if its washed correctly. - My humble opinion as a novice to Bio Diesel preparation --
- (#2093) stephen judge, 22 Jul 05 14:42
Reply to this
Closing of this forum
I came back here on the off chance and find that people are still posting on this forum and that seems to be defeating the object of having a new BOK site.
The new site is here.....
http://members.spboards.com/index.php?mforum=ukaces
I know the BOK will still be on this site but the new site is much better laid out.
I don't know what the Gaffer has in mind to do with this one.
- (#2043) Rik vonTrense, 1 Jul 05 17:12
See Test move opf the BoK posting further down.
- (#2043) *, 2 Jul 05 01:47
why ?
and....
what is the web site address now ?
www.uk-aces.net
www.townace.
www.??????????.
- (#2043) paul, 5 Jul 05 09:54
Hello Paul,
If you hadn't realised already, there are a number of sites run by various owners that are all geared towards providing infomation for the knowledge hungry owner in despair.
The one you are on at the moment reading this posting on the BoK is run by me and has a number of pages available from the home page. The BoK is moving to a more secure area where postings can be monitored and unwanted abusers of the helpful minded can be dealt with. The link is :
http://members.spboards.com/index.php?mforum=ukaces
- (#2043) Mark, 9 Jul 05 12:49
I think I will stay with this one.
- (#2043) Paul, 11 Jul 05 16:03
Hello all,
I have dealt this old board it's final hand. This link will be killed off at the end of July with the link on the other pages of my site now going straight over to the new Bok.
I have had many positive comments about the new Bok which I am pleased with and the number of users already logged in, 70 at this point, shows the extent of assistance the Board offers all owners. I hope that the new BoK continues to give help to those that need it and the knowledgable users that willingly and freely give advice gain satisfaction from assisting them.
We'll all have to see whether this is the right move.
Mark
- (#2043) Mark, 21 Jul 05 04:47
having trouble registering on new board as link on email is drawing a blank.
- (#2043) ivan, 22 Jul 05 05:36
try cutting and pasting it into IE instead of clicking on it, Ivan.
- (#2043) David Miller, 22 Jul 05 06:07
Reply to this
The motor has stopped in the passenger door window of my townace so cannot operate electric window anymore. How much should a new one cost and where can I get one from?
- (#2213) sharon marshall, 18 Jul 05 08:04
if you search on ebay there are a couple of people selling bits for townaces, price should be about £20....
- (#2213) *, 18 Jul 05 08:42
You sure the lock button on the drivers door isn't on?
That once had me thinking the same for a while.
- (#2213) stu, 22 Jul 05 04:17
Reply to this
hi we are into camping and wanted to fit a roof top box to my townace only where do i get the roof bars from as they are very big to fit the rails
any advice whould help thanks steve60
- (#2253) steve60, 21 Jul 05 13:39
Not done this myself but there have been some good recommendations made on here in the past. Check through AceAnswers http://mpvi.net/ia/ik0078.htm
- (#2253) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 22 Jul 05 02:56
Reply to this
i have an external regulaitor were can i get anew one part ref27700 64060
- (#2254) matt, 21 Jul 05 14:01
Scrapyard is best bet. Check the archives, one contributor got a good deal, mailorder, from a place near Worksop.
- (#2254) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 22 Jul 05 00:47
Reply to this
I'm just wondering why my front aircon is not as good as my rear aircon in giving cool air?
How do I check it?
- (#2256) Jeffrey, 21 Jul 05 23:11
Aircon on, fan on full. Stick a thermometer in the vent. The temerature should quickly drop to less than 5 degrees C. If it doesn't then you probably need the gas recharging.
- (#2256) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 22 Jul 05 00:45
Reply to this
just replace may battery less than 3weeks ago and now it was discharge again... is it an alternator problem? what should i do? thanks....
=)
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 12 Jun 05 16:31
This sounds like what was going on with my Hiace.....
Put a multimeter across your battery and see if it is charging or not, if it is then it's your battery.
If it isn't charging then check that the belt(s) to your alternator are ok and adjusted correctly.
Good luck....
- (#1759) Thom, 13 Jun 05 04:48
just got my alternator fix... problem with diodes and change the worn out belt... god! the mechanic had a very tough job of removing the alternator from the engine block.
ty
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 13 Jun 05 20:36
this problem write now in: http://www.toyota-ace.ru/alternator.htm
good luck!
admin Dimon, www.toyota-ace.ru
- (#1759) Dmitry (RUS), 20 Jun 05 23:11
the web was nice but I hope we can translate it to english... =)
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 21 Jun 05 02:38
After less than 2 weeks since I got my alternator fixed... I lost power again... I just parked my townace for just 10mins... its imposible that the battery got drained in that short amount of time... the only accessory that uses the battery is the alarm... I had it checked the next day and everything seems fine and the battery is charging.
How would I know if my battery is discharging power while i was parked?
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 26 Jun 05 23:12
Disconnect the negative connection to the battery. Bridge the gap with a multi meter. There should be some flow as the sliding door is open. Close that and unless you have an alarm, only a trickle to the radio should be on. The alarm would be minimal in normal use.
If you have anything near 12 volts showing you have an open circuit.
One thought have you pressed the black button above the steering lock and turned the key back one further click before removing it?
- (#1759) Phil, 29 Jun 05 01:53
Thanks for the advice Phil... Its been weeks now and I haven't encountered battery problems... its just it takes a bit of seconds before the engine starts... hope everything would be fine.
Yup... i pressed the black button... else i would not be able to remove my keys and lock the doors. ;)
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 29 Jun 05 19:44
I read on Ace Answers about the key being able to be removed without pressing the button. I checked mine and found I could remove it in all but the starting position. I can even leave the engine running without the key in.
- (#1759) Phil, 30 Jun 05 01:55
whoah! that was a revelation... maybe I have remove my keys still in accessories... damn it!
I hope I can find that this in Ace Answers... archive is so large already... hope you could recall and post it here.
Thanks. =)
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 30 Jun 05 20:02
Electrics - Battery - several postings
- (#1759) Phil, 1 Jul 05 03:02
i came back here on the off chance and find that people are still posting on this forum and that seems to be defeating the object of having a new bok site.
the new site is here.....
http://members.spboards.com/index.php?mforum=ukaces
i know the bok will still be on this site but the new site is much better laid out.
i don't know what the gaffer has in mind to do with this one.
.
- (#1759) Rik vonTrense, 1 Jul 05 17:09
hi guys... last night my townie won't start 'again'. i had it checked ths morning at the garage says that the alternator can't charge my batteries when i had my aircon, radio, park light and headlights on... my alternator needs replacement.
I just want to ask the model/type/description of the alternator when i ask for replacement.
Thanks
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 15 Jul 05 20:23
One identical to the original would be the simplest. There are quite a number of different ones- different output, internal or externally regulated, with or without vacuum pump.
But a specialist might be able to repair yours...
- (#1759) David Miller, 16 Jul 05 02:28
that was a good idea but eventually it will wear again... specialist here in ph suggest to replace it rather than to repair it... i found the model no. in ace answers.
=)
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 16 Jul 05 08:42
Jeffrey, good afternoon!
The alternator is not a subject to restoration in two cases:
1. Windings (wire's stator is very strong damaged)...
2. are charred. Are worn out up to a limit coup. rings on a rotor the rest is under repair, diode the bridge varies, it is possible to make it remote, to pick up a regulator depending on the scheme of inclusion. 100 % of success depend on the competent expert on repair of generators!
Success!
admin Dimon... Russia...
- (#1759) admin Dimon, 17 Jul 05 22:51
Do you think there's really a problem with my alternator or just battery problem or something wrong with wirings?
i'm getting second opinion this weekend.
thanks for the response. =)
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 18 Jul 05 20:51
Yes, if the accumulator already old, or does not suffice electrolit or plates are damaged in him, is quite possible, as the accumulator does not hold a charge, measure a pressure on it by means of the voltmeter, before start-up of the engine and after start-up, at the working engine should be nearby 14V if the pressure was or 12-11 volt will continue to remain - CHARGE is not present! Then it is 1C regulator jr 1C alternator have problems...
- (#1759) Dmitry, 20 Jul 05 00:58
Thanks...
Here's a complete history...
Last June13 the garage replace my diodes and the charging goes well but I notice the I have a loose belt squeeking... in less than two weeks(June24), batteries are weak again... the garage checked it again and everything is fine... and last July15 it goes weak again the garage diagnose that when my aircon on, headlights/tail lights ON, radio on, accessories on my battery charge is only 12v... garage says it should 13.5v-14v.
I'll let other specialist look at it this weekend.
- (#1759) Jeffrey, 20 Jul 05 18:33
When all electrodevices at you are included, especially when air-con is included, at you the system of increase in turns (vacoom switch), that lifting turns on a tachometer of 1200-1300 turns should work. Then at you will not be so consumers to unload the accumulator. Even with such loading should not be ïðîñàäêè less than 13 volt. Check up a tension of a belt of the generator, whether slides it. Well and brushes on a winding of a rotor has changed or still is not present???
To model and a photo of a socket of your generator you can send to me? I shall try still than to help you!
- (#1759) Dmitry, 21 Jul 05 20:18
Reply to this
hi guys... last night my townie won't start 'again'. i had it checked ths morning at the garage says that the alternator can't charge my batteries when i had my aircon, radio, park light and headlights on... my alternator needs replacement.
I just want to ask the model/type/description of the alternator when i ask for replacement.
Thanks
- (#2193) Jeffrey, 15 Jul 05 20:21
get it recond,could be ext regulaitor behind glove box
- (#2193) matt, 21 Jul 05 13:35
Reply to this
Does anyone know if Hi Lux wheels fit a 4x4 Townie?
I have a 4x4 Townie with chrome steel wheels which I would like to change for alloys. I have seen some Hi Lux's with very nice alloys which would look good on my Townie. But will they fit??? Are they 14 or 15 inch wheels on the Hi Lux? The wheels on my Ace are 14 inch.
- (#2219) Bill, 18 Jul 05 15:05
hiluxes are 6-stud, townies are 5. You might be better looking at Suzuki or daihatsu rims, they're the same PCD.
- (#2219) David Miller, 18 Jul 05 15:06
hi can anyone help me i'm looking for a cd player to replace my radio in a townace as i can not get one to fit in the hole thay r all to long thanks.
- (#2219) tony , 21 Jul 05 12:57
Reply to this
Does anyone know if the 'TEMS' suspension as fitted to my Liteace MPV is serviceable?
It appears to be soggy and bouncy in either Norm or Sport mode.
- (#2238) Richard 261, 20 Jul 05 13:05
I'm afraid not. Small motors on the top of each damper screw the rod in or out as directed by sensors in the steering column and braking system, making the ride hard or soft depending upon driving conditions as determined by the sensors. If you have a bouncy ride it looks like the shock absorbers are in need of replacement and they aren't cheap - about £110 each. You might want to check the TEMS motors first though by disconnecting then applying a current to each to ensure they activate. I believe there is an article on AceAnswers explaining their operation.
- (#2238) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 21 Jul 05 01:03
Thanks.
- (#2238) Richard 261, 21 Jul 05 10:48
Reply to this
hi/ can any one tell me where l can get cheap insurance for the hiace (import) a lot of firms wont do it thanks
- (#2248) alan, 21 Jul 05 06:12
Which country are you in?
- (#2248) David Miller, 21 Jul 05 09:35
Reply to this
need a lite ace sill any suggestion would be helpfuul thanks in advance
- (#2235) BARRIE, 20 Jul 05 12:27
I doubt that they are available. I know they are not for the Spacecruiser. Just get the rot cut out and some plates welded over, a splash of paint and no one will notice.
- (#2235) *, 21 Jul 05 05:22
Reply to this
My 1990 CR30 4WD has a horizontal rad that never seems to get hot. If I could get coolant to flow thru this rad, it would reduce the running temp - any ideas how I could achieve this? Is there any mechanical reason why no flow occurs?
- (#2241) Paul Sammons, 20 Jul 05 15:51
There are two horizontal heat exchangers, the rad is the upper one. Coolant flows through it all the time, and the two speed electric fans are controlled by the aircon *and* an overtemperature thermal switch on the coolant outlet neck. It helps cool the engine all the time.
Maybe it's sludged up and requires a reverse flush?
- (#2241) David Miller, 20 Jul 05 15:59
Reply to this
Sorry to be so basic - I have just bought a Town Ace and need to change a bulb at the front, I have taken the side screw off but nothing budges. Can anyone help me work this out, I don't want to froce the glass in case I bust it and know how hard it it to find replacements or so I have been told.
- (#2104) rik, 10 Jul 05 01:20
Cover in Ace Answers - click on short cut above.
However - if you are talking about the side light is is secured by two lugs at the front. So with the screw removed, push with the flat of your hand onto the lens and push in and forward. It may well be stuck tight and take a fair amount of force!
- (#2104) *, 10 Jul 05 02:36
Hi thanks for the reply - the light I need to change is the first light to the right of the central piec of plastic it's a slightly yellow colour I think. I have a Toyota Town Ace 2.0 Diesel '93.
- (#2104) rik, 10 Jul 05 05:44
New shape one, I think you are talking about the front fog light?
Not sure how that comes off.
- (#2104) *, 10 Jul 05 06:28
Is there anywhere on line with images about the Town Ace, that might show me what to do, I have an import manual but it is very basic and pretty useless.
Also, Are there any clubs in the UK you can join do you know?
It was fantastic finding this site as I have been looking for ages!
- (#2104) rik, 10 Jul 05 07:32
New shape light unit comes out relatively easily. Remove side light as above to reveal first mounting bolts for main light cluster. You then need to prise out the center trim to access the last bolt. This is slightly nerve wracking but gentle pressure with a knife or similar should be enough to lever it out. It is held in place by 4 yellow plastic lugs.
The alternative is of course to work from the inside of the van and get to the bulbs through the inspection panel. OK for drivers side but major headache on passenger side where the aircon obscures the panel. Much scuffing of skin and cursing to be 'enjoyed' with this method.
Diagram for one of the new shape variants here:
- (#2104) Nick, 10 Jul 05 09:14
I have taken the front off to find the casing full of water - emptied it out and will have to buy a new fog light bulb which I guess will have to be ordered - any idea how much or where should I go Halford or a Toyota dealership?
Also, the box is still damp and the condesnsation is still there - where can I get a second hand box in case it is cracked somewhere?
- (#2104) rik, 12 Jul 05 07:10
See Ace Answers for bulb replacements.
Getting a spare box may be very tricky unless you are lUcky at a breakers. BBC spares may have one but it will cost - link on Ace Answers.
There should be drain points and vents make sure they are all clear. A smear of clear bath sealer along the top join may stop future fill ups.
- (#2104) *, 12 Jul 05 08:11
My front fogs were disconnected & "bulbless" when I bought the van. The dipped/full beams are all I need. Never traced the disconnected wires but my guess is that that they were diverted from the dash switch for the uk req'd rear fog.
- (#2104) Nick, 12 Jul 05 09:38
Just an additional note to a front lights thread :-
I had a MOT failure last year on the front lights. - "Sorry Sir you have no beam pattern, you'll need new headlights I would think"
Once I found out what a beam pattern was, I thought about why it was'nt there anymore.
Turned out the beam pattern was lost due to wear ( Sun / Wind / Rain ) on the plastic lens.
Cheap and Cheerful as I am - I polished the lens face with a mechanical Buff and -- Hey Presto !! beam pattern returned. Hope others find this helpful.
- Stephen
- (#2104) stephen judge, 20 Jul 05 15:01
Reply to this
hi i have recently bought a liteace 2.0 turbo deasel manual j plate but i have developed a noise on the driver side suspension i wondered if anyone could give me an idea of what could be causeing this the handleing seems fine and it does not botom out when brakeing it has tems any ideas please
- (#2161) brian, 13 Jul 05 14:29
bushes/balljoints/ driveshaft(if 4x4)/ calipers...
All in AceAnswers, but my first port of call would be antirollbar bushes, then bottom balljoints.
- (#2161) David Miller, 14 Jul 05 00:57
What type of noise - squeak/grind/thump,
all the time or on full lock only?
With or without the engine running?
You may get more vision of your question if you post it on the new BoK
http://members.spboards.com/index.php?mforum=ukaces
- (#2161) *, 14 Jul 05 00:59
all the time without and with the engine running only a 2wd and it creaks and squeaks
- (#2161) brian, 16 Jul 05 12:31
Probably just antirollbar bushes, although it's sensible to put a shot of grease in all the grease points (you'll have to purchase and install a nipple/ zerk in each); all the info is in Ace Answers.
- (#2161) David Miller, 16 Jul 05 12:50
took ace to garage but the is no blanking bolts on the ball joints and the bloke told me to put brake fluid onto the bushes is there anyone in bristol that might be able to give me a point in the right direction
- (#2161) brian, 20 Jul 05 12:50
Reply to this
Has anyone ever bought new TEMS shocks for their bus and noticed any difference ? I reckon the back end of my Hiace Wagon is getting even more wolly than before but there is no sign of any leaks from the shocks. I've replaced many of the bushed already so can't be a problem there.
Thing is at £110+vat each ! It's quite a bit of wedge to shell out to find they are OK.
The mileage is about 85,000 miles
Cheers Jason
- (#2227) Jason Bamford, 19 Jul 05 06:23
Yes, I replaced the front TEMS dampers on my Masterace and attended to all the bushes etc. No great improvement I'm afraid. I did check the operation of the old and new dampers, and the new ones seemed marginally stiffer but, in my opinion, not worth the £250 I shelled out.
- (#2227) John Davis (Leics), 19 Jul 05 13:58
Thanks John, I'll think twice about changing them.
- (#2227) Jason Bamford, 20 Jul 05 03:20
Reply to this
help please!.have looked at a grand saloon masterace surf 2.2efi 4wd 1988 that needs a good home as have always wanted one.BUT :the a/t light is on ,on the dash and will drive but goes through 1,2 then needs help to change down.will go in reverse also .as an auto,is this a common problem?,and does it mean a new box?,not mechanically minded and live in bracknell.not well off so dont want to take on too much!.thanks
- (#2224) mandy, 19 Jul 05 04:02
Mandy. As far as I know, the only A/T light, on the dashboard of a 4WD is the auto transmission fluid temperature indication. This will glow, with all the other idicator lamps, when you switch on but, will go out when the engine is started. Is the light, which you are seeing, the overdrive indicator? The auto box has a top gear which is called an "overdrive" gear and, on the back of the gear lever is a button. try depressing this button and you should see the light go out. The light legend says " O/D off" and this means that the autobox will not change into top gear, a useful feature when travelling around town in slow moving traffic or when towing. However, it's usual to have the overdrive switched in for normal use and, as your gearbox seems reluctant to change up to the higher gear/s, this overdive button might be the answer. Check that the light does indicate "O/D off" and not A/T as you mention in your posting
- (#2224) John Davis (Leics), 19 Jul 05 06:08
There is a second transmission-related light on 4x4s for high fluid temps "a/t temp" as I recall. But it doesn't control anything else.
And no 1988 townie has an electronically-controlled tranny, so it isn't trying to alert you of a fault condition either. I'll second John's advice.
- (#2224) David Miller, 20 Jul 05 00:58
Reply to this
hi i was wondering if anybody has a diagram for where the vacuum pipes go on a masterace surf 2l 3y engine also where can i get a new fuel injector apart from main dealers (robbing b******s)
- (#2229) kev, 19 Jul 05 14:38
Reply to this
Royal lounge 2.0l TD. Problem. Ligh knocking (tapping noise) increasing when accelerating. Maybe camshaft problem. Any good repairers in Crewe area.
- (#2225) Chris Whitworth, 19 Jul 05 04:44
Reply to this
Can anyone recomend where I can go for air con regas/repair? I am in Bristol, have tried Go Cool but they are booked up for ages.
Another problem, I have tried to get onto the new site I have registerd but cant activate the thing.I recieved an e-mail telling me to visit http;members.spboards.com/.............
When I do it says page not found.
I can't e-mail the administrator without logging in.
So any help will be appreciated
Thanks
Rhoda
- (#2202) rhoda, 17 Jul 05 08:30
Go Cool the best and cheapest. A garage down Crew's Hole Road or Yate are the nearest independant garages.
Have you managed to get on the new BoK yet? If not click on the "To return to the Home Page" link above and contact Mark via that page.
- (#2202) *, 18 Jul 05 04:50
Thanks "asterisk", have emailed Mark as per suggestion.
Would like to use Go Cool but they're not taking new bookings 'til the 8th August (when we *hope* to be away - and using the aircon/icebox). The fact that they are booked up probably speaks for itself - know to get it seen to sooner in the future...
Rhoda
- (#2202) Rhoda, 19 Jul 05 03:13
Reply to this
I have a 1989 2.0 litre EFI Royal Lounge 4x4 that has badly worn front anti roll bar bushes. I don't want to replace them with the standard rubber Toyota items but with uprated plastic bushes. What size are the bushes (2 inner and 2 outer) and does anyone know where I could get universal fit uprated plastic bushes. Thanks.
- (#2218) Bill, 18 Jul 05 14:48
Polyurethane? I believe Superflex list then for the 2wd, not sure about the 4x4. www.superflex.co.uk
- (#2218) David Miller, 18 Jul 05 15:05
Reply to this
My townace was leaking oil recently and the garage has diagnosed leaking oil pipes between the oil filter and the engine block. There are two pipes that need to be replaced but one of them will not be delivered until 27th July. This is a long time to be without the car and I need the car for a family holiday from the 30th.
I have asked for the part number to see if I can find an alternative source - it is 1576864050.
Google does not turn up this number. Can anyone help?
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 14 Jul 05 06:09
Uh, that's a coolant pipe, is it not? Water is channelled to and from that older oil cooler via the hoses, the oil arrives through the two banjo bolts securing it to the block...
Your garage might want to confirm their diagnosis.
- (#2167) David Miller, 14 Jul 05 06:41
I'm afraid I don't know what this area looks like (just thought - will the engine manual show this area? if so I'll look when I get home) but on AceAnswers/engine mechanical/oil/oil pipes there is a picture which appear to show two pipes to the oil filter - can you explain?
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 14 Jul 05 06:57
OK, I made a slight oopsie there. Re-checking the parts info , yours is the later cooler (that most of us are used to...). It's inline with the oil filter, yes. But regardless, it's still COOLANT that flows through the hoses.
RM025 won't help, it only shows the earlier cooler in a FWD application. But give me an email addy and I'll send you an image of the requisite parts.
But none of this will help you cure an oil leak. there's a gasket between the block and the filter mount, and an Oring between the filter mount and the cooler. Assuming the problem isn't elsewhere completely, one of these must be the problem...
- (#2167) David Miller, 14 Jul 05 08:21
I am reassured because the garage's response is that the reason they are replacing the pipes is because they are perishing and while fixing the problem they will disturb them creating further problems so putting in new pipes makes sense. Sounds good to me!
So the question is back out there can anyone suggest a source for the 1576864050?
David, I'm thinking how best for you to give me the info without exposing either of us to spam by revealing our email addresses? But perhaps we'll leave it for now if you think the above makes sense.
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 14 Jul 05 09:57
Whoa. Just had a thought. It's a metal pipe, not a hose. Pipes don't perish... there are hoses linking the pipe sections together, but they're just lengths of oilproof hose that you could get from the factors...
Anyways. Can you garage confirm that the requisite parts were ordered VOR (vehicle off road, express delivery)? That particular pipe will no doubt be dealer-only. If time is of the essence, what about good secondhand?
- (#2167) David Miller, 14 Jul 05 10:41
I assume the required parts are the metal pipes and that they are the worst for wear and susceptible to damage through rework therefore good move to replace them now rather than have problems later when all put together? Or you saying that the metal pipes just do not present these problems?
I wasn't aware of VOR - I'll ask.
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 14 Jul 05 11:13
Well, you don't have to disturb the metalwork to get at the oil cooler, merely slip the rubber hoses off. Now it does *occasionally* happen the steel water pipes rust out from the inside, but that's kinda rare...
- (#2167) David Miller, 14 Jul 05 13:05
The garage advises that the part was ordered VOR but it has to come from outside the UK hence the delay.
I spoke to the mechanic himself about the work and he says he is not replacing the coolant pipes to the oil cooler but there is an oil pipe connecting to the banjo (I haven't a clue what this is!) and another pipe connecting to this pipe. It is these oil pipes that will be disturbed and which he wants to replace with new as he is concerned that the joints will not be as good as it should be.
The part number will have been advised by the supplier over the telephone so it's worth checking that the right part numbers have been ordered!! Imagine two weeks down the line and it's the wrong part - I'm smiling now but I won't be then!! David does your drawing clearly show the pipes & part numbers in question? Is there anything else you need to know about my vehicle apart from 'G-reg Mastersurf 2L diesel'?
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 15 Jul 05 03:56
Ah. There *are* oil pipes in that region, but they connect to the turbo...
There are two versions of the pipework in question, the changeover happening in 08/90. Can you verify that your vehicle is the earlier model? (the part number given relates to the earlier one...)The difference is in the coolant plumbing to the turbo.
I think the problem then might be that beside the banjo bolt holding that coolant pipe on, there is another one, which attaches the oil feed pipe to the turbo. Although your mechanic might be talking about the coolant return hose from the turbo, which connects onto the coolant pipe in question as well
Drop me an email and I'll send you some pics.
- (#2167) David Miller, 15 Jul 05 04:53
This is how parts delivery was explained to me by my friendly Toyota parts man:
The dealership will request the part from Toyota UK, if in stock, delivery is within 2-3 days. If not in stock, Toyota UK contact Toyota Europe (Belgium I think) if in stock, delivery is usually about 5 days. If not in stock then order goes to Toyota Japan. If you state VOR (Vehicle Off Road) then they will put a priority status on your order and delivery is usually 5 days (air freight) or about 10 days by sea (if heavy). Your part should come by air so 5 days applies.
However, non-Toyota garages don't always order parts from dealers. In my early days of Townace ownership, I've ordered parts from a garage with a sub-franchise arrangement with Toyota. They get their parts from an outfit in Luton (forget the name) and although they cost the same (to me, and I've checked) and come in a Toyota branded box, they seem to come the slower route from Japan (10 days for a glowplug relay and 4 weeks for an exhaust manifold for example).
Moral of the story? Tell the garage that you will supply the parts for the job and order them from the dealer yourself quoting VOR or do the job yourself. Of course the downside is that if you order the wrong part number, you are liable and you cannot exchange parts shipped from Japan (unless proven faulty).
- (#2167) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 15 Jul 05 07:20
Forgot to add - obviously the manifold wasn't ordered VOR (although it should have been obvious) or Toyota Japan couldn't immediately supply from stock or the ship came via Cape Horn maybe :-)
- (#2167) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 15 Jul 05 07:25
Ok I've spoken to the mechanic and...
the oil leak is behind the alternator
the oil is 'pouring out' (i.e. not just a residue) of the pipe (joint?)
the toyota parts supplier was asked to fax across a picture of all oil pipes connecting to offside of engine block for vehicle with chassis number etc.
the picture is the same as David's pipes1 (early).
from this he was able to identify 15777C no.1 and 15777B no.2.
So are those pipes definitely coolant (water) pipes. Is the picture on AceAnswers under oil pipes (same as David's pipes2 (late)) incorrectly titled. And does "behind the alternator" give a clue to cause of oil leak if not from this pipe?
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 15 Jul 05 09:54
I have a problem I do not know how to resolve.
The mechanic is adamant that oil is coming out of the pipe at the connection to the engine block.
The Toyota garage is adamant it is an oil pipe.
The AceAnswers shows this pipe under category 'oil pipes'.
And lastly a 'lone voice in the wilderness' (I have a good deal of respect for the 'lone voice in the wilderness'!) is adamant this pipe is coolant.
Can anyone suggest how I can sort this once and for all preferably on Toyota material (parts CD?) that the Toyota garage has access to. If I can get the Toyota garage to agree with David then that should be enough to get the mechanic to look again with the information David has provided.
David previously responded:
An oil leak behind the alt.?
It's either the flexihose to the turbo (likely, not the first one i've heard
of), or one of the oil lines to the alternator vacuum pump. Thay all end up
in the same rough area behind the alternator.
Turbo oil supply hose 90923-02098
Vacuum pump supply hose 90923-02099
Vacuum pump oil return hose 29611-64010
And yes, the two hoses to the oil cooler are without doubt coolant...
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 18 Jul 05 03:48
Well the only way you are going to sort this is to give the mechanic his head. That's why you went to the garage in the first place isn't it?
What you do need to do is be firm with the guy and tell him you have doubts about his diagnosis and that if he has got it wrong then you don't want to get into the business of "Ok we will now try this sir" while you pay for extra unnecessary work and parts and endure further delays while they order even more parts from Japan.
If he is prepared to undertake the work on this basis then fine let him get on with it. If he won't then you may want to reconsider giving him the work.
- (#2167) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 18 Jul 05 05:48
The only way there could possibly be oil in either of the two hoses at the oil cooler is if the cooler has failed, or likewise the head gasket has gone. You's have a murky expansion bottle either way...
- (#2167) David Miller, 18 Jul 05 08:35
Thanks Ian for the focus!
David, thanks for the analysis. I provided the analysis to the garage including partially easing of the connecting hose to see what comes out! I hope to hear from them tomorrow.
I've changed the turbo before....how easy is it to get access to the area behind the alternator from 'on top' i.e. looking down when seat pan is removed?
So....is someone going to remove the picture of oil cooler pipes from the Ace Answers oil pipes directory?
What is this complicated 'joint' at the end of the pipe 15777B no.2?
- (#2167) Peter Dawson, 18 Jul 05 11:47
That alternator might need removed to get good access, I can't recall (it's a long time since I've been in there...)but certainly no harder to deal with than the turbo.
That no.2 pipe has two hose spigots on- one to the cooler, one to the turbo. The other little sticky-out bit is nothing more than a locator- Toyota's way of ensuring you put it on in the right orientation, there's a little depression in the block for it to reside in.
- (#2167) David Miller, 18 Jul 05 13:20
Reply to this
Hi, cant remove broken studs from head in situ, have to remove head, bugger!
Any tips for removal?
What are the torque settings and tightening sequence on a '87 2ltre?
Appreciate your help,
thanks
jon
- (#1699) jon barber, 7 Jun 05 12:52
All covered on the US Toyotavans site.
Click on Ace Answers above and then the link on top right.
- (#1699) Clive (Bristol), 7 Jun 05 16:01
Careful noting of the crank pulley, cam pulley and injection pump pulley marks for correct re-fitting of the belt. If the belt is anywhere near it's replacement date, now is the time to do it. The manual Code RMO25E, gives all the torque values but,is very helpful in it's step by step explanation of the head removal and re-fitting.
The crank pulley sometimes gives a problem on removal and should not be "pulled" with a claw type puller as fracture may result. There are tapped holes in the pulley (for the aircon pulley retention) and these can be used, with a simple puller, to ease the main pulley off.
- (#1699) John Davis (Leics), 7 Jun 05 16:11
i have just ordered the engine manual myself,was first told 8 weeks then 4 weeks now told will be here for the 24 of this month or earlier at a mega expensive cost of £7.24 (+ v.a.t. he said, but i was always told that books etc dont need v.a.t.). The partsassistant seemed suprised when i asked about the manual, he first said they do not do them they only do handbooks, but then when i gave him the part No which i got from yourselves on the ace-answers website he seemed suprised when it came up as "a good part no" when he tried it, thanks for the No as no doubt he would have left it at that if it wasnt for this site (arnt toyota such a wonderfull helpfull group of people when it comes to import cars). a little knollege is trully a wonderfull thing
- (#1699) jason, 7 Jun 05 17:37
Jon has a petrol engine.
- (#1699) Clive (Bristol), 7 Jun 05 18:13
How do we know?
- (#1699) David Miller, 8 Jun 05 02:40
Earlier posting re rough acceleration of a Spacecruiser - missing/broken exhaust manifold studs....
- (#1699) Clive (Bristol), 8 Jun 05 02:53
hi,i would like some help please i have a townace 1999 import turbo deisel with a 2ct engin , head gasket has gone , i was wondering if anyone could help with a few thing that i might need to know !! and what problems that i might come up against . these are :: tourque settings for the head it's selfe , removal of the head bolts what sequence they come off in and to refitted in . i know from reading things in this forum that i have to get the head it selfe tested and the head skimed clean out water ways, will there be anything else that i need to know please help as i miss my little bus .....you can E-mail me direct if need be ....many thanks aid
- (#1699) adrian , 17 Jul 05 05:10
The engine manual, part No RMO25E, available from your local dealer at less than a tenner, gives every bit of information you will need. Don't even think of starting the job without it.
- (#1699) John Davis (Leics), 17 Jul 05 08:34
hi thank's for the reply . i have been in contact with my local toyota dealer , and quoted the part no that you gave me , they said not enough numbers for this part , then they looked on main toyota site and forund it at a LARGE COT OF GET THIS £27.00 nearley fell out of my chair , got in contact with dave coombs on i.o.w £9.98 in p&p be with me tomorrow local dealer thursday / friday so it pays to shop around , many thank's for the help , great site too many thank's ............aid
- (#1699) adrian , 18 Jul 05 03:18
Reply to this
we have recently bled the brakes when renewing the linings.
Symptoms -
Brake loss but they come back again!!
- (#2184) George, 15 Jul 05 07:38
George - stay on the same thread, it keeps the history together for prospective replies.
Now, when you bled the brakes did you bleed the line to the load sensing valve? This is located about midpoint between the back wheels and about half a metre forward of the back axle.
- (#2184) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 15 Jul 05 08:08
I did not bleed the load sensing valve. Did not know it existed. I assume it has a bleed nipple and will give it a go. Any specifics on how I should do it?
- (#2184) George, 15 Jul 05 08:58
When you " stroked" the master cylinder/foot pedal to pump the fluid through, did you allow the master cylinder piston to go right to the bottom of the m/cylinder bore?
Unfortunatly, with these elderly vehicles, that part of the bore is likely to be corroded, ie, in use, the piston and seal only travel a short distance and only polish a short length of the bore. You might have torn the piston seal which, possibly, will give the symptoms you now have. It's best, if you are not using a pressure type bleeding device, to always restrict the piston travel by putting a block under the pedal. However, if the load sensing valve has been overlooked, this is where the residual air might have ended up and it's bleeding could cure the problem
- (#2184) John Davis (Leics), 15 Jul 05 09:49
Have not been able to find the load sensing valve anywhere.
Have bled the brakes again anyway and they are ok at present.
When the problem occurred I had just travelled about 10 miles. Do you think this could have any bearing on the situation?
Thanks for all the help so far - much appreciated
- (#2184) George, 15 Jul 05 11:15
George
the load sensing valve (LSV) is as per my previous post and is high up under the floor. It is on the same run as the back pipes and therefore likely that there is air in the pipe. There is a smaller type bleed nipple (8mm nut). I'll try and find a diagram or pic and mail it to you.
- (#2184) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 18 Jul 05 00:51
Oops - apologies. It's not on the same run but needs bleeding all the same. The EPC doesn't give much clue to the location so I'll crawl underneath tonight and take a pic.
- (#2184) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 18 Jul 05 01:39
Reply to this
Hi - Thanks for the help yesterday. I have been told by a garage that with the TownAce you use the water from the overflow from the radioator for the fluid for the windscreen. I'm not sure I believ them as surely this means that I can't put any cleaner fluid in?
This is all new to me and a totally different world as the Toyota garages I have called don't want to know and get quite 'snotty'.
Can anyone tell me where I should be putting the water for the front washers? Also, can tell me what the last switch on the far right of the dashboard is for by the door...I'm frightened to go near it!
- (#2130) steve, 11 Jul 05 08:20
Tailgate open look above the driver side rear light cluster.
Garage is talking absolute ********s - never would you use anti-freeze as a screen wash!
- (#2130) *, 11 Jul 05 12:19
Brilliant! Can I ask - does this feed the back and front washers, if not where do I find the back washer supply.
Also, any idea on the button by the far right of the dash board?
This is a great site and gives brilliant advice to a complete dyslexic novice like me!
- (#2130) steve, 11 Jul 05 13:29
It feeds both front and back.
- (#2130) Steve, 11 Jul 05 15:50
Where exactly - next to what, what colour, does it look like an origional fitting?
- (#2130) *, 12 Jul 05 04:47
I think I have found out what it is it could be a heater for the wing mirrors, or that is what I have been told!
Or it could be an ejector button for my mother-in-law!
One last question (he says) I have 205/70 R14 95 H tyres and am dues to go on holiday with three adults and three children (yes mother-in-law is going so she will sit in the front next to the button)Can you tell me what the tyre pressure should be for front and rear.
It does not mention it in the book, on the inside of the car it is in Japanese, and the garage I bought it off said it woul ask the owner but never have!
it would be great help if you could - I have looked in the advice colum and may have missed it - sorry!
- (#2130) steve, 12 Jul 05 07:04
Anything up to 40 PSI, depends on ride comfort and tyre wear - lots of points of view in Ace Answers.
- (#2130) *, 12 Jul 05 08:14
should the front be lower than the back? What's the recommended for back and front?
- (#2130) steve, 12 Jul 05 13:17
same pressure all round 35 - 42 psi
- (#2130) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 13 Jul 05 03:31
is that the standard uk tyre pressure gage? I am dyslexic and when i checked my tyres after just buying the Town ace they were all 27 which scared me as I have now made them 35 all round. Have I done the right thing?
- (#2130) steve, 15 Jul 05 12:03
er psi yes that's pretty much a global standard. The sticker on the door states 33 psi or 2.3N as the recommended pressure. The old salts on this site (including me) find that to be far too low and would recommend 35 to 42 psi all round. How hard you run yours is a matter of personal preference but higher pressures reduce the scrubbing of the edges, longer life and slightly better fuel consumption. I would suggest you experiment and see what you prefer. I run mine at 40.
- (#2130) Ian Dunse (Derbs), 18 Jul 05 00:45
Reply to this
I have a leak in the interior of the coolbox which depletes the aircon in about six weeks. I am contemplating bypassing the coolbox but being lazy am looking for the easiest way of doing it. The hard way is the last resort. Can anyone pinpoint the coolbox feed and return pipes and the best break points for me please.
Regards and save driving tew
- (#2190) Terry Withey, 15 Jul 05 11:45
slide under the front on your back, in the middle to the passenger side the A/C pipes go up through the floor - happens also to be joins there so an ideal point to isolate it.
- (#2190) *, 15 Jul 05 15:00
Thanks for the information! You're a star
Regards tew
- (#2190) Terry Withey, 17 Jul 05 15:53
Reply to this
What is the general consensus on the Toyota TownAce (1990 2 lt 4x4)?
Is 130 000 klm a lot?
Do these vehicles need a lot of work?
I’m in the market for one
Any insigh would be great.
- (#2200) jg, 17 Jul 05 00:08
Reply to this
The suspension on my liteace mpv is exactly the same in either sport or normal mode - bouncy and wallowy.
I've never driven another Liteace, so I don't know if this is normal.
Maybe there's something I can get done about it?
- (#2197) Richard 261, 16 Jul 05 09:30
Reply to this
Plain index 23 Jul 2005 Post a New Message